I'm not sure if you meant to say expo there, but exponential will not alter the strength of the brakes. Only end point and/or dual rate will change the strength as far as radio adjustments go.

Any news on the EB48.5?

I have heard there won't ever be an EB48.5 released, but instead they are working on a 2.0 as a major release

Yup - I've heard the same. Have you heard anything about release dates?

no official word, but I heard they were targeting this summer(ish), I'm sure there are lots of variables which can change their plans and when they are closer to release they will make an official announcement on the TEKNO Blog, No sense in setting unrealistic expectations if they have to go back and make a few tweaks which would push back their plans, no doubt they are working hard to get it out ASAP.

Wish they make it a wider buggy buggy like the hb got

Why, It has a great layout as is. I think its a hallmark of Tekno, nice and narrow. No complaints here, from any of my EB48 buggies or truggies. The only thing that perhaps the narrow cars can not take advantage of, is the newer aero bodies of the wider cars.

Yes I know but it's tight fit for esc and lay out

I'm on 50% brake force on esc and 100% on the radio. That's enough on a loose dirt track imo. Lower your shock oil and spring "can't" solve your issue. If you want more brake without sacrifying stability, you should try these things:
*Go up in centre diff (if you have 7k, go to 10k) and go a little down in rear diff (to keep on-power stability).
*Reduce rear droop!

if not enough:
*add rear toein
*Go harder in front spring, go out your shock in front arm and use thicker oil in rear shocks
*Reduce kickup and front toe out

I can see that, but having run Big ESC's like the Hacker Tensoric 8, and the HW XR8 Plus with a long can 690 motor, its not too bad. With a regular sized 550, you can still run a fan behind the motor if needed.

how does a low profile 4s battery affect setup and handling? My batteries are 4 ounces lighter than the normal LiPo?
This is the LiPo
https://www.fantomracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=FAN25190
Thanks!
OR would the heavier (normal) battery be better?
thanks

Hi guys - I have a couple of questions.

So I raced my EB48.4 and ET48.3 this weekend.

EB48.4:
1). I couldn't keep it straight on the straightaway.
2). The nose loved going up on every jump.
3). The rear-end liked to kick out on me on nearly every turn

I set the buggy damn near to Joe Bornhorst - even the springs https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg

The one thing I didn't adjust was my droop. My droop screws are all the way up.

ET48.3
*I have x2 of these... and both blew a diff* - One truck blew a rear diff, the other a front diff. A lot of people were puzzled by this at the track as they haven't seen a Tekno do that before. I'm confused as to what I did wrong on these? When I got the kit I had to contact Tekno because the spider gears were not moving freely on the cross pins what-so-ever. At first, Tekno denied that could even happen, but after sending them a video they sent me replacements for both trucks. I confirmed THEY spun freely and installed them, but yet this? Did I shim incorrectly? Is there something else I'm doing wrong?

I plan to tear them apart tomorrow. I'll update what I find but sheesh... I've never had x2 blown diffs on x2 cars in the same day! I've been building these things since my first Futaba FX-10 - not to say I didn't do something wrong, but unlikely IMO. Any ideas?

You stated that the buggy is close to Joe's setup, what are the differences?

1- There are lot's of things that this could be. You could just need a little more front toe out. Limiting front droop to the correct amount will help. Joe has the wheelbase full long, shortening it will help lock the rear in when you're on power. The setup you listed is running unis, CVs will be more locked in on power and in general have a "stiffer" feel all around.

2- The wheelbase, droop, and use of CVs would affect this. But the biggest thing is just throttle control. Most of the time you should throttle up the face face of the jump and let off right at the end. This should make for a mostly level to slightly nose down in air attitude.

3- When you say it kicks out, is this while you are on or off throttle? His setup should be a little loose off throttle. A lot of pro drivers like the rear to rotate easily off power and square up hard on power.

Another thing about his setup is the lack of steering limiters in the spindle. It's probably best to run the screw with 2 washers and set your end points with those installed. You'll find the steering to be a lot more consistent overall and the car will be easier to drive.

That is strange to blow 2 diffs. I've seen guys blow them on the MT with big tires and overpowered systems but rarely if ever on the race trucks. Is it the internals of the diff that went or the pinion/ring gears? Please share what you find.