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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: billdelong
Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-05-2019, 11:41 PM
  #1651  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I usually set my brake strength to around 70% on the ESC then dial it in with brake dual rate on my radio. It's very track dependent, but I typically I like my brakes to be as strong as possible without locking up. After dialing in your brakes let us know if you still have off power rear traction issues.
thanks, will try this next time. I played with my break expo in my controller but have not adjusted my esc yet.

Originally Posted by nitrousdave View Post
Sounds like it's locking up the tires, definitely turn down the brakes. None of my cars brakes are at 100%.
Thanks, will adjust my esc and try it

Last edited by 1/8 IC Fan; 05-06-2019 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:20 AM
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I'm not sure if you meant to say expo there, but exponential will not alter the strength of the brakes. Only end point and/or dual rate will change the strength as far as radio adjustments go.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave View Post
I'm not sure if you meant to say expo there, but exponential will not alter the strength of the brakes. Only end point and/or dual rate will change the strength as far as radio adjustments go.
thanks will adjust epa then.
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:31 PM
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Any news on the EB48.5?
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Any news on the EB48.5?
I have heard there won't ever be an EB48.5 released, but instead they are working on a 2.0 as a major release
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I have heard there won't ever be an EB48.5 released, but instead they are working on a 2.0 as a major release
Yup - I've heard the same. Have you heard anything about release dates?
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Yup - I've heard the same. Have you heard anything about release dates?
no official word, but I heard they were targeting this summer(ish), I'm sure there are lots of variables which can change their plans and when they are closer to release they will make an official announcement on the TEKNO Blog, No sense in setting unrealistic expectations if they have to go back and make a few tweaks which would push back their plans, no doubt they are working hard to get it out ASAP.
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:11 AM
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Wish they make it a wider buggy buggy like the hb got
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Old 05-12-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMick View Post
Wish they make it a wider buggy buggy like the hb got
Why, It has a great layout as is. I think its a hallmark of Tekno, nice and narrow. No complaints here, from any of my EB48 buggies or truggies. The only thing that perhaps the narrow cars can not take advantage of, is the newer aero bodies of the wider cars.
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:22 PM
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Yes I know but it's tight fit for esc and lay out
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by stinger84 View Post

Driving on a loose dirt, going to a straight away to 180. My rear looses traction when breaking, do you guys set your brake force to less than 100% I already tried to lower my shock oils and spring but still could not perfect the turn unless I really go slow on the straight.
I'm on 50% brake force on esc and 100% on the radio. That's enough on a loose dirt track imo. Lower your shock oil and spring "can't" solve your issue. If you want more brake without sacrifying stability, you should try these things:
*Go up in centre diff (if you have 7k, go to 10k) and go a little down in rear diff (to keep on-power stability).
*Reduce rear droop!

if not enough:
*add rear toein
*Go harder in front spring, go out your shock in front arm and use thicker oil in rear shocks
*Reduce kickup and front toe out
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMick View Post
Yes I know but it's tight fit for esc and lay out
I can see that, but having run Big ESC's like the Hacker Tensoric 8, and the HW XR8 Plus with a long can 690 motor, its not too bad. With a regular sized 550, you can still run a fan behind the motor if needed.



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Old 05-20-2019, 09:05 AM
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how does a low profile 4s battery affect setup and handling? My batteries are 4 ounces lighter than the normal LiPo?
This is the LiPo
https://www.fantomracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=FAN25190
Thanks!
OR would the heavier (normal) battery be better?
thanks
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:30 AM
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Default A few Questions - New to Tekno (Hasn't been Pretty)

Hi guys - I have a couple of questions.

So I raced my EB48.4 and ET48.3 this weekend.

EB48.4:
1). I couldn't keep it straight on the straightaway.
2). The nose loved going up on every jump.
3). The rear-end liked to kick out on me on nearly every turn

I set the buggy damn near to Joe Bornhorst - even the springs https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg

The one thing I didn't adjust was my droop. My droop screws are all the way up.

ET48.3
*I have x2 of these... and both blew a diff* - One truck blew a rear diff, the other a front diff. A lot of people were puzzled by this at the track as they haven't seen a Tekno do that before. I'm confused as to what I did wrong on these? When I got the kit I had to contact Tekno because the spider gears were not moving freely on the cross pins what-so-ever. At first, Tekno denied that could even happen, but after sending them a video they sent me replacements for both trucks. I confirmed THEY spun freely and installed them, but yet this? Did I shim incorrectly? Is there something else I'm doing wrong?

I plan to tear them apart tomorrow. I'll update what I find but sheesh... I've never had x2 blown diffs on x2 cars in the same day! I've been building these things since my first Futaba FX-10 - not to say I didn't do something wrong, but unlikely IMO. Any ideas?
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ExRCRacer View Post
Hi guys - I have a couple of questions.

So I raced my EB48.4 and ET48.3 this weekend.

EB48.4:
1). I couldn't keep it straight on the straightaway.
2). The nose loved going up on every jump.
3). The rear-end liked to kick out on me on nearly every turn

I set the buggy damn near to Joe Bornhorst - even the springs https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg

The one thing I didn't adjust was my droop. My droop screws are all the way up.
You stated that the buggy is close to Joe's setup, what are the differences?

1- There are lot's of things that this could be. You could just need a little more front toe out. Limiting front droop to the correct amount will help. Joe has the wheelbase full long, shortening it will help lock the rear in when you're on power. The setup you listed is running unis, CVs will be more locked in on power and in general have a "stiffer" feel all around.

2- The wheelbase, droop, and use of CVs would affect this. But the biggest thing is just throttle control. Most of the time you should throttle up the face face of the jump and let off right at the end. This should make for a mostly level to slightly nose down in air attitude.

3- When you say it kicks out, is this while you are on or off throttle? His setup should be a little loose off throttle. A lot of pro drivers like the rear to rotate easily off power and square up hard on power.

Another thing about his setup is the lack of steering limiters in the spindle. It's probably best to run the screw with 2 washers and set your end points with those installed. You'll find the steering to be a lot more consistent overall and the car will be easier to drive.

Originally Posted by ExRCRacer View Post
ET48.3
*I have x2 of these... and both blew a diff* - One truck blew a rear diff, the other a front diff. A lot of people were puzzled by this at the track as they haven't seen a Tekno do that before. I'm confused as to what I did wrong on these? When I got the kit I had to contact Tekno because the spider gears were not moving freely on the cross pins what-so-ever. At first, Tekno denied that could even happen, but after sending them a video they sent me replacements for both trucks. I confirmed THEY spun freely and installed them, but yet this? Did I shim incorrectly? Is there something else I'm doing wrong?

I plan to tear them apart tomorrow. I'll update what I find but sheesh... I've never had x2 blown diffs on x2 cars in the same day! I've been building these things since my first Futaba FX-10 - not to say I didn't do something wrong, but unlikely IMO. Any ideas?
That is strange to blow 2 diffs. I've seen guys blow them on the MT with big tires and overpowered systems but rarely if ever on the race trucks. Is it the internals of the diff that went or the pinion/ring gears? Please share what you find.
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