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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-09-2019, 12:33 PM
  #1681  
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Originally Posted by Skaar_rc View Post
On rough track, it is good to tune ur shocks too.
You can try use the 3x2.2 piston on the front and 3x2.1 on the rear. It is much better for rough track.

And if u want got a drill bit set. U can try the wiggins setup. Much better than the 3 holes setup.


For the hole size detail. U can get it from jared wiggins eb48.4 setup sheet
A short update: didn't have time to play with shock holes but I discovered that for some reason the punch / acceleration on the ESC was on the highest setting... Yeah, toning it down did the trick, I can get out of turns without spinning out !!!
:facepalm:
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Totallyosho View Post
A short update: didn't have time to play with shock holes but I discovered that for some reason the punch / acceleration on the ESC was on the highest setting... Yeah, toning it down did the trick, I can get out of turns without spinning out !!!
:facepalm:
That should solve ur issue now. Highest I can go is 4 on HW xr8 combo. Usually it is on 3.
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Skaar_rc View Post
That should solve ur issue now. Highest I can go is 4 on HW xr8 combo. Usually it is on 3.

It was on 9 on a scale from 1 to 9 lol. 3 is perfect.
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:01 PM
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Anyone heard when the new E buggy will be released?
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by silky johnson View Post
Anyone heard when the new E buggy will be released?
End of 2019 early 2020
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:17 PM
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Errr now to decide whether to get another eb48.4 or run my current one into the ground waiting for the new model ����
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
End of 2019 early 2020
Exciting and kinda saddening... I like the .4 a lot... but i went to it from a .2 with some .3 upgrades.... I'm curious of the changes. I saw some pics posted and that just made the curiosity worse.....but back on topic LOL
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:37 AM
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Do Tekno or some else have Gear/Pinion Protection/Cover as Option or so? To this model
I need this bad
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Talon4U2NV View Post
Exciting and kinda saddening... I like the .4 a lot... but i went to it from a .2 with some .3 upgrades.... I'm curious of the changes. I saw some pics posted and that just made the curiosity worse.....but back on topic LOL
Not much is known. My guess is based on a couple of pictures on Facebook; update would likely include the updated front/rear ends of the buggy as seen in pics of the prototype NB48x (narrow rear end; lower tower/traditional size shocks/diff case changes). A recent pic of Jared and Alex's cars shows a wider body; so going to assume a wider chassis layout too.
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:54 PM
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Hi Tekno Reps,

So, back in May, I was corresponding with Thomas and talking to someone else from Tekno support. The crosspins in every single one of my diff assemblies were not cut correctly, thus causing the spider gears to not spin freely. I proved it via a video I sent and got cross pins and spider gears for 6 diff sets (I was building x2 ET48.3's).

I reached out yet again not long afterwards to complain about my EB48.4 having the same exact issue. "No no.. that's impossible you got all those kits like that..." I was told the spider gears will break in and to go ahead and assemble it. Well, I took down my buggy after running a total of 6 quals and 2 mains on it suspecting something was funky, and guess what? Yep - spider gear still binding on crosspins.

Anticipating this, I had ordered crosspins from Tower 2 months ago. I took them out tonight, replaced the ones in the center diff, and wouldn't ya know it??? Spider gears turned freely.

So not what I expected from Tekno and I wasn't thrilled being told, "nah, that can't be right" upon initial AND follow up reports. Hell... I even followed up asking if they saw a trend happening with other people who had recently bought kits - radio silence.
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Old 08-09-2019, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ExRCRacer View Post
Hi Tekno Reps,

So, back in May, I was corresponding with Thomas and talking to someone else from Tekno support. The crosspins in every single one of my diff assemblies were not cut correctly, thus causing the spider gears to not spin freely. I proved it via a video I sent and got cross pins and spider gears for 6 diff sets (I was building x2 ET48.3's).

I reached out yet again not long afterwards to complain about my EB48.4 having the same exact issue. "No no.. that's impossible you got all those kits like that..." I was told the spider gears will break in and to go ahead and assemble it. Well, I took down my buggy after running a total of 6 quals and 2 mains on it suspecting something was funky, and guess what? Yep - spider gear still binding on crosspins.

Anticipating this, I had ordered crosspins from Tower 2 months ago. I took them out tonight, replaced the ones in the center diff, and wouldn't ya know it??? Spider gears turned freely.

So not what I expected from Tekno and I wasn't thrilled being told, "nah, that can't be right" upon initial AND follow up reports. Hell... I even followed up asking if they saw a trend happening with other people who had recently bought kits - radio silence.
Curious if you can share the video of the tight diffs?

Also curious if you can place the new cross pins side by side with the original cross pins?

Do you have a caliper to measure the diameter of the pins?

When you did your break in, did you hold one wheel while running the car at half throttle for about 30 seconds then holding the opposite wheel and repeating this on each corner of the car?

After break in, I would consider flushing the fluids to get rid of all the nasty shavings, I believe this is normal with new builds to help account for any tolerance issues in the manufacturing process.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ExRCRacer View Post
Set screws on every single outdrive on every single one of my vehicles was backed out, or in the progress of backing out. It does not appear I used enough loctite, or none at all. Stupid mistake, but a quick fix!
If you have the problem again, I've personally settled on using red (262, high strength) loctite on the diff pinion output shaft grubscrews as well as motor pinion grubscrew. Cleaning before (I use 100% IPA), and leaving to cure after assembly (before driving) are both important. It's not for everyone but if you check the datasheets from loctite, the blue (242, 222, etc) products have a lower cured strength which then falls to around 30-50% under higher temperatures. They all decrease in strength with temperature but the red (and green eg. 680 even moreso) have higher cured strengths to begin with, so they hold better at higher temps. I've found the diff pinion output can get quite hot due to normal friction. It's nice to have good tools and occasionally a lighter for when they need to come apart again however, hence not for everyone, I just like to build that interface and not have to come back to it again for a long time. I saw in an Adam Drake video he used a mix of red/blue there so it musn't just be me.

Bummer about the spider gear / shaft issues, as billdelong said probably good to check diameter with vernier, if you have access to a digital one you could send them some photos of measurements which are harder to deny.
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:31 AM
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Meh... It's not worth the hassle at this point really. I looked for the video that I had on my phone, then looked in my sent items but couldn't find the stupid thing. This was beyond "breaking in" holding each wheel... if you put the spider gears on these cross-pins, it was difficult getting them off without pliers. The fact this was not just on one ET48.3 kit, not 2 ET48.3 kits, but those and an EB48.4 kit? Give me a break... I could take a micrometer and measure the width of the cross-pins in comparison, but after the nonchalant persona I got from their support after pointing this out; I have minimal interest going through the steps. They did send me new ones and were very responsive, but the interest into this matter didn't seem much to be there.

Oh, and this past weekend, the shock cap on my EB48.4 literally broke in half, NOT EVEN from wrecking --- I was just coming down off a double, not a hard landing, then next thing I see is my shock flapping in the wind and fluid going everywhere. Even the sponsored Tekno guy I run with at the track was like, "WTF? Never seen that before". Maybe I got kits manufactured on a Friday, but I'm not impressed. I bought an MBX8Te and I have yet to have a single issue in comparison to the builds, racing, etc... I bought new caps and intend to rebuild the shocks for the race coming up this weekend, but I'll be sending away for a replacement as a spare from Tekno.

I've passed down the EB & ET to my boys. I purchased a big spare parts inventory and don't feel like losing 50% on everything only a few months old by going all in with Tekno. We'll see if these cars live up to all the hype on how tough they are, but as you can probably imagine, I'm skeptical.
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by uDi_MP7.5 View Post
If you have the problem again, I've personally settled on using red (262, high strength) loctite on the diff pinion output shaft grubscrews as well as motor pinion grubscrew. Cleaning before (I use 100% IPA), and leaving to cure after assembly (before driving) are both important. It's not for everyone but if you check the datasheets from loctite, the blue (242, 222, etc) products have a lower cured strength which then falls to around 30-50% under higher temperatures. They all decrease in strength with temperature but the red (and green eg. 680 even moreso) have higher cured strengths to begin with, so they hold better at higher temps. I've found the diff pinion output can get quite hot due to normal friction. It's nice to have good tools and occasionally a lighter for when they need to come apart again however, hence not for everyone, I just like to build that interface and not have to come back to it again for a long time. I saw in an Adam Drake video he used a mix of red/blue there so it musn't just be me.

Bummer about the spider gear / shaft issues, as billdelong said probably good to check diameter with vernier, if you have access to a digital one you could send them some photos of measurements which are harder to deny.
Good advice. Once AGAIN, the friggin set screw backed out on the front out-drive on my EB48.4. I took it out, cleaned up the threads inside and on the set screw with motor spray, cleaned it, put some rubbing alcohol on it (dried it), then applied red lock-tite. I may not get it off, but screw it. At least I won't DQ again when I'm running 3rd in the B-Main only a few seconds behind 2nd and 1st for a 2 spot bump. --- I've also begun mixing them for a purple lock-tite. Blue just doesn't seem to be enough with these cars anymore.
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Old 08-17-2019, 10:19 AM
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still enjoying my 48.3, anyone know of .4 front c-hubs and spindles being retrofitted to .3 arms, instead of the 3.5mm hingepin and nuts, just threading the 4mm screws through the arm bushings? im using the option universals so both axle bearings are 8x16, its hard to tell from photos if you could fit the inner one, also anyone try the dod rear tower on the older car?
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