649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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01-26-2018, 07:18 AM
#8341
Like HarlowS said. He could just have too much drag brake or is hitting the brake too much. Other things could be how he's hitting the jumps. Letting off too early on the face will do this as well.
Have you tried driving it?
Have you tried driving it?
01-26-2018, 07:21 AM
#8342
That does seem a little strange but we are willing to try anything at this point. Would going to a stiffer spring in the rear that what is in the front have the same effect? I would think the weight in the front increases the preload on the front shocks compared to the rear, allowing it to unload at take off sooner.
01-26-2018, 07:25 AM
#8343
I have tried driving it. If I work the trigger I can get it to fly right for me, but I would like to get it setup a little more so that it will fly better on its own. The jumps are so short that by the time the car starts to respond to throttle input to try and settle it, you are already crashing on the landing.
01-26-2018, 07:35 AM
#8344
180s
Running on slicks, Clay, all my cars are hooked but my b6. 17.5, Running 67mm set up, alum. hubs, laydown, rear end is loose cant get on power with out a square up quickly almost to a hook/washout. Ran it with and with out slipper eliminator, played with diff and washers in rear with no success. Running flat arms on front, around 1520 weight, battery to back. Final race found the screw on slipper was rubbing body after it shifts a little forward after race so made the slipper hole bigger but didn’t test yet if that has been the issue but any other ideas?
01-26-2018, 08:08 AM
#8345
Tech Adept
Running on slicks, Clay, all my cars are hooked but my b6. 17.5, Running 67mm set up, alum. hubs, laydown, rear end is loose cant get on power with out a square up quickly almost to a hook/washout. Ran it with and with out slipper eliminator, played with diff and washers in rear with no success. Running flat arms on front, around 1520 weight, battery to back. Final race found the screw on slipper was rubbing body after it shifts a little forward after race so made the slipper hole bigger but didn’t test yet if that has been the issue but any other ideas?
01-26-2018, 08:11 AM
#8346
Without seeing a video of the car, it's hard to diagnose. The rear could be kicking up because the chassis is bottoming out, which would mean you need to go stiffer in the rear. It could just as well be kicking up because the rear shocks are too stiff or even the front shocks could be too soft. Too much droop/down travel at one end could also cause the problem. Also, what pistons are you using with that oil?
What are the jumps like? Do you have a picture?
Just taking a stab at it:
I would stiffen up the whole car and remove the weight. Since going softer in the rear didn't help very much, it sounds like the front end could be collapsing over the jumps rather than the rear kicking the back end excessively.
What are the jumps like? Do you have a picture?
Just taking a stab at it:
I would stiffen up the whole car and remove the weight. Since going softer in the rear didn't help very much, it sounds like the front end could be collapsing over the jumps rather than the rear kicking the back end excessively.
01-26-2018, 08:13 AM
#8347
Running on slicks, Clay, all my cars are hooked but my b6. 17.5, Running 67mm set up, alum. hubs, laydown, rear end is loose cant get on power with out a square up quickly almost to a hook/washout. Ran it with and with out slipper eliminator, played with diff and washers in rear with no success. Running flat arms on front, around 1520 weight, battery to back. Final race found the screw on slipper was rubbing body after it shifts a little forward after race so made the slipper hole bigger but didn’t test yet if that has been the issue but any other ideas?
01-26-2018, 08:34 AM
#8348
Had the same issue with some at our club. They were bottoming out the rear on the jump causing the buggy to kick the rear up. I run my ride height at 17 front and rear. Jumps great. Very little T/B input needed. Indoor high bite carpet.
Might want to play with the ride height. Take out the rear weight. Is your battery all the way forward? Mine is. I feel the rear is bottoming out.
Might want to play with the ride height. Take out the rear weight. Is your battery all the way forward? Mine is. I feel the rear is bottoming out.
I NEED HELP!! I have been trying to help another racer at our track try to figure out a handling issue. He is running a B6 that was built to the manual setup on a short indoor carpet off-road track. The problem he is having is that no matter how we mess with the setup, we can not get it to stop kicking the rear end up in the air dropping the nose way down. We have been playing with shocks, both springs and oil, we have added weight to the rear end, and a few other things. No matter what we do we can't get it to fly level and if we get it somewhat close, then the rear is too soft and bounces the chassis off the floor and still kicks the rear up on landing. I know the jumps are not perfect but the Losi guys do not seem to have the same issue.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
01-26-2018, 09:44 AM
#8349
I NEED HELP!! I have been trying to help another racer at our track try to figure out a handling issue. He is running a B6 that was built to the manual setup on a short indoor carpet off-road track. The problem he is having is that no matter how we mess with the setup, we can not get it to stop kicking the rear end up in the air dropping the nose way down. We have been playing with shocks, both springs and oil, we have added weight to the rear end, and a few other things. No matter what we do we can't get it to fly level and if we get it somewhat close, then the rear is too soft and bounces the chassis off the floor and still kicks the rear up on landing. I know the jumps are not perfect but the Losi guys do not seem to have the same issue.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
01-26-2018, 09:44 AM
#8350
Tech Apprentice
I NEED HELP!! I have been trying to help another racer at our track try to figure out a handling issue. He is running a B6 that was built to the manual setup on a short indoor carpet off-road track. The problem he is having is that no matter how we mess with the setup, we can not get it to stop kicking the rear end up in the air dropping the nose way down. We have been playing with shocks, both springs and oil, we have added weight to the rear end, and a few other things. No matter what we do we can't get it to fly level and if we get it somewhat close, then the rear is too soft and bounces the chassis off the floor and still kicks the rear up on landing. I know the jumps are not perfect but the Losi guys do not seem to have the same issue.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
Any tips you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Current setup at last nights run was 37.5 in front with Blue spring and 30 in rear with green springs. Also added 2oz of weight at rear of chassis in front of arms. Proline Wedge front and Pyramid rears.
try the droop,id suggest reducing it at the back(make sure you have the short eyelet on the rear shocks)
01-26-2018, 10:47 AM
#8351
Tech Regular
I'd also go back to at least kit springs...orange in front, blue in the back. Green is way too soft for carpet/turf. I've never gone softer than blue in the rear, and sometimes even opt to go stiffer (yellow). Same in the front, I'm currently running purple and never drop below orange. I run 30 or 32.5 oil in the rear. I'd say the rear is WAY under sprung. Also, shouldn't need weight in the rear.
https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...hina_Astro.pdf
01-26-2018, 11:14 AM
#8353
Tech Regular
01-26-2018, 11:49 AM
#8355
Tech Regular