649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-08-2017, 12:03 PM
#7936
I talked to Danny at SMC mid week and he said they should be in any time so wait will not be long.
12-08-2017, 01:16 PM
#7939
Just started putting the b6d kit together and I notice the front arms are really tight and are not freely moving, should I or is it ok to sand down some of the arms?
12-08-2017, 01:45 PM
#7941
That track had huge jumps compared to a normal EOS layout, it was also over a year ago and setups have changed quite a bit. The car lands just fine at 15mm and picks up a lot of corner speed. Its all a balance of travel vs corner speed.
Phil it depends on the springs, cups and axle height but 17 or 18 should be easy with AE parts and shorter tires like a cactus or minidart. Where are your axles?
Phil it depends on the springs, cups and axle height but 17 or 18 should be easy with AE parts and shorter tires like a cactus or minidart. Where are your axles?
12-08-2017, 02:27 PM
#7943
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Depends on where the binding is. I assembled my car fully. Then basically reamed the arms inner hinge pin holes. This “freed” my car up. The parts will usually seat themselves in a run or two. But I have always done a bench break in for the kit and all spares. This way the parts are “race ready” if I manage to need them.
12-08-2017, 02:42 PM
#7944
Tech Regular
So here’s a puzzle for you all.
I have associated shocks on a B64 but hope to spread this about to get best brain cells working upon it.
Ive taken my shocks apart and mixed up the caps and now, when putting them back together, only one of four lines up with the groove Ive made on the shock collar. How come?
Ive taken my shocks apart and mixed up the caps and now, when putting them back together, only one of four lines up with the groove Ive made on the shock collar. How come?
12-08-2017, 04:15 PM
#7946
12-09-2017, 07:24 AM
#7948
That goes for all kits. Guys don't allow new kits to breakin. I see guys making changes on the first run.
12-11-2017, 03:04 AM
#7949
I finally found the setup for my home track and good lord is it fun! This is my first year racing and I’m learning a ton in a short time that I hope to retain for the long haul. Lol. I have been fighting to keep the rear under the car mid to exit of the turn and thought the proper fix was to lay the rear shocks in on the tower but I was dead wrong. It was suggested that I stand them straight up on the tower and as soon as I did it was night and day. We have a 120’ straight on the track and I was able to be full wood on my 10.5 by 10’ out of the turn at the beginning. The car went from drifting around the turn at the top of the straight with minimal throttle to being able to actually accelerate and hold the line the entire way through the turn and down the straight. It was locked in enough that the car would hover the front tires a good way down the straight and I wouldn’t have to lift because I was lined up for the end turn already. Again, this is my first year racing so I was really happy to take 1st in A1 of 2wd mod and 2nd in A2 for a 2nd over all at my first ROAR event.
