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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-23-2017, 07:32 AM   #7786
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Natural progression they will update the car. Most all of us will have 99% of the upgrades on a updated kit though. Money for rc companies is in the parts. Release the upgraded parts people will buy them. When the demand for upgraded part slows put them in a updated kit...... and people will still buy the updated car even though they have all the upgrades. Win/win for AE. AE's business model has been pretty good over the years.
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Old 11-23-2017, 06:55 PM   #7787
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Yeah, though the response felt genuine, but who knows. I'm in the 'doubtful' camp. The B6 was released because there was a huge shifting point in 2WD buggies, and I'm pretty sure AE didn't want to get left behind again like with the B4 platform when everybody else already had mid motor cars.

Of course there have been improvements over the last 2 years but do they warrant a new car? A B6.1 perhaps, though definitely not a B7.
yeah, I dont see a major platform change. 6.1 sounds about right
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:29 AM   #7788
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yeah, I dont see a major platform change. 6.1 sounds about right
We would be be on a B5 had carpet not gained so much popularity and the evolution of the laydown transmission. I agree next car will still be a 6 version which is just fine at this point.
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:34 AM   #7789
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Lots of B6 hopups on Amain's black friday sale, FYI...
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:14 AM   #7790
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you guys just saved me some cash... was ready to pull the trigger on a B6M with the BF deal but I will wait for the new 6.1... makes perfect sense
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:43 AM   #7791
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I have seen a b5m laydown running against b6s and 4.0s, and wasn't too impressed. You are better off selling the b5m and using that money towards a b6.
2015 ifmar world champion "B5m laydown" Rivkin in 2017 a no show in A main, to the guy wanting to convert his b5m to laydown go for it, yz2 or b6 are the cheapest options if you don't mind drilling your chassis
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:02 PM   #7792
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My B6 video

https://youtu.be/I7RtSE7DWHU
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Old 11-24-2017, 01:03 PM   #7793
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Well said Frankf. I have been running my B6 with the lay down on dirt. Really loose dirt. No brass in the rear. Just shock setup and the pills in the back is all that’s needed. None of the updated driveshafts aka 67mm, no brass c or d mount just aluminum... Love this buggy. Is a b5m still capable, absolutely! With or without the lay down, the difference is if the lay down cars are winning, then it would take a lay down b5m to compete or even a B6. But even then it’s splliting hairs as the cars can be set up to be very competitive either way.
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Old 11-24-2017, 10:19 PM   #7794
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So, I’m sure this has been asked before. But, I don’t know how to navigate this forum well. Is there an updated version of the B6 going to be released? I’m wondering because I want to do an overhaul on my buggy. Or, if they release an updated version, just buying a whole new one.
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:23 PM   #7795
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B5M kicks our B6 arse here at Hot Rod Hobbies Raceway .... just saying.

Track is real dirt with dust and stones.
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:52 AM   #7796
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So I got a new b6d and im building it. I got the the diff install and maybe im just reading into the instructions wrong but which side does the head of the diff bolt go on? The spur side or opposite the spur side?
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:04 AM   #7797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FPMX772 View Post
So I got a new b6d and im building it. I got the the diff install and maybe im just reading into the instructions wrong but which side does the head of the diff bolt go on? The spur side or opposite the spur side?
Does not matter. What matters is consistancy in how you build it so you always remember which side its on.
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Old 11-25-2017, 01:16 PM   #7798
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Originally Posted by FPMX772 View Post
So I got a new b6d and im building it. I got the the diff install and maybe im just reading into the instructions wrong but which side does the head of the diff bolt go on? The spur side or opposite the spur side?
spur side
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Old 11-25-2017, 01:49 PM   #7799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FPMX772 View Post
So I got a new b6d and im building it. I got the the diff install and maybe im just reading into the instructions wrong but which side does the head of the diff bolt go on? The spur side or opposite the spur side?
Always the “passenger” side of the car. See the front page faq
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Old 11-25-2017, 02:17 PM   #7800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Always the “passenger” side of the car. See the front page faq
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.


I am gonna go with Kurt on this and say it does not matter, can someone offer any compelling reason that needs to be on the spur gear side?
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