649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-04-2017, 11:11 AM
#7577
On my B6 setup for turf/carpet, I have worn out the upper shock bushings (twice) AND the holes in the plastic shock caps (once) during their first four months of use. So, switching to AE aluminum caps and aftermarket bushings.
No such quick wear issues with the shock bushings on my car setup for clay track racing.
No such quick wear issues with the shock bushings on my car setup for clay track racing.
11-04-2017, 11:33 AM
#7578
11-04-2017, 03:23 PM
#7580
Or were you talking about the motor not being able to provide enough power to crate the change?
11-05-2017, 08:10 AM
#7581
Tech Adept
I want to run my first race in a few weeks (mod with b6 on indoor astro. Grip level 7~8/10)
I have been running a 90% stock setup until now and I'm about 50 gram underweight with my current electronics. What would be the optimal way to gain these 50+ grams? Thanks
I have been running a 90% stock setup until now and I'm about 50 gram underweight with my current electronics. What would be the optimal way to gain these 50+ grams? Thanks
11-05-2017, 10:31 AM
#7582
Tech Adept
I would recommend you looking at Cavs EOS setup on AE's site at the bottom of the setup sheets. I use this on carpet and it is very good. Should also work for astro.
11-05-2017, 10:41 AM
#7583
I would add the steel servo and electronic weights and the aluminum front bulkhead.
11-05-2017, 08:33 PM
#7584
The change in rotation comes from inertia created by the tires stopping or speeding up. There could be some of the same effect from the motor if you’re running a 4 gear trans, but it would only be supplemental to that created by the tires.
Or were you talking about the motor not being able to provide enough power to crate the change?
Or were you talking about the motor not being able to provide enough power to crate the change?
Totally agree with it being the slowing/speeding of the rear tires (2WD) that brings the nose down/up.
Many thanks.
11-06-2017, 03:17 AM
#7585
Had my first race of our winter racing league Saturday, with my Club racer it is box stock no upgrades or changes 100% box setup other than the limiters in the shocks, and running the manual recommended gearing which I might change before next race. The handling to me at least for only being my second time racing a buggy and not a SCT seems great I can put it anywhere on the track I want, and although I am not as fast as some of the more serious guys who have been doing this class for years and spend tons on motors and light weight parts and batteries, I am happy with it for now till I get more use to it. My only complaint is it seems to jump very inconstant, there was a medium size double right in front of the drivers stand that had a little roller right in front of it, so it was pretty easy to hit it the same spot every time. I played with battery placement front and rear and never changed anything. My brother has the B6D and I had my battery same place as his, kind of confusing.
11-06-2017, 07:20 AM
#7587
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Looks like MIP is coming out with a 67mm driveshaft version of the pucks system for ball diff. The video on their website says you will need the new Associated 67mm rear hub and drive axle to accommodate the new 67mm shaft setup. From my understanding, people were already running 67mm steel drive shafts with either the Schelle hub designed specifically for 67mm shafts, or people were running the b5 hubs with different plastic inserts for the inner bearing. Both of which, to my knowledge, were with the stock axles.
Can anyone explain to me why the 67mm pucks kit will not work with the Schelle hubs and stock axles or the bearing inserts with stock axles?
Edit: Should have specified that I'm talking about the aluminum b5 hubs. I think the stock plastic hub is the same on b5/b6 and obviously doesn't have the plastic bearing insert.
Can anyone explain to me why the 67mm pucks kit will not work with the Schelle hubs and stock axles or the bearing inserts with stock axles?
Edit: Should have specified that I'm talking about the aluminum b5 hubs. I think the stock plastic hub is the same on b5/b6 and obviously doesn't have the plastic bearing insert.
Last edited by mx836; 11-06-2017 at 07:48 AM.
11-06-2017, 09:38 AM
#7588
So, I tried the 67mm in practice with slicks and as expected i was doing donuts and drifting. Swapped to treads and the car was fine, but not great. Ran slicks in Q1 and Q2, and the rear traction seemed a tad higher than in the past, but as always dust comes up 3/4 the way into the race and rear traction dropped off. So in the main I ran 1/2 gone treads.....Way too much rear grip and lost 1 second per lap.
Summery, If i were to run treads all the time, I would need to dial out some of the rear grip the 67mm added. My daughters car without the the 67mm definitely corners better on treads. The 67mm is a decent upgrade, but not magical. If you car is doing donuts and drifting, they will do very little to help you
11-06-2017, 04:27 PM
#7590
What roll centers are you using in back? I have had luck with the greens on my stock car on high grip carpet but the back end is quite different than the normal b6. Also the gearbox shim helps to keep the rear flatter under power.
C block is .5 up and out
D block is .5 down
+1 hub height
# 1 inner camber link with 1mm spacer
C hole up on hub
C block is .5 up and out
D block is .5 down
+1 hub height
# 1 inner camber link with 1mm spacer
C hole up on hub
Currently I am running:
RP orange springs f/r
1.6f/1.7r
37.5w/32.5r
1mm limiter f/ 0mm limiter r
22mm stroke f/ 28mm stroke r
C block is 1 up and out
D block is .5 down
+2 hub height (schelle -2 hubs)
# 2 middle camber link with 1mm spacer
inside hole on schelle -2 hubs no spacers
White rear swaybar
2mm gearbox shims
Track is high grip grey carpet. Thanks for looking at this.