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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 06-22-2017, 12:47 PM
  #6796  
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If you use a ball diff instead of the gear diff on the b6 which side would you have dff the adjustment screw head?? or does it not matter???
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:16 PM
  #6797  
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Right side.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:25 PM
  #6798  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I believe you generally go for roughly a 5:1 FDR for 13.5. But you should really ask locals for gearing advice. For these stock classes, gearing can vary quite a bit from track to track in my experience.
Apparently it's not blinky either so timing will be allowed. Now I have no idea what to do with it. Lol
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:45 PM
  #6799  
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Originally Posted by psycho02
Apparently it's not blinky either so timing will be allowed. Now I have no idea what to do with it. Lol
That's no biggie, doesn't mean you need to fuss with boost settings as well. You can either gear it as low as possible and add zero timing (boost) or go more conservative and add some ESC timing if you feel you lack straight away speed. I generally avoid adding ESC boost even in open classes. I just stick with pinion changes
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
That's no biggie, doesn't mean you need to fuss with boost settings as well. You can either gear it as low as possible and add zero timing (boost) or go more conservative and add some ESC timing if you feel you lack straight away speed. I generally avoid adding ESC boost even in open classes. I just stick with pinion changes

Also it's been like 10 plus years. Remind me how to find final drive ratio.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by psycho02
Also it's been like 10 plus years. Remind me how to find final drive ratio.
I don't know the formula off the top of my head but I usually use the TQ Racing gear calculator or I look for a gear chart similar to this one from PetitRC. This should help you out a bit.

Team Associated B6 & B6D - Charts - Gear Ratio & Arm Mount Inserts
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:29 PM
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I just coped a b6 and the build is almost done! excited to run 2w buggy on clay again. its been almost 2 years. some good material in this thread and a great wiki too!
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:15 PM
  #6803  
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Originally Posted by psycho02
Also it's been like 10 plus years. Remind me how to find final drive ratio.
spur / pinion x 2.6(internal gear ratio for Ae). The gearing chart in the manual has always served me pretty well +/- 1 tooth.
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:35 PM
  #6804  
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing
If you use a ball diff instead of the gear diff on the b6 which side would you have dff the adjustment screw head?? or does it not matter???
Whichever side is easier for you to adjust from.
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Old 06-22-2017, 07:16 PM
  #6805  
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Ratio Calc is an awesome, free app for keeping track of hearing.
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:01 AM
  #6806  
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looking for shims for the rear inboard hinge pins to remove some slop. curious if anyone found some that fit, those hinge pins are larger dia. than the other six on the car
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:34 AM
  #6807  
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I have a question, I'm having a slight issue with my car hooking coming out of the corner, the front end grabs and the rear end swings around. My track a Med grip and I'm running the lay-down tranny with a exotek battery brace.

setup
front oil 30, white spring 1 limiter
1.5 mm under ball stud
middle on tower, outside on arm

rear
shocks are on the rear of buggy
27.5 oil, green spring 0 limiters
shocks middle tower, in on the arm
3.5/1 toe with it .5 in and center
1mm under ball stud
hub are in the stock settings
25 gram C

Im running out of idea . I am the fast buggy there and win all the time just looking to get the car better. im not sure if more anti squat will help this or make it worse.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:42 AM
  #6808  
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Originally Posted by lexusbest
Broke my b6 stock wing on the first race. I wanted to try jconcepts aero s-type wing out so i bought a couple of this. Im running a bumpy high grip carpet track, what wing do you use?
If someone wants to say something...
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:05 AM
  #6809  
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Originally Posted by lexusbest
If someone wants to say something...
I use the aero wing.
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:22 AM
  #6810  
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Originally Posted by TC5Driven
I ran into the same problem a few months ago. I just drilled it out by starting with a small drill bit and going up on drill size until the screw head pops off. If all else fails just drill the heck out of it and replace the front ball stud mount.
This worked. JB Weld didn't work. I was able to save the top plate but the front ball stud mount is toast (broken screw in there). bummer, but only $5 part. oh well.
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