649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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04-30-2017, 09:36 AM
#6496
04-30-2017, 09:39 AM
#6497
Decided to get back into the hobby so bought a B6D just before Christmas. After the longest build ever I think it's ready to go start practicing 
04-30-2017, 09:58 AM
#6498
Anyone try any of the pre-cut TLR wings (particularly the one with the cut-outs for rear-mounted shocks)?
We have a jump at my track that is just barely do-able (for me) in 17.5, and I'm eating wings for breakfast. Don't get me wrong, I've gotten really good - and I mean REALLY GOOD - at cutting them out, with all the practice I've had... but if the pre-cuts are compatible, I wouldn't mind stocking up.
Thanks!
We have a jump at my track that is just barely do-able (for me) in 17.5, and I'm eating wings for breakfast. Don't get me wrong, I've gotten really good - and I mean REALLY GOOD - at cutting them out, with all the practice I've had... but if the pre-cuts are compatible, I wouldn't mind stocking up.
Thanks!
04-30-2017, 10:36 AM
#6499
Tech Regular
Do you mean no need for the added weight of the brass c&d blocks? Or do you mean no need for the brass bulkhead? I already have the alum bulk and c&d. But thought the brass bulk would be a good upgrade. How do you like the brass bulk with the alum c&d setup? Not nose heavy?
04-30-2017, 11:12 AM
#6500
Tech Regular
So, built the B6D up, and finally got some electronics in it. Using this mostly as a practice car, but I might do a few races just because....Been mostly a carpet off road racer the past couple of years and looking forward to getting a car dirty. Here's a couple pics of the wiring. I measured the esc wires when I had the stand up transmission installed and decided to leave them long with the lay down installed just in case I ever need to go back.
04-30-2017, 02:24 PM
#6502
Schelle's gearbox shims come with directions, and those directions just say to install the shims and add 2mm of droop. I also got the Schelle motor plate to drop the motor.
I thought the point of this mod was to change the roll center, but shimming the gearbox alone won't do that, you'd also have to shim the C/D blocks and the rear camber mount. Seems the only benefit to this change is that it corrects the angle of the bones for those of us with a lower ride height?
04-30-2017, 04:02 PM
#6503
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Can you elaborate?
Schelle's gearbox shims come with directions, and those directions just say to install the shims and add 2mm of droop. I also got the Schelle motor plate to drop the motor.
I thought the point of this mod was to change the roll center, but shimming the gearbox alone won't do that, you'd also have to shim the C/D blocks and the rear camber mount. Seems the only benefit to this change is that it corrects the angle of the bones for those of us with a lower ride height?
Schelle's gearbox shims come with directions, and those directions just say to install the shims and add 2mm of droop. I also got the Schelle motor plate to drop the motor.
I thought the point of this mod was to change the roll center, but shimming the gearbox alone won't do that, you'd also have to shim the C/D blocks and the rear camber mount. Seems the only benefit to this change is that it corrects the angle of the bones for those of us with a lower ride height?
04-30-2017, 04:43 PM
#6504
they used 2mm aluminum washers on these set ups, long rear shock eyelets
Team Associated B6 - Spencer Rivkin - Buggy Asia Madness - Shanghai - 31.03-02.04.2017
i'm rather amazed how soft they went on springs for a smooth hi-trac astro
Team Associated B6 - Spencer Rivkin - Buggy Asia Madness - Shanghai - 31.03-02.04.2017
i'm rather amazed how soft they went on springs for a smooth hi-trac astro
04-30-2017, 06:04 PM
#6505
they used 2mm aluminum washers on these set ups, long rear shock eyelets
Team Associated B6 - Spencer Rivkin - Buggy Asia Madness - Shanghai - 31.03-02.04.2017
i'm rather amazed how soft they went on springs for a smooth hi-trac astro
Team Associated B6 - Spencer Rivkin - Buggy Asia Madness - Shanghai - 31.03-02.04.2017
i'm rather amazed how soft they went on springs for a smooth hi-trac astro
04-30-2017, 06:33 PM
#6506
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
I know they are different but I've never looked at that site and I just didn't know if they make em for gullwing. But I totally forgot I was running JC rear tower and revolution design front. I wonder if those protectors would fit those towers. I didn't glue my towers only cause I hate the way they come out looking when I do that. Does anyone know what I can use or how to apply superglue or tire glue so it doesn't dry white and shitty. I've seen some guys that come out shiny or glossy and they look good but I've never been able to get it to look like that.
04-30-2017, 08:20 PM
#6508
Tech Regular
Well I had a new one tonight. Putting the final touches on the new B6D so I thought I's set the slipper & diff. Tightened the diff screw and heard/felt a pop. Diff will not tighten at all now. Opened up and found the diff adjustment screw had broken. My money would have been on the plastic nut stripping but the screw broke clean at the threads for the nut. Luckily I had the ball diff from my T5M. Part numbers for the screw are the same so I was able to make it work. Anyone else had that happen? I wasn't putting that much pressure on it.
04-30-2017, 08:36 PM
#6509
Well I had a new one tonight. Putting the final touches on the new B6D so I thought I's set the slipper & diff. Tightened the diff screw and heard/felt a pop. Diff will not tighten at all now. Opened up and found the diff adjustment screw had broken. My money would have been on the plastic nut stripping but the screw broke clean at the threads for the nut. Luckily I had the ball diff from my T5M. Part numbers for the screw are the same so I was able to make it work. Anyone else had that happen? I wasn't putting that much pressure on it.
04-30-2017, 09:03 PM
#6510
Tech Regular