649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-17-2016, 12:41 PM
#4816
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
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Ball diff, front arms and tower are basically it. And the stand up 3 or gear 4 tranny stuff if you don't want to run the lay down you have.
12-17-2016, 03:02 PM
#4817
I always see turnbuckles in mm lentgh,From the picture that looks way longer then ny turnbuckle ive ever seen, maybe just go buy threaded rod frm local hobby shop or home depot & make your own..
EDIT, found this with quick google search for 90mm turnbuckle
https://superstitionhobbies.com/prod...KW9hoCkaDw_wcB
ebay..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-5x9...oAAOSwa-dWp69N
EDIT, found this with quick google search for 90mm turnbuckle
https://superstitionhobbies.com/prod...KW9hoCkaDw_wcB
ebay..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-5x9...oAAOSwa-dWp69N
It is a B6 and it's laydown....but I don't really see any difference running a laydown or stand up at my track. It's a small track so you can't really feel the difference.
Last edited by Phillip F; 12-17-2016 at 03:21 PM.
12-17-2016, 06:02 PM
#4820
I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
12-17-2016, 07:03 PM
#4822
I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
12-17-2016, 08:43 PM
#4824
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
I personally run it fanless with a 17.5 in blinky class, and have found it to be really, really good.
One thing to keep in mind, if you're going to be running 17.5, is that weight might be more important than if you were running mod. I have a Sanwa RX-481 and the XR10 Stock Spec, Pucks, and no titanium anything, and I'm underweight without a chassis protector!
12-18-2016, 06:22 AM
#4825
I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
If you want to get smooth with a 17.5 before other motors, the Green Eco power from Amain is a $60 motor with a lot of bang for the buck
12-18-2016, 06:28 AM
#4826
Tech Rookie
Would you be able to comment more on this? Reason I ask is I'm helping a friend get his new b6d built, and he ordered the new xr10 stock spec and a 10.5 motor. Reading the HW specs, that ESC is only good down to 10.5 in touring. A little worried for him. As a new driver, was thinking of turning his punch and EPA down to help, plus the fan. Your post gives me hope he might be ok 😀
12-18-2016, 10:16 AM
#4827
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
12-18-2016, 10:51 AM
#4828
Tech Regular
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
12-18-2016, 10:55 AM
#4829
Tech Regular
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
12-18-2016, 11:12 AM
#4830
Thats interesting. Last time I used UPS, they charged me $35 to fill out the import. I found a stock spec 3.1 on Amazon and picked that up to get me going.