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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-21-2016, 09:38 AM   #1516
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Originally Posted by Rc4life1978 View Post
Also I have a eb48.2. And a rc8b3e. I'm thinking of running my tekno instead but one question. Is the .2 that much different than the eb48.3. Should I sell and get the .3. What r the major differences
The .2 is good, but the .3 is better. The suspension is a world of difference. You can get the upgrade kit here http://fiercercsolutions.com/Tekno-E...kit-FRC010.htm that will give you all the performance parts to make your .2 handle like a .3. But that kit lacks the updated blocks for full adjust ability, which you can also get from Fierce.

And then you have the convenience item of the split center diff, which is a must for maintenance reasons. And you also have the .3 trailing spindles. It's debatable if these are needed though.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:24 PM   #1517
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
*****Posted this in the EB48SL thread, but it doesn't get near as much traffic as this thread, so figured I'd post it here as well, one additional comment for this thread, I wish my EB48.3 was a little lighter, be nice if it was a bit closer to 3200g*****

I weighed my buggies and just thought you guys might find it interesting.

EB48SL - HW XERUN pro SCT esc, Tekin 3300kv, 6500mah 3s vant lipo, DS1015 servo
EB48.3 - Tekin RX8G2, Tekin 2050kv T8i, Vant 6500mah 4s lipo, DS1015 servo

I'm interested in trying to get the SL up to 3200g, i'm switching to a Tekin Pro 4 HD 3000kv motor that will add 28g, so I think I'm down to needing 116g to reach 3200g. Any recommendations on what to use to add 116g?

Thanks.

Can use the typical 1/10 weight kits for battery trays stick on weights... pretty easy to add weight just put it where you like it best
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Old 04-22-2016, 02:58 AM   #1518
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I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:36 AM   #1519
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My first new buggy =)
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:01 AM   #1520
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks
Well used bladders are hard to seal correctly as they have expanded. Also, with no rebound, it is possible that you're sucking enough to pull the bladder out of perfect seal when at full shock length. The tighter you get the cap when there isn't oil between the bladder and cap, the less likely you are to have issues. If you're going to re-use bladders, the only way that generally works is the method as shown by Lutz in the Tekno shock video.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 04-23-2016, 03:20 PM   #1521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
I had an issue the other day with my eb48.3 on race day.
The bladder on the rear right hand side kept "popping out" thus emptying the oil completely after a short while.
It did this a few times and I couldn't explain why. I properly bleed it when I assembled it with no rebound whatsoever. I even managed to feel the bladder pop out of it's place when testing the shock still in my hands by pushing up and down fast. When I was slow I could go full stroke easily and when I push harder suddenly it when plop and oil was pouring on the side hole. I redid it again and so far no problem but I can figure what went wrong. Any ideas ?

Thanks
Could be the bladder is old, but also with the .3 buggies and truggies, don't push the shock shaft in all the way when installing the cap. I leave about 10mm of the shaft out on the front and about 15mm out on the rear.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:34 AM   #1522
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Originally Posted by tekno951 View Post
anyone know who has the proline eb48 phantom bodies in stock?
Proline discontinued the Phantom body I don't know why!!!! I found one and I am planning on making some copy's of it.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:44 AM   #1523
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thanks for all the tips on the shock bladders . I'll try the trick not to fully compress them when assembly. The whole kit is still pretty new. The bladders had maybe 3hours of runtime max total (two races a a couple of training).
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:39 AM   #1524
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Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:57 AM   #1525
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Originally Posted by doctorfeelgood5 View Post
Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?
That's correct.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:58 AM   #1526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorfeelgood5 View Post
Quick question likely answered somewhere but I couldn't find it:

I upgraded my EB48.2 to the .3 (mostly) and I also have a 410.3 Even thought the front and rear shocks are slightly different lengths between these two vehicles, they use the same springs right?
Correct...different overall shock lengths, but springs are the same.

(the rear bodies and shafts on the SCT are the same as the front on the buggy. Keep appropriate springs though.) Now you have spare shocks for the front of the SCT since you did the upgrade on the buggy.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:20 PM   #1527
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Just bought the Eb 48.3 kit with the Tekin 1/8 RX8 Gen2 Brushless System 4030 1900kV,

Is there a lot of setup adjustments I need to make to the esc? I don't have the program card
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:28 PM   #1528
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Just bought the Eb 48.3 kit with the Tekin 1/8 RX8 Gen2 Brushless System 4030 1900kV,

Is there a lot of setup adjustments I need to make to the esc? I don't have the program card
Not really. I usually set my current limited to around 70 which I think you can do without having the Hotwire programmer. Make sure the low volt cutoff is set to 4s, and that you don't have any timing added.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:07 PM   #1529
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I'm having a problem with one of my rear shocks and i haven't been able to figure it out yet. The bladder keeps getting dislodged and oil comes out the breather hole. I tried a new bladder thinking that would help because the old one was a little swelled up. It did not help.
I'm not running shock boots but neither are any of my other teknos and i am not having that problem with them or the other shocks on this buggy.

wow didnt see this a few posts up. I'll try this
Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Well used bladders are hard to seal correctly as they have expanded. Also, with no rebound, it is possible that you're sucking enough to pull the bladder out of perfect seal when at full shock length. The tighter you get the cap when there isn't oil between the bladder and cap, the less likely you are to have issues. If you're going to re-use bladders, the only way that generally works is the method as shown by Lutz in the Tekno shock video.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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EB48.3- Tekin 1350kv Graupner 180r SMC 3600 6s
ET48.3- Tekin 1400kv Graupner 180r SMC 4300 6s
MT48.3- Castle 2200kv MM2 SMC 4300 6s
X-Maxx- Velineon 1600kv HW Max6 SPC 5600 3s(x2)
SMT10 Grave Digger- Tekin 8.5t MMX SMC 4300 3s

Last edited by SLW-SVT; 04-25-2016 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:18 AM   #1530
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Who here run uni joints in the steering on dusty lose bump track in there buggy and is it worth it
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