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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-20-2016, 10:02 AM
  #2266  
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That's a great deal... shame I just bought mine last month from tower!


I'll try strapping them down a bit looser and see if that fixes the problem. They weren't that tight to begin with, so ill leave just a little bit of wiggle room.

What do you guys recommend for cleaning? I have done multiple searches and "simple green" "simple green" etc, but i wonder if that weakened my strap too? Also after a day at the track my car is squeakier than a mouse.. >< So any recommendations for after race cleaning/keeping this beast in tip top shape would be appreciated. [: Having the arms squeak, and the bearings feel like trash isn't appealing.

Starting to get the hang of driving my EB better, been sticking it out with Joe's SNats setup, the main issues I was having at first were due to the track being too dusty. So in the morning/evening the car handles amazing, but 1-5pm, if we don't water the track its a handful. All in all, more track time is helping. Thanks for all the help so far with everything guys. I've had the car for a month now, and am loving it more and more.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:09 AM
  #2267  
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Originally Posted by deceit
What do you guys recommend for cleaning? I have done multiple searches and "simple green" "simple green" etc, but i wonder if that weakened my strap too? Also after a day at the track my car is squeakier than a mouse.. >< So any recommendations for after race cleaning/keeping this beast in tip top shape would be appreciated. [: Having the arms squeak, and the bearings feel like trash isn't appealing.
I generally just use a brush and air hose to get the bulk of everything off. Then every 3-4 weeks I do a complete tear down, check all bearings, freshen all oils, and use the part & chassis wash from CowRC below to clean all my parts, then reassemble. (I race 3-4 vehicles each week, so I do a tear down every week, and keep them rotated)

http://www.cowrc.com/store/#!/MOO-Kl...egory=12842156

Originally Posted by deceit
Starting to get the hang of driving my EB better, been sticking it out with Joe's SNats setup, the main issues I was having at first were due to the track being too dusty. So in the morning/evening the car handles amazing, but 1-5pm, if we don't water the track its a handful. All in all, more track time is helping. Thanks for all the help so far with everything guys. I've had the car for a month now, and am loving it more and more.
There is nothing better to spend valuable money on besides track time to get smoother/faster. Just remember, your not looking for hero laps, your looking for consistency, & with Consistency the speed will come.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:20 AM
  #2268  
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Same here..the Losi battery straps seem to be more durable.
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by deceit
That's a great deal... shame I just bought mine last month from tower!


I'll try strapping them down a bit looser and see if that fixes the problem. They weren't that tight to begin with, so ill leave just a little bit of wiggle room.

What do you guys recommend for cleaning? I have done multiple searches and "simple green" "simple green" etc, but i wonder if that weakened my strap too? Also after a day at the track my car is squeakier than a mouse.. >< So any recommendations for after race cleaning/keeping this beast in tip top shape would be appreciated. [: Having the arms squeak, and the bearings feel like trash isn't appealing.

Starting to get the hang of driving my EB better, been sticking it out with Joe's SNats setup, the main issues I was having at first were due to the track being too dusty. So in the morning/evening the car handles amazing, but 1-5pm, if we don't water the track its a handful. All in all, more track time is helping. Thanks for all the help so far with everything guys. I've had the car for a month now, and am loving it more and more.
Race Ready Products for cleaning. Jason gave me a bottle to try and wow, I'm a believer. He had to give me 2 more bottles because of how many people took it from my pits! It's all I use now. You can search for them on Facebook for info or just message me here and I'll put you in touch with the right people.

As far as the track getting dusty. That's a never ending battle. Try to find what tire works best in that condition. Just keep in mind that usually when the track is dusty, it's also abrasive, so new(er) tires will always be better.

One thing that you can try is if the grip goes away all of a sudden because of the dust, turn your Dual Rate down so that you take away steering from the car. A car with a push will force you to slow down more to turn. Most guys just want to turn their expo on their throttle down, but I feel this can be more beneficial. Start off with just dropping it from 100 to 80 or 85 and see if you notice the difference.
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Old 09-21-2016, 05:21 PM
  #2270  
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Where do you guys find a replacement recessed washer for the wing at? I can only seem to find it as part of a new mounting kit. Or if y'all have any other options that work I'm all ears...
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:02 AM
  #2271  
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I found these at Amain: https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...665blk/p506266
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Thrifty
Where do you guys find a replacement recessed washer for the wing at? I can only seem to find it as part of a new mounting kit. Or if y'all have any other options that work I'm all ears...
https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=wing+buttons
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, I was thinking those were my only option.. pretty much what I paid for the whole mounting set up...

I've now officially turned my 410.3 into a buggy...
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:56 AM
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I have a 410.3 chassis i have not used in awhile. Did you get the conversion kit when it was available? Or is this a custom build? Pics?
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:16 AM
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OK, totally newb question here.
I'm upgrading servo horn to TKR5253B. This is the clamp, double hole configuration. Using the included M3 to attach to servo shaft and suggested flathead M3 to attach to linkage.

There is a small gap with a hole through on the backside of the horn.

Is there a small screw (not included) that is supposed to be installed there to tighten or cinch the horn around the servo shaft????

I'd hate to run this thing and strip the horn or servo shaft because it's too loose under use.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:23 AM
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If I remember right that's included.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
OK, totally newb question here.
I'm upgrading servo horn to TKR5253B. This is the clamp, double hole configuration. Using the included M3 to attach to servo shaft and suggested flathead M3 to attach to linkage.

There is a small gap with a hole through on the backside of the horn.

Is there a small screw (not included) that is supposed to be installed there to tighten or cinch the horn around the servo shaft????

I'd hate to run this thing and strip the horn or servo shaft because it's too loose under use.

Thanks
Most definitely included, do not run it without that screw. That's what makes it a clamping horn.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:35 AM
  #2278  
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OK, the included screw is for the clamp, not to attach horn to servo.
I'll try it that way.. thanks for the help
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:44 AM
  #2279  
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
OK, the included screw is for the clamp, not to attach horn to servo.
I'll try it that way.. thanks for the help
Yup, the screw to secure the horn to the servo should have come with your servo.
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bigboyz12000
I have a 410.3 chassis i have not used in awhile. Did you get the conversion kit when it was available? Or is this a custom build? Pics?
Just bought the pieces separately.. wing, adjustable wing amount w/screws, front bumper and body... The side body parts don't really have to be changed as the only difference is the UL ones don't have the parts for the screws that hold the air guard... I just notched the body...
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