219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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11-04-2017, 08:04 AM
#5329
4000kv, 4 pole
11-06-2017, 06:26 AM
#5333
Tech Master
I run the SMC 4500kv motor in my 4wd sct.
Most will run anywhere from 4000kv-4700kv, with a few liking the 3800kv motor.
Most will run anywhere from 4000kv-4700kv, with a few liking the 3800kv motor.
11-06-2017, 11:45 AM
#5335
Alright, turning to you guys for advice regarding toe in/out. Specifically front toe.
I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.
This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.
The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.
I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.
1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?
2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?
I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.
This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.
The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.
I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.
1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?
2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?
11-06-2017, 12:03 PM
#5336
Alright, turning to you guys for advice regarding toe in/out. Specifically front toe.
I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.
This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.
The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.
I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.
1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?
2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?
I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.
This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.
The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.
I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.
1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?
2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?
1. Don't get too worked up about the front toe, its pretty much tuned to preference. The more toe out you have the more initial steering you will have.
2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.
11-07-2017, 12:19 PM
#5337
1. Don't get too worked up about the front toe, its pretty much tuned to preference. The more toe out you have the more initial steering you will have.
2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.
2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.
11-08-2017, 07:22 AM
#5338
Thank you for the response!! Just to be clear, you're saying that going more toe in / \ in the rear will help to stabilize the truck on power? I'm loving this thing in the corners but it's a handful on the back straight. Been testing AKA impact soft, JC 3ds green compound and Blockade M3s. Liking the AKAs the best right now.
11-14-2017, 03:26 PM
#5339
This is getting annoying, it has happened a few times now.... the bottom screw backs out of the carrier and I even drilled in a set screw! I tried putting lock tite in it, and it still came out. After installing the set screw it was good for a few months, but I guess its time to buy another carrier. ]:
11-15-2017, 09:53 AM
#5340
This is getting annoying, it has happened a few times now.... the bottom screw backs out of the carrier and I even drilled in a set screw! I tried putting lock tite in it, and it still came out. After installing the set screw it was good for a few months, but I guess its time to buy another carrier. ]: