219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
|
12-31-2016, 02:23 PM
#4576
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
the modification note wrongly list the camber link #5550 as the part needed to be cut instead of the steering link #5123
"In order to obtain positive static toe, both left and right steering turnbuckles for the EB/NB48 (TKR5050) and SCT410/EB48SL (TKR5550) will need to be shortened by approx 6mm (3mm on each side of both turnbuckles)."
"In order to obtain positive static toe, both left and right steering turnbuckles for the EB/NB48 (TKR5050) and SCT410/EB48SL (TKR5550) will need to be shortened by approx 6mm (3mm on each side of both turnbuckles)."
12-31-2016, 10:14 PM
#4579
what parts are needed to upgrade to a .3?
12-31-2016, 11:58 PM
#4581
You got 4th in the amain, you didn't do that bad. My truck was so bad that I didn't even start the main and I just went home. lol Plus, my body was toast!
01-01-2017, 12:04 AM
#4582
01-01-2017, 07:51 AM
#4584
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Right, TKR5550 has a 5mm thread instead of 4mm needed for the steering links.
Like Cain said you can purchase some 50mm links with 4mm thread as an alternative. I didn't want to cut mine either. Took me over two weeks to decide to do it. It went smoother than anticipated using a dremel cutoff wheel. Either way, new link or cutting the existing link, try to make sure you keep the same thread pattern on the plastic so you are not cross-threading it.
Like Cain said you can purchase some 50mm links with 4mm thread as an alternative. I didn't want to cut mine either. Took me over two weeks to decide to do it. It went smoother than anticipated using a dremel cutoff wheel. Either way, new link or cutting the existing link, try to make sure you keep the same thread pattern on the plastic so you are not cross-threading it.
Last edited by qstorm777; 01-01-2017 at 12:06 PM.
01-01-2017, 07:54 AM
#4585
Tech Rookie
Hey guys, I've been stripping servo horns out lately and have determined my servo saver was too tight. I've loosened it up a bit and bought the Tekno Aluminum servo horn (TKR5253B). I'm confused because it's a clamping horn but didn't come with the pinch bolt to actually clamp it. The smaller Tekno clamping horns all come with the pinch bolt so I'm a bit stumped as to what to do with it? Thanks!
01-01-2017, 11:43 AM
#4587
Hey guys, I've been stripping servo horns out lately and have determined my servo saver was too tight. I've loosened it up a bit and bought the Tekno Aluminum servo horn (TKR5253B). I'm confused because it's a clamping horn but didn't come with the pinch bolt to actually clamp it. The smaller Tekno clamping horns all come with the pinch bolt so I'm a bit stumped as to what to do with it? Thanks!
With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.
01-01-2017, 12:55 PM
#4588
Tech Rookie
So it didn't come with any screw at all? The clamping horns now use an M3 screw so any M3x8mm (I think it's 8mm, maybe 10mm) button head or cap head screw will work.
With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.
With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.
Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!
01-01-2017, 01:03 PM
#4589
I should've specified, sorry. It came with the M3 bolt to tighten the horn to the servo, but it didn't come with the pinch bolt that serves to "clamp" the horn from the back.
Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!
Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!
Don't worry about posting here, glad to help, but I would still tighten your servo saver back up
.
01-01-2017, 01:09 PM
#4590
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Ok, so what parts (tekno part numbers ) do I need to adjust the toe to 0 ? The original set up sheet has the front toe at .5
There that much off a difference in the .5 to the new recommended 0 , that we have to cut something ?
Someone please explain this to me like I'm a six year old , cause I don't understand.
And what method do you guys use to measure toe?
There that much off a difference in the .5 to the new recommended 0 , that we have to cut something ?
Someone please explain this to me like I'm a six year old , cause I don't understand.
And what method do you guys use to measure toe?