219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-14-2016, 09:51 AM
#3826
The ones I used fit just snug in the outdrive. They limit the play a bit, but no too much as you need a decent amount play for chassis flex. The O-rings just give a soft cushion for the center shafts to bounce off instead of metal to metal. It's worked good so far. 
06-14-2016, 10:00 AM
#3827
I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
06-14-2016, 10:16 AM
#3828
This is my experience as well. I just live with that slow 1/2 rebound that results. I have not been able to achieve 100% dead. An experienced 1st place racer told me how to do it but I wasn't able to get perfect dead. I'll have to ask him again or maybe we'll just build one at the track.
06-14-2016, 06:54 PM
#3829
Tech Adept
I had difficulty getting consistent results with the stock shocks. The edge of the bladders is fairly thick which makes it difficult for me to snug the stock plastic caps consistently. My solution is different bladders. I have found that Mugen MBX6 bladders work very well as a substitute. I get consistent results every time. I am able to achieve 0 rebound, and the bladders work well with the stock pistons for my needs. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the Tekno bladders. All I'm saying is so far I get better results this way.
06-14-2016, 07:13 PM
#3831
06-14-2016, 10:03 PM
#3832
Tech Adept
Vented shocks have the hole drilled on the top. The bleeder hole is on the side. If you slowly screw on the cap allowing the oil to come out and continually wipe it clean you should be able to get 0 rebound. Screw on a little and wipe, screw on a little more and wipe. This method works for me.
06-15-2016, 03:36 AM
#3833
Tech Initiate
cap
mines setup same as yours with the cap pack taped to the floor in between the motor and speedo.. theres just enough room
I'm considering adding the HW cap pack just as a precaution. Haven't had any problems, but can't hurt right? Question is, where do you put the cap pack? Space is tight on these cars. Just zip-tie / shrink wrap it on the battery lead?
I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
06-15-2016, 08:54 AM
#3834
Do you happen to have a picture of how the cap is installed? I tried finding info on it and haven't had any luck... no idea how to install the damn thing.. ><
06-15-2016, 09:22 AM
#3835
Tech Initiate
cap
yep will try take one later when home, but it is easy to do, the red wire from the cap soldered to the + battery post on the esc and the black - wire soldered to the - battery post on the esc.
06-15-2016, 09:33 AM
#3836
Tech Initiate
cap
its hard to photograph as its tucked under the wires stuck on the chassie with a bit of double sided esc tape and the wires run up and are soldered to the top of the posts
Last edited by szymanski2oo1; 06-15-2016 at 09:34 AM. Reason: wrong image added
06-15-2016, 10:07 AM
#3837
I'm considering adding the HW cap pack just as a precaution. Haven't had any problems, but can't hurt right? Question is, where do you put the cap pack? Space is tight on these cars. Just zip-tie / shrink wrap it on the battery lead?
I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
06-15-2016, 02:15 PM
#3838
Vented shocks have the hole drilled on the top. The bleeder hole is on the side. If you slowly screw on the cap allowing the oil to come out and continually wipe it clean you should be able to get 0 rebound. Screw on a little and wipe, screw on a little more and wipe. This method works for me.
Last edited by sapperc; 06-16-2016 at 04:36 PM.
06-15-2016, 07:29 PM
#3840
Thanks a lot for taking the time to take pics and explain! I'll finally get that setup this weekend, thanks man.