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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-03-2017, 11:25 PM
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I run 4000 4 pole to race
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:40 AM
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4150kv Maclan here
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Old 11-04-2017, 07:24 AM
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4600kv
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:04 AM
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4000kv, 4 pole
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:49 AM
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4300kv
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:37 PM
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Love my Tekin 4300..... dialed down to keep me out of trouble, but the punch is there when i need it....

Like when i have to punt my buddy out of the way going into a turn
ezlight and shanondink like this.
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
4150kv Maclan here
How do you like it?
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:26 AM
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I run the SMC 4500kv motor in my 4wd sct.

Most will run anywhere from 4000kv-4700kv, with a few liking the 3800kv motor.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by kewdawg View Post
How do you like it?
heck of a motor. runs cool and lots of power. Great motor for the money.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:45 AM
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Alright, turning to you guys for advice regarding toe in/out. Specifically front toe.

I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.

This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.

The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.

I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.

1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?

2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dakjones View Post
Alright, turning to you guys for advice regarding toe in/out. Specifically front toe.

I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.

This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.

The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.

I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.

1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?

2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?

1. Don't get too worked up about the front toe, its pretty much tuned to preference. The more toe out you have the more initial steering you will have.

2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.
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Old 11-07-2017, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by anr211 View Post
1. Don't get too worked up about the front toe, its pretty much tuned to preference. The more toe out you have the more initial steering you will have.

2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.
Thank you for the response!! Just to be clear, you're saying that going more toe in / \ in the rear will help to stabilize the truck on power? I'm loving this thing in the corners but it's a handful on the back straight. Been testing AKA impact soft, JC 3ds green compound and Blockade M3s. Liking the AKAs the best right now.
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dakjones View Post
Thank you for the response!! Just to be clear, you're saying that going more toe in / \ in the rear will help to stabilize the truck on power? I'm loving this thing in the corners but it's a handful on the back straight. Been testing AKA impact soft, JC 3ds green compound and Blockade M3s. Liking the AKAs the best right now.
Correct
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:26 PM
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This is getting annoying, it has happened a few times now.... the bottom screw backs out of the carrier and I even drilled in a set screw! I tried putting lock tite in it, and it still came out. After installing the set screw it was good for a few months, but I guess its time to buy another carrier. ]:


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Old 11-15-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
This is getting annoying, it has happened a few times now.... the bottom screw backs out of the carrier and I even drilled in a set screw! I tried putting lock tite in it, and it still came out. After installing the set screw it was good for a few months, but I guess its time to buy another carrier. ]:
Don't use thread lock on plastic parts, it will actually weaken the plastic and make it more likely to strip. Start with a new spindle, drill the hole for a setscrew if you like, and a fresh screw. Be careful not to over tighten the screw and you should be good. Check the screw after every few runs if you're not using a setscrew. If you have a setscrew it shouldn't ever loosen. If it strips again don't use thread lock, use CA glue.
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