Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#2374
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
Shaved shock collars down really thin, have shock rod ends as tight as they can go without binding pivot balls and I built the shocks as close to dead as possible. Still can't get 22mm but 23-24ish. I have no idea how some have no issues and then others do but thats where I'm at with ride height.
#2375
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
"So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor."
Which 4 washers are considered steering stops? I cannot see where these would be located?
Which 4 washers are considered steering stops? I cannot see where these would be located?
#2376
Shaved shock collars down really thin, have shock rod ends as tight as they can go without binding pivot balls and I built the shocks as close to dead as possible. Still can't get 22mm but 23-24ish. I have no idea how some have no issues and then others do but thats where I'm at with ride height.
#2377
Bingo! For NT you can get away with probably 2 washers. But try 4 and see how it is. It's a quick adjustment with predictable results.
#2378
I think I have my shocks leaned all the way on the front end, so this is helping with ride height along with shaving the collars.
We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
#2379
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
I think I have my shocks leaned all the way on the front end, so this is helping with ride height along with shaving the collars.
We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
#2380
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I don't see this explained in the manual on my phone. Idk about my paper manual. Anyway, if you bought a .3 kit, you probably had eight 3x8mm shims (TKR1221) and two 3x6mm screws left over. There should be a hole inside each steering spindle arm. You place the shims on the screw and screw into the hole on the steering spindle. Check out page 12 of the EB48.3 manual.
#2381
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
I don't see this explained in the manual on my phone. Idk about my paper manual. Anyway, if you bought a .3 kit, you probably had eight 3x8mm shims (TKR1221) and two 3x6mm screws left over. There should be a hole inside each steering spindle arm. You place the shims on the screw and screw into the hole on the steering spindle. Check out page 12 of the EB48.3 manual.
#2383
I have been having trouble with my 3656 4700 and sct pro combo in my new 410.3. Esc cuts out after a few mins, restarts and runs for 30 seconds, then cuts out again. Tried all the typical troubleshooting below, conclusion is that the esc is overloaded somehow (with help from hobbywing tech support). I suspect I could have a weak esc, maybe components out of spec. I know others have tried this combo on this truck. If it is working well, what is your setup?
Tried:
Re-calibrated radio
LVC off
Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
Updated firmware
Unplugged sensor wire
Different radio system (completely different brand)
Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
Checked all connections
14t and 16t pinion
Hard wired switch
Confirmed no binding in drivetrain
Punch set to min, no drag brake, no timing
Temps all ok, except caps on esc get hot with 16t pinion.
Side note: tech support (Angelo) has been extremely fast responding, and great support in the tech support thread here on rctech (Slotmachine, lewis110).
Tried:
Re-calibrated radio
LVC off
Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
Updated firmware
Unplugged sensor wire
Different radio system (completely different brand)
Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
Checked all connections
14t and 16t pinion
Hard wired switch
Confirmed no binding in drivetrain
Punch set to min, no drag brake, no timing
Temps all ok, except caps on esc get hot with 16t pinion.
Side note: tech support (Angelo) has been extremely fast responding, and great support in the tech support thread here on rctech (Slotmachine, lewis110).
Some of the MOSFETS, #2 phase plate were burned out so that the entire PCB needs to be completely replaced. This happens for various reasons but is clearly related to the power source: Battery and the motor selection (over surged current, irregular current C, exceeding max power W), which causes overheating and overloading of the ESC.
You may want to check the gear ratio, FDR, and battery brand (poor quality battery cells produce irregular current which damages the ESC instantly.) Please make sure your vehicle is geared correctly for the track size and conditions you run. As a starting setup, we would like to recommend adjusting your ESC to the recommended settings listed below.
To reduce heat you can change your gearing or prop size, use a more efficient motor, reduce your voltage or amps, or try a motor heat sink and motor fan. Keeping the heat down on your motor allows it to run longer, and gives you the power it needs.
The ESC was determined to be non-defective, but because you are our valued customer we will issue a brand-new replacement at no extra charge - one time only. Please fulfill the shipping fee by clicking on the invoice link below.
#2384
Tech Adept
I keep seeing comments about not being able to set the correct ride height but I never see the diameter of the tires mentioned. I haven't measured them yet but I do know there is quite a difference between my hb beams and my aka handelbars which would definitely affect the ride height. Is this the thing that is being overlooked?