Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Give the diff some time to break in. Sometimes I have noticed this to after a fresh build, but it tend to go away once you have some time on the drive train. I guess it could be that one side is slightly tighter than the other in regard to the out-drive seals or seat. If the problem persist after about 10 packs, then you might consider tearing things down to have a better look at everything's alignment, checking for witness marks that might indicated wear. But most likely it will work it's self out.
As for the noise, this is normal for mod1 pitch gears. I remember the first time I ran my SC truck and heard it. It freaked me out to the point I was ready to tear it down and kept checking the pinion, because I just knew it was toast!
But they quiet down a bit after some running and like a person who builds a house near a train track, you will just get used to it and won't notice it at all.

Assuming your servo has an alloy horn that is well centered and the EPA is dialed as close to the other as possible. Make sure your servo saver is tightened down really good.
Also, you will want to make sure all your links are dialed in length wise the same from side to side.
Also take note of where your inner wheel might hit the arm or shock at full deflection from any witness marks on the front or back of the A-arms/shocks, or by eye if you haven't put much time on the chassis yet.
Push your suspension up and down while at full deflection left and right to see if any contact is being made at any point through the action. It is logical for folks to want everything it can give you in total deflection, but with nothing else considered and that being said, doesn't always give you the best "overall" optimal results.
One side may drag against an arm/shock more or less than the other and will cause this sort of inconsistency. If the bind is extreme enough it can produce a false turn radius, as it will actually create enough drag force against the inside of a rim that it will act more or less as a wheel brake and potentially force the truck around it. This can cause false push and will drag your truck to the outside of the turn if it is binding against the front of the arm on the outside wheel through a turn, or alternately can cause over steer if it binds against the back of the arm on the inside wheel around a turn.
It will obviously depend on which side (front or back) of the arm your are getting bind against as to what it will do.
You must also realize that if one side is off in camber (more lean in) a bit from the other, one will have less clearance than the other because it will bind sooner than the other due to the mechanical angles being indifferent.
These things are easy to over look due to the fact that many folks tend to set and forget EPA after their initial build. But fact is every time you make mechanical adjustments, you will indirectly be changing where the optimal EPA setting should be for clean clearance to both side.
Now with all that stuff being considered and all the first mentioned steps addressed, if it still turns one way better, (but only slightly) then you should consider bringing the steering EPA back a hair on the side that turns the tightest, until it matches the side that has the least turn in.
I know that sounds a bit counter productive in regard to getting the most out of your turn geometry, but it is far better to have a consistent vehicle that turns equally from left to right than it is to have one that turns harder one way than it does the other.
If you don't get this dialed out equally, then you will inevitably set yourself up toward creating a bad habit of over shooting your turn angles in the direction that turns less than the other and it will kill your lap times overall and make your truck unpredictable and a hassle to maintain within any sort of chicane.
Just like the methodology of how "slow is fast", maybe even more so is consistency in handling characteristics from side to side, even if you have to shave a little off of one to help the other out.
To cap this reply out, if you are not getting the overall tuning desired, you might consider playing with your ackerman position and reducing some angle from your kickup once you have things equaled out. More ackerman produces more predictable, but less on-power steering, which will help off-power smoothness around the turns, while less akerman will give you a more aggressive traction bite for forceful on-power steering.
Reducing kick-up has a sweet effect that is like having more toe-out in the front, without the stability loss down the straights.
You will notice more responsiveness with steering, but the flip side is it will take away a bit of the bump/rut smoothing. If your track isn't totally blown out, this is a great thing to try instead of just relying on more toe out in the front.
The last resort is trying a wheel with a bit more offset if possible. Sometimes they will clear slightly more than a 0 offset will, but not always.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

When you need to center the horn on the truck, do that with sub trim, not trim.

jb19

I'm just putting my kit together and wondering what wheels everyone is using for the wheel hexes that come in the new kit. http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5571m...12mm-sct410sl/

My old 410 had the old short course style hexes. I think this is a better design, but none of my old wheels work.

Tijuana_Taxi

iTrader: (4)

Same wheels fit, you just need to ream the center hole out on the wheel because the .3 axle is bigger. The hex is still 12mm it's just shaped different for weight savings since they are steel.

jb19

lol. Man do I feel stupid.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

I can see where this would be easy to confuse. The new design shape doesn't appear to still be a hex at first glance. I'm not sold on them to be honest. I am sure they work ok for many, but I would just put the alloy clamping set on anyhow.

Barillms

The DE Speedline wheels fit over the axle without reaming. But the Borregos require reaming, just a tiny bit. Just don't overtighten the stock hex. Barely snug the set screw down, you youll feel them crack. Ive cracked 4 already in 6 months.

SC 10 4x4 wheel hexs will fit also.

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

are the aluminum blocks really that necessary? I was thinking of upgrading my .2 to a .3. I currently run the plastic blocks now except for the rear.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=tfrankito;14214730]are the aluminum blocks really that necessary? I was thinking of upgrading my .2 to a .3. I currently run the plastic blocks now except for the rear.[/QtheUOTE]

I would say no. I've broken 2 "a" blocks. the one was definitely gonna break. I found a steel spike holding the pipe down. it was sticking up and I landed and slid into it. the other time I don't know if it was me or a weak part. either way, the blocks are cheaper than arms and hubs.

Ruffdog1

I am running 6 X 1.5 pistons all around with black springs 32.5 wt oil front, green springs 27.5 wt oil rear on outdoor blown out bumpy track. 65 degrees Fahrenheit air temperature. Track gets watered so there is decent traction but lots of bumps and rocks. Truck feels pretty good with emulsion setup but wondering if bladder setup with more rebound or less rebound would handle the rough track better. Should I stay with emulsion? Thoughts?

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Bladder is typically for rough/outdoor tracks since you get a faster/springy feel. I run emulsion for both indoor and outdoor on Kyosho springs (feels more linear).

Snarf450r

iTrader: (1)

Ruffdog, try heavier weight oil. Like 100 wt front 15wt rear.Proline prime tires works good for me, got first place last night. Also I spit on my tires for traction compound ,then pray you can beat me.............

Ruffdog1

HAHA. I always pray I can beat you. See you tonight.

ezlight

I run same spring and pistons, but run 450cst/350cst, and shocks all the way out on the arms. The truck handles great IMHO, and i've been running that setup on 7 different tracks all summer, with just camber adjustments track to track.

mxturd

iTrader: (36)

For playing with the ackerman, is it just using more or less washers?