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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-14-2015, 04:07 PM
  #2371  
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That's my set up too running indoor except differential and shock oil. Running differential oil F/C/R 10k/100k/3k.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
That's my set up too running indoor except differential and shock oil. Running differential oil F/C/R 10k/100k/3k.
How are you guys getting the ride height down to 22mm?
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
How are you guys getting the ride height down to 22mm?
I dont have any issue with the ride height 22mm with front green spring and pink rear spring.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
How are you guys getting the ride height down to 22mm?
Shaved shock collars down really thin, have shock rod ends as tight as they can go without binding pivot balls and I built the shocks as close to dead as possible. Still can't get 22mm but 23-24ish. I have no idea how some have no issues and then others do but thats where I'm at with ride height.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:21 PM
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"So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor."

Which 4 washers are considered steering stops? I cannot see where these would be located?
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Shaved shock collars down really thin, have shock rod ends as tight as they can go without binding pivot balls and I built the shocks as close to dead as possible. Still can't get 22mm but 23-24ish. I have no idea how some have no issues and then others do but thats where I'm at with ride height.
Weight of the truck ?
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Currently building NB48.3 and I was at the perfect point to try this. It actually doesn't reduce the throw as much as I thought. Will try on SCT and NT too. Maybe that will get rid of the fishtailing I sometimes get.
Bingo! For NT you can get away with probably 2 washers. But try 4 and see how it is. It's a quick adjustment with predictable results.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
How are you guys getting the ride height down to 22mm?
I think I have my shocks leaned all the way on the front end, so this is helping with ride height along with shaving the collars.

We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
I think I have my shocks leaned all the way on the front end, so this is helping with ride height along with shaving the collars.

We're looking into why some people can get ride height and others can't even using the same setup. There are so many factors, but we're working on it.
I'm using green front springs 2nd hole from inside and can't get below 27mm. And that's after compressing the springs overnight and a couple race days.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
Which 4 washers are considered steering stops? I cannot see where these would be located?
I don't see this explained in the manual on my phone. Idk about my paper manual. Anyway, if you bought a .3 kit, you probably had eight 3x8mm shims (TKR1221) and two 3x6mm screws left over. There should be a hole inside each steering spindle arm. You place the shims on the screw and screw into the hole on the steering spindle. Check out page 12 of the EB48.3 manual.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I don't see this explained in the manual on my phone. Idk about my paper manual. Anyway, if you bought a .3 kit, you probably had eight 3x8mm shims (TKR1221) and two 3x6mm screws left over. There should be a hole inside each steering spindle arm. You place the shims on the screw and screw into the hole on the steering spindle. Check out page 12 of the EB48.3 manual.
This step for whatever reason wasn't in the manual, print error.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:35 PM
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Thanks for the info on the stop location... Not in the manual... Oops
Maybe an adder to the first part of this thread with the rest of the tips.

Gotta love rc-tech... Always an answer when you need it.
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Old 10-16-2015, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MitchCraft View Post
I have been having trouble with my 3656 4700 and sct pro combo in my new 410.3. Esc cuts out after a few mins, restarts and runs for 30 seconds, then cuts out again. Tried all the typical troubleshooting below, conclusion is that the esc is overloaded somehow (with help from hobbywing tech support). I suspect I could have a weak esc, maybe components out of spec. I know others have tried this combo on this truck. If it is working well, what is your setup?

Tried:
Re-calibrated radio
LVC off
Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
Updated firmware
Unplugged sensor wire
Different radio system (completely different brand)
Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
Checked all connections
14t and 16t pinion
Hard wired switch
Confirmed no binding in drivetrain
Punch set to min, no drag brake, no timing
Temps all ok, except caps on esc get hot with 16t pinion.

Side note: tech support (Angelo) has been extremely fast responding, and great support in the tech support thread here on rctech (Slotmachine, lewis110).
Experienced same problem. Here is resolution from Falcon.

Some of the MOSFETS, #2 phase plate were burned out so that the entire PCB needs to be completely replaced. This happens for various reasons but is clearly related to the power source: Battery and the motor selection (over surged current, irregular current C, exceeding max power W), which causes overheating and overloading of the ESC.

You may want to check the gear ratio, FDR, and battery brand (poor quality battery cells produce irregular current which damages the ESC instantly.) Please make sure your vehicle is geared correctly for the track size and conditions you run. As a starting setup, we would like to recommend adjusting your ESC to the recommended settings listed below.

To reduce heat you can change your gearing or prop size, use a more efficient motor, reduce your voltage or amps, or try a motor heat sink and motor fan. Keeping the heat down on your motor allows it to run longer, and gives you the power it needs.

The ESC was determined to be non-defective, but because you are our valued customer we will issue a brand-new replacement at no extra charge - one time only. Please fulfill the shipping fee by clicking on the invoice link below.
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:28 PM
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I keep seeing comments about not being able to set the correct ride height but I never see the diameter of the tires mentioned. I haven't measured them yet but I do know there is quite a difference between my hb beams and my aka handelbars which would definitely affect the ride height. Is this the thing that is being overlooked?
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:57 PM
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Good point! I noticed this with my SCTE when I ran prolines vs panther boas. The ride height was definitely effected between the two. The panthers have a very soft side wall, so they loose even more height with weight on them than they appear off the truck.
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