2LikesSerpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread
03-06-2015, 05:05 AM
#1966
Brass ballast in cars in the UK
Gents,
With the type of surfaces we race on in the UK, the UK serpent team have found that by putting 70 grams under the ESC and receiver helps to plant the car, and also putting weight under the shorty lipo helps even more.
We tend to move the shorty around also to gain or lose steering as needed, a brill tuning aid.
Surfaces in the Uk can range from low grip rubber surfaces to high grip carpet. In the feedback that is posted on various sites there isnt a surface that this car cannot beat. So glad I got one.
Has any off you in the US etc tried putting brass under the receiver/esc yet?if so what are your thoughts?
With the type of surfaces we race on in the UK, the UK serpent team have found that by putting 70 grams under the ESC and receiver helps to plant the car, and also putting weight under the shorty lipo helps even more.
We tend to move the shorty around also to gain or lose steering as needed, a brill tuning aid.
Surfaces in the Uk can range from low grip rubber surfaces to high grip carpet. In the feedback that is posted on various sites there isnt a surface that this car cannot beat. So glad I got one.
Has any off you in the US etc tried putting brass under the receiver/esc yet?if so what are your thoughts?
03-06-2015, 01:23 PM
#1968
Tech Rookie
Can you guys recommend me a 2s battery that works the best for this car, brand and mah rating?
also, how long of run times are you guys averaging?
also, how long of run times are you guys averaging?
03-06-2015, 01:56 PM
#1969
1&3 are below.
2. I don't know anyone who says saddle has a bigger advantage than a shorty. The benefit of a saddle is higher mAh and better weight balance in some cars. Or just more weight actually.
The heavier side gives more traction. Think about a RM buggy, there's no way that it's more traction in the front. The biggest advantage of MM is better weight balance so less pendulum weight shifts which lead to better corner speeds.
The MM absolutely does not get more rear traction than the RM. That's why the RM is still preferred at outdoor loamy tracks. The higher the traction, the bigger the advantage for the MM buggy as the lack of rear traction is less of an issue of higher bite tracks.
For your wheelbase example, you'll have more steering off-power as the pendulum effect throws all that weight back to the front but not on-power.
2. I don't know anyone who says saddle has a bigger advantage than a shorty. The benefit of a saddle is higher mAh and better weight balance in some cars. Or just more weight actually.
The heavier side gives more traction. Think about a RM buggy, there's no way that it's more traction in the front. The biggest advantage of MM is better weight balance so less pendulum weight shifts which lead to better corner speeds.
The MM absolutely does not get more rear traction than the RM. That's why the RM is still preferred at outdoor loamy tracks. The higher the traction, the bigger the advantage for the MM buggy as the lack of rear traction is less of an issue of higher bite tracks.
For your wheelbase example, you'll have more steering off-power as the pendulum effect throws all that weight back to the front but not on-power.
03-06-2015, 01:58 PM
#1970
Speaking of the bulkhead, I noticed that in lots of set ups from serpent website, they use alu/brass bulkhead. Brass is for weight I got that. What about aluminum? Same reason? I don't know what the weight difference is between alu and stock plastic but I can't imagine alu is so much heavier that it gives more front traction. Or does it?
03-06-2015, 02:36 PM
#1971
Speaking of the bulkhead, I noticed that in lots of set ups from serpent website, they use alu/brass bulkhead. Brass is for weight I got that. What about aluminum? Same reason? I don't know what the weight difference is between alu and stock plastic but I can't imagine alu is so much heavier that it gives more front traction. Or does it?
1. A little more weight.
2. It's stronger than plastic.
3. If you want to change from 25º to either 20º or 30º, you'll need either the aluminum or brass bulkhead and the proper hinge pin mount. The plastic piece is fixed.
Here's the weight info:
Plastic bulkhead: 7.1g
Aluminum bulkhead: 14.5g
Brass bulkhead: 41.5g
03-06-2015, 03:49 PM
#1972
There aren't many people who use the front brass bulkhead. Even Billy Easton seems to recommend against it. I use aluminum for a few reasons.
1. A little more weight.
2. It's stronger than plastic.
3. If you want to change from 25º to either 20º or 30º, you'll need either the aluminum or brass bulkhead and the proper hinge pin mount. The plastic piece is fixed.
Here's the weight info:
Plastic bulkhead: 7.1g
Aluminum bulkhead: 14.5g
Brass bulkhead: 41.5g
1. A little more weight.
2. It's stronger than plastic.
3. If you want to change from 25º to either 20º or 30º, you'll need either the aluminum or brass bulkhead and the proper hinge pin mount. The plastic piece is fixed.
Here's the weight info:
Plastic bulkhead: 7.1g
Aluminum bulkhead: 14.5g
Brass bulkhead: 41.5g
03-06-2015, 03:53 PM
#1973
No prob. There's inserts to do that. The plastic is fixed at 25º and the inserts in the aluminum/brass bulkhead allow +/-5º. Just remember, you also need the proper hinge pin holder. Sucks to have to get that too.
There's also 0/2.5/5º that can be added in the hubs.
There's also 0/2.5/5º that can be added in the hubs.
03-06-2015, 03:53 PM
#1974
Tech Rookie
Tell us more. What ESC/motor are you planning to run? What's your intended usage? Do you run it at a track? If so, racing or just driving?
There aren't many people who use the front brass bulkhead. Even Billy Easton seems to recommend against it. I use aluminum for a few reasons.
1. A little more weight.
2. It's stronger than plastic.
3. If you want to change from 25º to either 20º or 30º, you'll need either the aluminum or brass bulkhead and the proper hinge pin mount. The plastic piece is fixed.
Here's the weight info:
Plastic bulkhead: 7.1g
Aluminum bulkhead: 14.5g
Brass bulkhead: 41.5g
There aren't many people who use the front brass bulkhead. Even Billy Easton seems to recommend against it. I use aluminum for a few reasons.
1. A little more weight.
2. It's stronger than plastic.
3. If you want to change from 25º to either 20º or 30º, you'll need either the aluminum or brass bulkhead and the proper hinge pin mount. The plastic piece is fixed.
Here's the weight info:
Plastic bulkhead: 7.1g
Aluminum bulkhead: 14.5g
Brass bulkhead: 41.5g
Thank you Shagino
I will be using the 120a hobby wing xenon with the xenon 8.5t motor. I will be racing at my LHS indoor on med-high traction.
Do you have any other recommendations for a motor/esc combo?
also, what servo would me best? any ideas? budget is not really an issue, i just want something that should last me along time.
thanks again, i appreciate the info. Me and a buddy of mine are switching from 4wd 1/8th buggy to 2wd 1/10th so I'm trying to do it right! Serpent sounds really good, I've read about 110 pages pages of this forum since last night.
03-06-2015, 05:08 PM
#1975
Can I get the part number for the hinge pin holders? Do I need those even with alu bulkhead and inserts too? Oh and I meant to ask if the bulkhead changes caster or kickup or both. Just hard to know w/o the actual car LOL
03-06-2015, 05:57 PM
#1977
Tech Rookie
Thanks Tony, that might be a little above budget I didn't even know a 1/10th esc could be 250$ that's nuts!
I'm looking for a combo around 200$ or so and was considering the xenon hobbywing
Also, what battery would be best for the serpent? As far as mah and brand..
What spare parts should I order ahead of time?
I appreciate all that you can do, I'm new to rc tech and this is a great forum, you guys are really
Insightful and quick to respond!
03-06-2015, 06:08 PM
#1978
also, what servo would me best? any ideas? budget is not really an issue, i just want something that should last me along time.
thanks again, i appreciate the info. Me and a buddy of mine are switching from 4wd 1/8th buggy to 2wd 1/10th so I'm trying to do it right! Serpent sounds really good, I've read about 110 pages pages of this forum since last night.
thanks again, i appreciate the info. Me and a buddy of mine are switching from 4wd 1/8th buggy to 2wd 1/10th so I'm trying to do it right! Serpent sounds really good, I've read about 110 pages pages of this forum since last night.
Welcome to the club. Make sure you read the FAQ that I put together. You're probablt close to finding it if you haven't already. If you're on FB, join the Serpent Spyder group there. It's way better than this forum.
03-06-2015, 06:14 PM
#1979
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...9&cat=0&page=1
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...0&cat=0&page=1
Well, it's really kick up but it also changes caster. The hinge pins angle changes when it's done at the bulkhead.
03-06-2015, 06:57 PM
#1980
Tech Rookie
No prob. The Spektrum S6040 is a good value servo. I'm using a Futaba BLS451 now. I hear they've been discontinued though.
Welcome to the club. Make sure you read the FAQ that I put together. You're probablt close to finding it if you haven't already. If you're on FB, join the Serpent Spyder group there. It's way better than this forum.
Welcome to the club. Make sure you read the FAQ that I put together. You're probablt close to finding it if you haven't already. If you're on FB, join the Serpent Spyder group there. It's way better than this forum.
Last question, as far as batteries are concerned, what ones do you recommend? As far as mah, brand and discharge rate?