TLR 22-4 THREAD
#5777
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I ran my 22-4 all day today on our local astro track, car performed decent but I lacked steering most of the day and stability on the limit. I made a few changes throughout the day only to realise that for some reason my EPA was set a few clicks lower than where it needed to be, god knows why it had changed but it did. After correcting that and discovering steering, I managed to pull a second place out of the bag in the 3rd leg of the A Final
After the meeting I stayed to flip my rear arms round and run the shocks inboard. Now I ran the shocks inboard as close as I could to the original settings I ran throughout the day, to get a good comparison. So basically I ran the stock hubs, lengthened my wheelbase an additional 2mm to compensate for the arms shortening it and I also drilled a new hole for my anti roll bar which I could simply bolt into the opposite side of the arm. The only thing I had to do besides drilling a new hole for the anti-roll bar mount was to add approximately 3mm's worth of washers over the ballstud on the rear camber block, just to straighten it out as best as I could. It was still on a slight angle however, but again for the sake of consistency I stuck with it. Obviously if you wanted to run this configuration long term, you'd probably be better with the 22 hubs to work around this. If you did want to keep with the stock hubs though I would probably recommend longer ballstuds and more shims.
After completing the modification I took to the track, and??? Different car! I was absolutely blown away with just how much BETTER it was. Now remember I was running on high grip astro, so I'm not saying that it's going to suit everyone but on this kind of condition it really suited me. The car was much more responsive and more reactive to steering inputs, this had nothing but benefits for me whether it was high or low speed steering. I also noticed that for the first time ever I could get the car to slide and give in the corner rather than try and grip roll, which made the car much more forgiving on the high grip and gave me a level of confidence to push the car that I have never had with it before. In the original configuration even throughout the day with the same setup I was always very conscious of driving too hard for the sake of not having grip roll, with the rear shocks inboard however I could drive the snot out of the thing and it just responded!
The shocks are very much staying on the inside now, and next up is to try the 22 hubs and potentially the shorty pack. I could do all of this in one go, but I very much believe in understanding and learning for myself . On the downside I now need to rebuild my diffs again, which is very frustrating because they've only done 3 meetings. Seriously, if this car had gear diffs it would probably be the best 4wd out there.
After the meeting I stayed to flip my rear arms round and run the shocks inboard. Now I ran the shocks inboard as close as I could to the original settings I ran throughout the day, to get a good comparison. So basically I ran the stock hubs, lengthened my wheelbase an additional 2mm to compensate for the arms shortening it and I also drilled a new hole for my anti roll bar which I could simply bolt into the opposite side of the arm. The only thing I had to do besides drilling a new hole for the anti-roll bar mount was to add approximately 3mm's worth of washers over the ballstud on the rear camber block, just to straighten it out as best as I could. It was still on a slight angle however, but again for the sake of consistency I stuck with it. Obviously if you wanted to run this configuration long term, you'd probably be better with the 22 hubs to work around this. If you did want to keep with the stock hubs though I would probably recommend longer ballstuds and more shims.
After completing the modification I took to the track, and??? Different car! I was absolutely blown away with just how much BETTER it was. Now remember I was running on high grip astro, so I'm not saying that it's going to suit everyone but on this kind of condition it really suited me. The car was much more responsive and more reactive to steering inputs, this had nothing but benefits for me whether it was high or low speed steering. I also noticed that for the first time ever I could get the car to slide and give in the corner rather than try and grip roll, which made the car much more forgiving on the high grip and gave me a level of confidence to push the car that I have never had with it before. In the original configuration even throughout the day with the same setup I was always very conscious of driving too hard for the sake of not having grip roll, with the rear shocks inboard however I could drive the snot out of the thing and it just responded!
The shocks are very much staying on the inside now, and next up is to try the 22 hubs and potentially the shorty pack. I could do all of this in one go, but I very much believe in understanding and learning for myself . On the downside I now need to rebuild my diffs again, which is very frustrating because they've only done 3 meetings. Seriously, if this car had gear diffs it would probably be the best 4wd out there.
I'm looking forward to the follow-up mod reports!
#5778
I ran my 22-4 all day today on our local astro track, car performed decent but I lacked steering most of the day and stability on the limit. I made a few changes throughout the day only to realise that for some reason my EPA was set a few clicks lower than where it needed to be, god knows why it had changed but it did. After correcting that and discovering steering, I managed to pull a second place out of the bag in the 3rd leg of the A Final
After the meeting I stayed to flip my rear arms round and run the shocks inboard. Now I ran the shocks inboard as close as I could to the original settings I ran throughout the day, to get a good comparison. So basically I ran the stock hubs, lengthened my wheelbase an additional 2mm to compensate for the arms shortening it and I also drilled a new hole for my anti roll bar which I could simply bolt into the opposite side of the arm. The only thing I had to do besides drilling a new hole for the anti-roll bar mount was to add approximately 3mm's worth of washers over the ballstud on the rear camber block, just to straighten it out as best as I could. It was still on a slight angle however, but again for the sake of consistency I stuck with it. Obviously if you wanted to run this configuration long term, you'd probably be better with the 22 hubs to work around this. If you did want to keep with the stock hubs though I would probably recommend longer ballstuds and more shims.
After completing the modification I took to the track, and??? Different car! I was absolutely blown away with just how much BETTER it was. Now remember I was running on high grip astro, so I'm not saying that it's going to suit everyone but on this kind of condition it really suited me. The car was much more responsive and more reactive to steering inputs, this had nothing but benefits for me whether it was high or low speed steering. I also noticed that for the first time ever I could get the car to slide and give in the corner rather than try and grip roll, which made the car much more forgiving on the high grip and gave me a level of confidence to push the car that I have never had with it before. In the original configuration even throughout the day with the same setup I was always very conscious of driving too hard for the sake of not having grip roll, with the rear shocks inboard however I could drive the snot out of the thing and it just responded!
The shocks are very much staying on the inside now, and next up is to try the 22 hubs and potentially the shorty pack. I could do all of this in one go, but I very much believe in understanding and learning for myself . On the downside I now need to rebuild my diffs again, which is very frustrating because they've only done 3 meetings. Seriously, if this car had gear diffs it would probably be the best 4wd out there.
After the meeting I stayed to flip my rear arms round and run the shocks inboard. Now I ran the shocks inboard as close as I could to the original settings I ran throughout the day, to get a good comparison. So basically I ran the stock hubs, lengthened my wheelbase an additional 2mm to compensate for the arms shortening it and I also drilled a new hole for my anti roll bar which I could simply bolt into the opposite side of the arm. The only thing I had to do besides drilling a new hole for the anti-roll bar mount was to add approximately 3mm's worth of washers over the ballstud on the rear camber block, just to straighten it out as best as I could. It was still on a slight angle however, but again for the sake of consistency I stuck with it. Obviously if you wanted to run this configuration long term, you'd probably be better with the 22 hubs to work around this. If you did want to keep with the stock hubs though I would probably recommend longer ballstuds and more shims.
After completing the modification I took to the track, and??? Different car! I was absolutely blown away with just how much BETTER it was. Now remember I was running on high grip astro, so I'm not saying that it's going to suit everyone but on this kind of condition it really suited me. The car was much more responsive and more reactive to steering inputs, this had nothing but benefits for me whether it was high or low speed steering. I also noticed that for the first time ever I could get the car to slide and give in the corner rather than try and grip roll, which made the car much more forgiving on the high grip and gave me a level of confidence to push the car that I have never had with it before. In the original configuration even throughout the day with the same setup I was always very conscious of driving too hard for the sake of not having grip roll, with the rear shocks inboard however I could drive the snot out of the thing and it just responded!
The shocks are very much staying on the inside now, and next up is to try the 22 hubs and potentially the shorty pack. I could do all of this in one go, but I very much believe in understanding and learning for myself . On the downside I now need to rebuild my diffs again, which is very frustrating because they've only done 3 meetings. Seriously, if this car had gear diffs it would probably be the best 4wd out there.
Makes sense. The first thing done to the XXX-4 was to move the shocks to the back of the tower to gain traction. Moving them forward on this car is taking away a bit of rear traction, making the car less edgy and allowing it to rotate and drift a bit making the car easier to drive.
#5779
Interesting observation Ashalak, my reaction to the rear arm swap was the opposite; it help plant the rear end better!? Agree on the positive change, but apparently for different reasons. Clearly the breadth of setups is to account for all of the different conditions, personally I think Losi got this one very right.
#5783
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
The only parts the guys are running that are not available yet are CVA's for front and rear. Those will be available soon (hopefully next month). Other than that, the big key for the team lately has been the change to a shorty configuration. This is definitely something I would recommend as all the team drivers that have tried it definitely prefer it.
#5784
I've got to disagree with you there Ryan, on UK high grip tracks the std rear end is way too narrow & has a weird "hop" while cornering, the wider 22 hubs take that away & allow us to run more droop to help over bumps.
I'm also using the 22 uj's, not the CVA's, wanted to keep it the same as the front shafts.
I'm also using the 22 uj's, not the CVA's, wanted to keep it the same as the front shafts.
#5785
The only parts the guys are running that are not available yet are CVA's for front and rear. Those will be available soon (hopefully next month). Other than that, the big key for the team lately has been the change to a shorty configuration. This is definitely something I would recommend as all the team drivers that have tried it definitely prefer it.
I eyed up Dakotah, Dustin, and Maifields cars... no prototype parts at all. Just good setups.
Phends car looked like it was on a different planet. He is using the latest shorty setup that has been posted time and again. At the Nationals he used the Proline Electron tire that seemed to suite the track and his driving really well.
Before you guys go moving the shocks in-board, I would try the shorty pack setup first. As frank said, pretty much the whole team is running it that way and it definitely makes the car feel better on the track.
#5786
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
I was following the nat's and noticed very quickly that there were no more saddle pack configured 22-4's.
I changed to the shorty setup and love it!
I changed to the shorty setup and love it!
I eyed up Dakotah, Dustin, and Maifields cars... no prototype parts at all. Just good setups.
Phends car looked like it was on a different planet. He is using the latest shorty setup that has been posted time and again. At the Nationals he used the Proline Electron tire that seemed to suite the track and his driving really well.
Before you guys go moving the shocks in-board, I would try the shorty pack setup first. As frank said, pretty much the whole team is running it that way and it definitely makes the car feel better on the track.
Phends car looked like it was on a different planet. He is using the latest shorty setup that has been posted time and again. At the Nationals he used the Proline Electron tire that seemed to suite the track and his driving really well.
Before you guys go moving the shocks in-board, I would try the shorty pack setup first. As frank said, pretty much the whole team is running it that way and it definitely makes the car feel better on the track.
#5787
Tech Elite
iTrader: (56)
I eyed up Dakotah, Dustin, and Maifields car Dakotah prototype parts at all. Just good setups.
Phends car looked like it was on a different planet. He is using the latest shorty setup that has been posted time and again. At the Nationals he used the Proline Electron tire that seemed to suite the track and his driving really well.
Before you guys go moving the shocks in-board, I would try the shorty pack setup first. As frank said, pretty much the whole team is running it that way and it definitely makes the car feel better on the track.
Phends car looked like it was on a different planet. He is using the latest shorty setup that has been posted time and again. At the Nationals he used the Proline Electron tire that seemed to suite the track and his driving really well.
Before you guys go moving the shocks in-board, I would try the shorty pack setup first. As frank said, pretty much the whole team is running it that way and it definitely makes the car feel better on the track.
#5788
Tech Rookie
shorty
For hacker or franck root
Is the shorty mod good for astro or carpet or i must stay with the saddle.
I don't want to roll over for sure.
Thanks from France.
Is the shorty mod good for astro or carpet or i must stay with the saddle.
I don't want to roll over for sure.
Thanks from France.