TY@TEAMTEKIN

Really? Usually moving the inner link up will make the car less twitchy and take some steering away.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

Whats your shimming of the caster block ball-stud?

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

you're right, def made it less twitchy and it made the car more consistent overall. But def was more responsive to what i wanted it to do. Heres what hudy says about inner front camber link:

Upper holes (lower roll center)
• Increases steering into corner
• Car is more responsive
Lower holes (higher roll center)
• Decreases steering into corner
• Car is less responsive
• Use in high-grip conditions

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

Hinge pin kits came in today...the front inners are now threaded!!

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

i believe 2mm

Jason_Minich

iTrader: (2)

Just recently got back into the hobby after being out of it since 2002. Bought a 22 2.0 and love it. Decided to get another car to run more and got the 22-4. Took it out for practice last night for the first time. All I can say is WOW. So much fun, so easy to drive and drive fast. Can't can't can't wait to run it in a race. Can't believe more people 4 wheel buggy isn't a more popular class.
Crashed a bunch of times and she held up like a champ. Though I did break a right front arm. But that was due to the spindle screw backing out, no hinge pin problem here.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

thanks tlr for the care package today!!! I got some new UPDATED hinge pins!

hkrob

iTrader: (18)

Front pivots in stock @ horizon hobbies

TheKman

@Jason_Minich:

I also took mine out for the first time yesterday afternoon, put a full 5800 pack through it and broke nothing! Eveybody I've spoken to has said 'you'll break something on your first outing', I don't see what the fuss is about. My local track has a drop-off adjacent to some jumps, so if you get the jumps wrong you smack straight into the wall of the drop-off... I did it twice!?!

Awesome bit of kit, little bit on the understeery side out of the box. Will be racing it *very* soon.

TheKman

I wonder if anyone else has had a bent chassis out of the box? Mine has about 0.5-1 degree of twist. During the build I noticed it but didn't think it was going to be a problem. With winter here I'm thinking I'll have time to try to straighten it out. Any suggestions? I'm thinking a simple clamp jig will suffice.

canbarelyhover

iTrader: (3)

I have a slightly bent chassis as well. very noticible when car is viewed from the back.

if you contact horizon, i'm sure they'll take care of you.

I talked with horizon on the phone about it and they were very responsive. I was supposed to send a picture but never followed up. still on my to do list....

1badgoat

Your chassis isn't bent. You tweaked your chassis by overtightening the motor clamp screws.
Loosen the motor clamp. Twist the chassis back and forth. Be sure the tweak is out then tighten the motor clamp screws backup. Watch that you don't over tighten them.

shumway

iTrader: (2)

I had mine out at practice a few times, lapping the ebuggys, havent raced it yet, running locked clicker...love it

darkstar1974

iTrader: (34)

Anyone else having a problem w the motor moving and shredding spur gears? I used the car for 2-3 mos w no issues, now everytime I go out the motor eventually moves and strips the spur. The piece that mounts to the motor is on tight and i lock down the motor clamp as well. My LHS nor I can figure out why this keeps happening.

Any ideas?


Then I'm left w the wonderful task of changing the spur on this thing. Please tell me someone has a better way to do it then taking the entire drivetrain apart, like i've been doing.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

1badgoat

Did you change the bearings on the shaft? Once you set the mesh properly, use a sharpie to place a mark from the motor plate to the upper clamp. If the motor moves during your run then the mark will no longer line up.