Beau S

iTrader: (2)

Carpets hard on everything! lol I remember when we actual broke rx crystals from pan cans tacking walls.

Q: for my own info.. Did you notice that hinge pin had broke after the arm broke on you? How did the arm break by the front brace or by the bottom of the chassis. And did it do any damage to your bulkhead too?

If would be awesome if anyone else that's broken hinge pins could answer these too!

thanks

rcdave905

Need some setup help. I run my car at a small indoor carpet track and run the kit setup with the top of the rear shocks layed down by one hole, and am running the +1.5 rear hexes. Have clicker locked with red spacer and have the slipper real tight.
The car works pretty well for me, but I drive it like a 2wd instead of the 4wd it is.
I let somebody drive it who normally drives a Durango 4wd buggy, and drives it well.When he drove it hard, he said the car pushes like a pig on power around corners and I noticed it as well. I run yellow Schuie tires front and rear so it shouldn't push.
What can I try to dial it in some more. I was told by one person to install the sway bar kit, and told by somebody else to go from 32.5 (I think that is kit oil) to 40 weight up front.

Any help is appreciated. Like I said I didn't really notice the push as I didn't push it so hard around corners.

Love the car but making slow progress with it. Mind you I let 2 of the tracks best drivers run it, and they turned a few 13.2 laps, and I ran a few 13.7 and 13.8's so I am happy. I did break 2 front arms though and 2 hinge pins, arms right at hinge pin. Only one other guy at the track had a 22-4 and he had problems as well.

Thanks in advance..

toughtrax

iTrader: (25)

Beau I haven't ran mine yet but from the 4 arm breaks I've personally seen was first the pin, up front and nothing else broke or cracked. All the pins have broke by the grub screw groove. The only reason I say the pin first is because you hear a pinging noise first then the crack from the plastic arm.

pedro150

iTrader: (25)

Just out of curiosity how far is everyone screwing that grub screw in, personally i've only screwed mine in as far as i feel it come into contact with the pin, dont know if this is the reason but i've put 2 solid days on mine with no issues and i've hit everything at least once

pedro150

iTrader: (25)

I also bought these the other night but haven't got them yet but they might be worth a try, they will have to be down down abit

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ension-Shaft-2

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

ahhhhh today was a roller coaster with my 22-4 started out AMAZING on the first pack, then a odd glitch developed.... but only when on the gas. After re-soldering the esc, switching esc, and servo it was still there. I finally pulled out he old servo and checked the lead and lone behold it was rubbed raw by the midshaft. time for a new servo. shoppin ahaha the car is too great I just wish I got to run it more today.

Naters

Broke two hinge pins tonight. Luckily I noticed the car not tracking straight on the first break before I did any other damage. Pretty bummed as the second one broke in warm up before the main. Lawn darted the triple and heard the snap. After breaking the first one I removed the grub screw on both sides but still broke it. So, I don't know if the grub screw has anything to do with it.

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

Well I raced mine Friday night and Saturday at AMS Raceway in Grand Blanc without incident. Only had one DNF, and that was due to a stripped servo horn. Dakotah Phend was there and his dad gave me one of his 25t horns since he doesn't use them. The new one felt a little loose too (yes it was the correct spline for my servo) so I put a small piece of electrical tape over the servo output before pressing the horn on. Made it fit much tighter. I am only running a 10.5 motor, while everyone else is running at least a 6.5 turn. Track is a big indoor 1/8th scale track, but I was holding on to my own everywhere except the straight and still not doing too bad there. I think it was actually a good idea to start with a 10.5 since I am new to the class. Looking forward to racing next weekend.

Kaw1000

iTrader: (7)

Folks here are saying that the team guys do not use that grub screw.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I Tq'd oh yeah the kit was all night long all over a 20 lap pace. Man I wanted the 20, 1 fobble will bring you off it though I got a 19/5:01. So in the main I came out like a pro racer on steroids and was a lap on the field then it happened. (Sniffle sniffle) 3 or 4 laps to go and the front belt gave up on me. It brought me to a crawl. Ended up 6th. Grrrrr! Oh the horror of trying to crawl the track and save the race. Well they cant take my TQ from LOL.

36 packs and the front belt went. 2 race days and 2 practice days on it so my guess is a good maintenance regiment would be 30 packs or 3 race days then inspect the belts. Diffs are still pretty smooth but I may rebuild them as well while its apart...

Note:: a good idea for TLR would be small belt packaging and a rear belt package.

Overall the kit is as fast and getting faster than my 44.2. Now that I have spent some quality time with this kit I realize the difference in the drive train and how it feels. The rotation of the belts and lay shaft in line with the rotation off the kit vs. the spinning rotation on a shaft drive. The 22.4 is flat out a better jumper and on power is much more stable. Off power the kit has the ability to come in hotter under braking. I never saw a kit hang on to the track like this thing. In the 3rd round all I heard was its loose its loose and in the 44.2 it would be. Get this in the dry (hard packed) I had my best run...LOL never even noticed how loose it was. My 44.2 would have been slow in that round...

Whitey_Wangster

Cracked my nail trying to put the front body clip on my TLR 22-4 last night. TLR could you please come up with a fix?

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

The fix is to cut the nose off the front of the body and not run the front clip. Allows more airflow into the body too.

Bivens

um...why? sounds like a little soldering and shrink wrap can splice that right back up.....new servo because of a chafed wire....I don't think so...may even give you a chance to make the wire JUST the right length....

FLYINGBRIAN

22-4 this car is the Shi mo. Thank you Tlr.

Whitey_Wangster

Thanks, speedfreak I tried that and it caused me to break a front hinge pin.