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Old 02-28-2017, 10:56 AM
  #11086  
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Originally Posted by DWheels
What does your front end setup look like? (Ackermann/camber link)?



Stock positions on the Front end except the camber link is in the inside hole from stock outside hole on the bulkhead Ackermann is stock I'm pretty sure and some toe out on the front .

Last edited by tc5 man; 02-28-2017 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 03-01-2017, 09:58 AM
  #11087  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Stock positions on the Front end except the camber link is in the inside hole from stock outside hole on the bulkhead Ackermann is stock I'm pretty sure and some toe out on the front .
Maybe raise the camber link a bit on the tower side? This should take away some steering. Also going to Ackermann plate 5 or 6 should help smooth out the steering.
The rear camber link also effects how the car steers. Maybe try going to the 3 hole on the hub?
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:36 PM
  #11088  
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Slapping a set of D413 a arms on a vintage wheeler thus I can't remember the size of the flat head screws used to secure the stock a arm stiffener plates. Will be using CA as well.

Than you
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Old 03-02-2017, 03:48 AM
  #11089  
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Default Looking for setup help

Looking for a good 13.5 setup

I got the schelle chassis and stock pistons and I believe stock springs.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you.

Running on high bite clay and medium to high bite as well.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:22 AM
  #11090  
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one thing I noticed about the current Ronnefalk setup for carpet and the setup sheet is the sheet is measuring the entire shock length, but his numbers are using the old sheet method of shock length.

Is there an advantage one way over the other?

Man I hope exotek or someone can look into making a split center diff. would be killer.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:41 AM
  #11091  
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Originally Posted by GETDAT
Looking for a good 13.5 setup

I got the schelle chassis and stock pistons and I believe stock springs.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you.

Running on high bite clay and medium to high bite as well.
A great resource for setups is PetitRC . Mitchel Kauppila has a 13.5 setup on there that might not be a bad starting point. I am not sure about running 1 million wt diff oil but you will want at least 100K.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:50 AM
  #11092  
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Originally Posted by Cain
one thing I noticed about the current Ronnefalk setup for carpet and the setup sheet is the sheet is measuring the entire shock length, but his numbers are using the old sheet method of shock length.

Is there an advantage one way over the other?

Man I hope exotek or someone can look into making a split center diff. would be killer.
I don't think there is necessarily an advantage to a different method of measuring. I think the way he measures better illustrates how many lines are exposed at the bottom of the shock.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:58 AM
  #11093  
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Originally Posted by DWheels
... I am not sure about running 1 million wt diff oil but you will want at least 100K.
Will be trying it here, was interesting getting that installed in the center diff . I should have another version just sitting here with a more common weight.

Anyway, so what are some impressions on running the vehicles with the motor up front but still a shorty pack and electronics in the back? How well does it balance, etc and what conditions is this beneficial and why?
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Old 03-02-2017, 08:28 AM
  #11094  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I think most people choose to plug up the hole in the rim and poke a hole in the tire instead to flick any dirt/water out.
cut a sticker that came with your tires and plug hole that way
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Old 03-02-2017, 09:19 AM
  #11095  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I think it may depend on the ESC in question as well as the location you put the ESC.

Speaking of which, what are peoples recent thoughts on running the ESC behind the motor with some of the newer chassis designs like the exotek? I did this on my Rango and liked the feel and balance with the shorty battery.
My RSX is in the rear w saddle pack config
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:22 PM
  #11096  
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Originally Posted by GETDAT
Looking for a good 13.5 setup

I got the schelle chassis and stock pistons and I believe stock springs.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you.

Running on high bite clay and medium to high bite as well.
Also something to check out is the Exotek 68 tooth spur gear. To do this you will also need the mounting plate as well.
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:14 AM
  #11097  
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Looks like tomorrow is the day to get the buggy out there. Looking forward to seeing what is what with it.
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:23 AM
  #11098  
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Im out of town and needing the LONG screws M3X20mm for bulkheads
Did anybody try titanium screws OR find an alternative?
thanks
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:31 AM
  #11099  
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Got to try the 413 out last night love the way it turns but not having luck with the jumps wants to jump nose heavy have the shorty on the right side along with transponder have speed control on left front receiver in back behind motor didn't get through 3 packs of practice and landed nose heavy on right front and broke steering arm and caster block at the same time any ideas this may just be too much for this old guy.
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Old 03-03-2017, 10:57 AM
  #11100  
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Originally Posted by Tas4
Got to try the 413 out last night love the way it turns but not having luck with the jumps wants to jump nose heavy have the shorty on the right side along with transponder have speed control on left front receiver in back behind motor didn't get through 3 packs of practice and landed nose heavy on right front and broke steering arm and caster block at the same time any ideas this may just be too much for this old guy.
This buggy does have a lot of natural drag in it. So anything causing extra drag will almost feel exaggerated. Check the ESC to make sure there isn't any drag brake set. While I was getting used to this buggy I even ran a little push control. Also if the motor gear mesh is set too tight (diff gear mesh too), that could cause some extra drag. Then it's down to looking at bearings or worn out parts.
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