66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
02-22-2017, 08:02 AM
something I have tried based on some suggestions was just to fill the hole with JB weld and that worked as well from what I am seeing, no tooth picks at all.
One reason I am looking also at the 3 x 1.3 holes is that the oils needed get back more into the range of what I have on hand. Some setups when you convert to PT Racing oils are darn near 1000 cst up front with 2 x 1.6 holes.
One reason I am looking also at the 3 x 1.3 holes is that the oils needed get back more into the range of what I have on hand. Some setups when you convert to PT Racing oils are darn near 1000 cst up front with 2 x 1.6 holes.
02-22-2017, 09:18 AM
Cain, what setup are you looking at? 1000cst or 70wt with 2x1.6 has a pretty high pack. The highest I have seen or heard is 60wt or 900cst with 2x1.6 for a small tight carpet track that has small jumps.
What cst do you have to run to achieve the same pack with 3x1.3?
What cst do you have to run to achieve the same pack with 3x1.3?
Last edited by DWheels; 02-22-2017 at 10:06 AM.
02-22-2017, 11:25 AM
HB Racing D4'13 - David Ronnefalk - DHI Cup - Odense - 06-08.01.2017
I run on a small tight indoor carpet track that has some bumpy sections, no monster jumps.
As for what cst to run, offhand don't know as I don't know of a conversion chart out there to use in comparison.
I am planning to start with whatever is the equivalent of 40W front and 35W rear, possibly Losi oil, maybe 50cst less in general. when I get a chance will compare with the setup I have on the vehicle right now. Its kind of a combo of Tys starting slick tire setup and the one I linked.
I am also running the ESC and motor in basically stock shorty positions (ESC up front, motor towards back to balance shorty). The setup I listed uses the motor up front, and I think is using the exotek chassis too (which I have).
what I have on hand goes from a range of 300cst to 750cst by 50cst increments.
02-26-2017, 11:45 PM
Ronnefalk uses the aluminium RedWorkshop +4 chassis. I am using the carbon one from Red and have to say that the latest DHI setup is much better than my own setup has ever been. Also have the three hole pistons not the two holes.
02-27-2017, 08:28 AM
installed the VRP 3 x 1.3 pistons all around. From memory I think I went with 600cst up front and 450cst on the rear, PT Racing oils.
I am doing my setup as close as possible to the last carpet setup from Ronnefalk that i mentioned, within reason as I am not doing the motor up front.
I do like the exotek chassis, however, I think they need to take advantage of what it offers and sell a split center diff mount or something similar (say inserts that come down from top that sandwich in the diff like durango's dex410v5 setup). I think that would really take advantage of the layout as then you can pull the center diff without messing with the screws underneath or fighting with getting the center bones lined up properly.
I don't mind the front and rear diffs so much, those once you get used to it aren't so bad to get too but the center is more of a pain.
Also, on the rear for the camber link positions on the rear "brace", is there an easy way to adjust this? I find I need to take apart the rear tower location to remove the deck the studs mount to. Even if it was say ball studs that could be held still with the included wrenches that would be most helpful. Or, should I just use an L wrench?
Oh, and it was fun to put in 1 million fluid weight lol. Definitely like putty.
So the D413 is ready for battle again, hopefully this Saturday.
By the way, exotek mentioned that a 1.6mm pin is the size I shoudl look for to have a better fit in the clamping front hexes. Anyone know of an 1.6mm diameter pins to buy?
I am doing my setup as close as possible to the last carpet setup from Ronnefalk that i mentioned, within reason as I am not doing the motor up front.
I do like the exotek chassis, however, I think they need to take advantage of what it offers and sell a split center diff mount or something similar (say inserts that come down from top that sandwich in the diff like durango's dex410v5 setup). I think that would really take advantage of the layout as then you can pull the center diff without messing with the screws underneath or fighting with getting the center bones lined up properly.
I don't mind the front and rear diffs so much, those once you get used to it aren't so bad to get too but the center is more of a pain.
Also, on the rear for the camber link positions on the rear "brace", is there an easy way to adjust this? I find I need to take apart the rear tower location to remove the deck the studs mount to. Even if it was say ball studs that could be held still with the included wrenches that would be most helpful. Or, should I just use an L wrench?
Oh, and it was fun to put in 1 million fluid weight lol. Definitely like putty.
So the D413 is ready for battle again, hopefully this Saturday.
By the way, exotek mentioned that a 1.6mm pin is the size I shoudl look for to have a better fit in the clamping front hexes. Anyone know of an 1.6mm diameter pins to buy?
Last edited by Cain; 02-27-2017 at 12:14 PM.
02-27-2017, 12:26 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Schumacher SCHU4390
02-27-2017, 04:44 PM
D 413
It may be on here somewhere but what would a good set up be for a smooth hard packed indoor dirt track be it is a good flowing track traction is usually medium to high when wet they run slicks when dry with a little dust they run dirt webs will be running a shorty with a 6.5
02-27-2017, 06:27 PM
I run on the same kind of track traction wise but with bar type treaded tires . Well it was my first time running this buggy yesterday so I'm still testing things on it.
But heres what i ran 21mm ride height with 3x1.3 pistons 37w/35w camber at 1/2 degree and some toe out up front and the front camber link on the tower in the inside hole everything else is stock . You will likely want to limit the droop because its to much of it tons of body body roll/weight transfer and calm down the aggressive turn in .
But heres what i ran 21mm ride height with 3x1.3 pistons 37w/35w camber at 1/2 degree and some toe out up front and the front camber link on the tower in the inside hole everything else is stock . You will likely want to limit the droop because its to much of it tons of body body roll/weight transfer and calm down the aggressive turn in .
02-28-2017, 06:28 AM
I run on the same kind of track traction wise but with bar type treaded tires . Well it was my first time running this buggy yesterday so I'm still testing things on it.
But heres what i ran 21mm ride height with 3x1.3 pistons 37w/35w camber at 1/2 degree and some toe out up front and the front camber link on the tower in the inside hole everything else is stock . You will likely want to limit the droop because its to much of it tons of body body roll/weight transfer and calm down the aggressive turn in .
But heres what i ran 21mm ride height with 3x1.3 pistons 37w/35w camber at 1/2 degree and some toe out up front and the front camber link on the tower in the inside hole everything else is stock . You will likely want to limit the droop because its to much of it tons of body body roll/weight transfer and calm down the aggressive turn in .
how did you like the piston setup?
02-28-2017, 07:50 AM
Cain, VRP pistions are the way to go, they definitely give an advantage. And I also run the Exotek chassis, while the center diff isn't split for easy changing, I find it much easier than the stock chassis to pull the center diff, due to the lack of top decks.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
02-28-2017, 08:38 AM
Cain, VRP pistions are the way to go, they definitely give an advantage. And I also run the Exotek chassis, while the center diff isn't split for easy changing, I find it much easier than the stock chassis to pull the center diff, due to the lack of top decks.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
I agree the Exotek chassis is definitely an improvement, I just hope that Exotek can take another look at the vehicle and see about improving the center diff access as that is pretty much my only real issue with maintenance on the car that I feel could be done much better.
Running eyelets fully threaded here. The car definitely feels like it was setup to be a beast outdoors with the amount of shock travel etc. Not saying it won't be indoors, just some interesting things seen.
Have you heard anything about any specific new parts that we may see in the future like the center slipper setup?
02-28-2017, 09:48 AM
Cain, VRP pistions are the way to go, they definitely give an advantage. And I also run the Exotek chassis, while the center diff isn't split for easy changing, I find it much easier than the stock chassis to pull the center diff, due to the lack of top decks.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
TC5 man is right, this buggy does have a lot of body roll. So I always run limiters in the shock bodies. Typically 2mm limiters up front and 1-2mm in the rear depending on how rough a track is. And then also adjust the shock eyelet to hide all the lines or expose just 1 of the lines, (up travel).
Tas4, on a good smooth flowing track I'd would be starting with a 2 hole piston setup. A higher amount of anti-squat and black sway bars wouldn't hurt either.
I try limiting the droop with the shock rod ends treading them to the 1 line first thinking that would help with the pitching also and cut down on the aggressive turn in . I been running 2wd buggy mod buggy so it took me a bit to get used to 4wd buggy .
Cain : I dint run the 4 hole pistions so its hard to say if the 3 hole was better on not but it landed good even over clearing a triple jump dint hear any slapping dint bounce to much . But I'm running 37/35 Associated oils with stock diff oil setup.
02-28-2017, 10:35 AM
What does your front end setup look like? (Ackermann/camber link)?
02-28-2017, 10:37 AM
02-28-2017, 10:49 AM
I will say, I do miss being able to adjust droop via screws. It was a nice touch that the durango vehicles have.