subzero2k

In the front purple with 600 oil and orange with 500 in the back.
I the explaining of his setup he says 100 - 150cps more for Carpet.
I only have cps not wt, sorry.

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

Not sure how accurate the conversions are but I use this as a reference.
http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

Looking for a little help. I just bought a used zx6 and am wondering what parts break regularly or easier than others ? I keep hearing that the zx6 isn't very durable so I would like to know what spares to keep on hand or what parts to change out. Thanks .

eper

iTrader: (14)

so far mines been fairly durable but arms are always good to have on hand. the outdrives seem to chip easy so id get a set or 2 to have on hand. and so far thats really all ive seen with a possiblity or breakage. good luck with it

RobsRacin

iTrader: (13)

In addition to what eper said, I would include diff bevel gears. I chipped a tooth off on both my front and rears. I would also suggest a front tower, as well as the bulkheads as I kept pulling out the ballstuds in big crashes making the mounting location useless

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

Thanks guys , I hope I don't have too many issues with breakage. I've had good luck with all the other brands I've drove so far so .

Holmberg418

iTrader: (10)

Try using longer ball studs and putting set screws in the holes you are not using.

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

Every car has it quirks,
The ZX6 is not different
First 3mm grub screws, use them in all unused ball stud/camber link locations. You'll likely need 10 of them if you have the alum rear hubs, 12 if you have the plastic ones. That alone helps the durability over all.

Front tower, I'd have at least a couple. They're not brittle, but will break if hit/crashed right

Front arms, again not brittle, but will break probably the most often if you're hitting pipes.

Front inner hinge pins, usually if you take out a front arm, you'll most likely bend one of these, and could break it

Ball diffs, extra ring an pinions are a must, more so for the rear as that seems to be the one that'll go first. Proper shimming of the ring and pinion, slipper setting, and trying to not land wide open on the throttle seem to help keep them from going out too fast. You could also go with the gear diffs as an upgrade, they have all metal ring and pinions.

For the out drives,
I'd grease them some and keep an eye on them, I haven't really chipped mine, but sometimes when the stock pins wear a little, they'll have a little lip at the top that'll chip the out drive edge.

Other thank that, most other things I can think of are either more preference or set up based.
Like, RB6 rear arms, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 rear sway bars (1.4mm is the one you'd likely need over the kit one), or things like that.

RobsRacin

iTrader: (13)

That is what I ended up doing but in kit setup it was happening to me

Coach Townsend

iTrader: (6)

Running 13.5 what is a good gearing

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

I run 26/78

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

Has anyone mounted the steering servo in a position other than on the left front corner? I am currently experimenting with the new HD chassis mounting the servo straight on the right side corner of the car. Considering moving the servo to sideways on the right side corner ?

Tony Marks

iTrader: (8)

I run my servo on the right side, with the esc and motor in line with each other. I like the set up!

eper

iTrader: (14)

me too

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

I am switching from a 6.5t motor to an 8.5t can someone recommend gearing? I currently run 18/78 with the 6.5 should I change the gearing for the 8.5t on a smaller track????thx!