Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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#2416
#2419
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
Definitely could do that, could also run a carbon top plate too. I guess I was just trying to figure out if I missed something obvious or if using the ZX7 mount requires other parts to be changed. I thought it would be a part for part direct replacement but doesn't seem to be the case.
Last edited by soulstice; 07-14-2020 at 02:03 PM.
#2420
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I like the changes most I have done. I have been running gull wing arms on one of mine with AE hub carrier and knuckles and with gear difs and slipper is the only way to go would of like to seen updated ballcups and balls so you don't have to drill or replace them with lundsford but that's trivial would of liked to see provisions for motor fan mounting for the stock classes but it should be a step in the right direction
#2422
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
A little late to the party here but just gotten a 6.6 kit. Is running the stock centre diff with fr/rr geared diffs OK for a bumpy dirt track? If yes, what oil combo would be a good starting point?
If no, would the centre diff work well with the kit ball diffs or do I need to get the centre slipper clutch setup?
Thanks.
If no, would the centre diff work well with the kit ball diffs or do I need to get the centre slipper clutch setup?
Thanks.
#2423
Tech Regular
A little late to the party here but just gotten a 6.6 kit. Is running the stock centre diff with fr/rr geared diffs OK for a bumpy dirt track? If yes, what oil combo would be a good starting point?
If no, would the centre diff work well with the kit ball diffs or do I need to get the centre slipper clutch setup?
Thanks.
If no, would the centre diff work well with the kit ball diffs or do I need to get the centre slipper clutch setup?
Thanks.
I would try 100k centre and around 3k rear and 5k - 7k front to start.
#2424
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
I think you can run all 3 gear diffs, I wouldn't go for the slipper. I used to run a ZX6 with centre slipper and gear diffs front and rear. The centre gear diff would have been better though. This is a bumpy dirt outdoor track. While ball diffs seem to be preferred for low grip, I find gears easier as they don't require adjusting, just change the oil. I have switched to an HB D418 and that has centre gear diff and gear diffs front and rear.
I would try 100k centre and around 3k rear and 5k - 7k front to start.
I would try 100k centre and around 3k rear and 5k - 7k front to start.
#2425
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Picked up a used ZX6 to ZX6.6 conversion from the forums (thanks speed90!). Planning to use it at the backyard track and some occasional club racing on clay. Has the ZX6.6 chassis, center gear diff, floating servo mount, and ball diffs front/rear. Went with a Hobbywing Ezrun Max10 60a 5400kV waterproof system so I can use it on days like this! Seems like the Hobbywing system should have enough speed for 4wd mod, though its hard to tell right now with the low traction.
#2426
Tech Rookie
Servo on opposite side
Hi Team,
know the post has been dormant for a while but how did you mount your servo on the rh side of the vechile? Also I'm building the 6.6 for stock racing planning on running the ball diffs for less rotational mass, how light did you get yours.
know the post has been dormant for a while but how did you mount your servo on the rh side of the vechile? Also I'm building the 6.6 for stock racing planning on running the ball diffs for less rotational mass, how light did you get yours.
#2428
I have a ZX6 and I flipped my servo to the RH side, IIRC I had to modify the mount, which is not the floating one, it's the diamond shaped one.
#2429
Picked up a used ZX6 to ZX6.6 conversion from the forums (thanks speed90!). Planning to use it at the backyard track and some occasional club racing on clay. Has the ZX6.6 chassis, center gear diff, floating servo mount, and ball diffs front/rear. Went with a Hobbywing Ezrun Max10 60a 5400kV waterproof system so I can use it on days like this! Seems like the Hobbywing system should have enough speed for 4wd mod, though its hard to tell right now with the low traction.
#2430
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
kyosho steel is the most interesting. Just be sure to properly dry it out and oil all the steel bits... kyosho steel can and will rust... still pretty tough... but things are less peachy when rusted.^^ btw... since the beginning... you know its proper kyosho when the steel rusts... hahaha
I have a TLR, Traxxas, and AE cars that has rusted metal. Metal rusts. The only thing that will keep it from rusting is the coating. I haven't seen a difference in one brand being better than the other.