Tekno=Awesome customer support
 

I found one defective dogbone on my ET yesterday and Tekno has already shipped out (4) new ones to me. This truggy is it. Tekno's customer support is second to none. I'm a Tekno guy for life.

Ok guys I decided I am going to go with the tekin rx8 but I have one more question. I want the truck to be fast... I will run 5s most of the time sometimes 4s. It is between the 1700kv or 2000 kv Truggy motors. On the tekin site they say 5s to run the 1700 a 4s 2000kv. Would it not be a smart idea to use the 2000kv with 5s? Also if I went with the 1700 what pinion size do u think I should use to gear it to about te same speed as the 2000kv motor? I just don't want to get the 1700 and not enhappy with the speed it produces. Or do u think I am over thinking this?
Also wondering how esc tuning works is there some linkup part to buy that allows u to make changes like the mamba monster?

I like the AKA I beams in a medium compound for bashing and early morning soft track conditions. Not as badass looking as badlands but probably more practical for more surfaces.

I just found a black wheel with tires mounted for about $50 from a seller on eBay called suprasales. They are called yoko tires. Anybody eve used them? But i was also looking at the I-beams in medium. Seemed like a good choice.

I started puttin my kit together and I ran into a little problem. In the diff the orange oring goes around the outdrive shaft then the black shim goes over that then u slide the pin thru the hole in the outdrive. Well mine is way to tight with that black shim in place. I can barely get the pin in and when I do it's hard to turn the outdrive cup. What should I do there? This is on the fr/rr diff. Center went together fine. Should I just leave the black shim piece off? This is on the gear side. Inside the diff cup goes together fine like it should

This is from a previous post of mine...I am running an SMC 4S 6700/60C with an RX8/2000 KV truggy motor combo. I have it turned down to 30% and it's faster than any nitro truggy at the track. It's as fast as I can possibly use. I can more than clear the largest triple on the track. Unless you have a really crappy 5S battery I can't imagine using more than 1500-1700 KV with that voltage.

I would go with what Tekin recommends, they know what they're talking about. Power is awesome with 4S/2000 truggy motor.

Regarding 5s I have been running 1700kv motors (approx.) most of the time during the past years. Due to their torque they are fun to ride, like the losi 1700 which is very strong from the bottom. Currently I run a TP motor w. 1750 Kv on 5s, strong and cool. It is also a question of taste, the charactertistic is different to a 2200kv motor.

I have a question about the servo saver:

Question:
How do others set-up the servo saver when building the kit?

I have now had the same issue with two different servos (JR and Savox). The "core" gets really sloppy after a while. If I grab the gear where you put your servo horn onto - I am able to wiggle it back and forth making the steering kinda sloppy.


When I put mine together about a year ago I was told to just tighten it down all the way... I am wondering if loosening up that spring would soak up some of the "bumps" thus keeping my servo from getting too much tension and therefore damaging it... :confused:

You have to have the shim. I would contact Tekno that's strange.

What servo horn are you running? The Hot Bodies horn in particular puts more stress on the servo than a horn that has the link mounted on top.

i have the same issue. what email did you contact?

Yea. Either it seemed like something on the gear was off. Either that little lip that the shim sat on was slightly too thick or the lip on the other side where the bearing sits was too long. Cause the shim was same thickness as all others and I tried other outdrive too and it was only a problem on that specific gear. I stuck the pin in my drill chuck and ran sand paper on it as took off about .15mm and I got it pretty smooth.
I am also noticing that the center diff isn't real smooth when I turn it. It's a little notchy. You think that is ok? Maybe once the geara run on each other they will smooth out some? I was expecting tem to be like butter. The ofna hyper7 diffs I used on my eMaxx build were so smooth and that what I was expecting. But both the case. The fluid I used in the ofnas was thicker too so that may have a little to do with it.
Now that I'm thinking about it maybe I still should contact tekno about that pin issue anyways.

The 3.8's are the ones you would go with. Badlands have amazing traction.

Use this calculator for comparing different kv motors with different pinion sizes.

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

I wouldn't cheap out on tires and wheels because sometimes they can be made very poorly and fall apart. AKA, Proline, etc, make good stuff.

The bearing is fully seated? The shim is completely flat?

Yes bearing was seated and shim was flat. This drove me nuts for like an hour last night. So about the center diff... Why isn't it as smooth as the other diffs?

Ya I think I'll stick with aka or proline like u said. Either I'll get the +2mm hexes or get te tires and a 4" Truggy wheel and moun em myself. Has anyone used the DE colored wheels? I like the green and orange ones. Something different. But are they good quality?

I don't get how to use those calculators. I just don't know how to determine the diff ratios and stuff for the drop down boxes.

Servo savor setup
 

Set it up exactly how Tekno says to do it. Tighten it down all the way and then back it off 4 full turns. I run a Protek 170T on high voltage which is 630 oz/in of torque and no problems.