I like Cityblocks on the track too but I don't think they would last 5 minutes bashing on mixed surfaces. Especially in the soft compounds most people run for racing.

Bad idea?

To be honest a lot of the truggies actually come across as more robust than the monster trucks in bashing situations at times.

Probably because of what they were designed to do to take abuse for hr long mains, etc.

They also can be a simpler design than a MT.

that said, I personally picked up a seperate vehicle to bash mainly as I like to keep my ET48 in race trim. But if I was pressed for cost, I probably would just do the ET48 and have it do double duty.

Ok, thanks.
Which are better?
Trenchers or Badlands?

I would say if you run on more solid surfaces, you want something with more tread so you don't burn out the pins as fast, so a trencher over a badland at that point to me at least.

Though, the rc4wd mud slingers look awesome!

I used to have a traxxas e maxx for bashing. It was so problematic in terms of durability. Then, i switched to xray xt8 truggy for bashing. I could not be happier, more stable and more fun with 50k center diff. If i do the collisions, that i do with xray, with e maxx, i would always be buying new parts to repair it. So, truggy is generally (compared to traxxas absolutely) better than mt for bashing.

I have been using proline badlands tires on my xray. Those tires are very well glued and balanced tires. I am driving it on brass generally. therefore, traction is very nice as well. However, i dont push them hard on hard surface. Nobody wants to replace a set of 100usd tires within a short period of time.

Aren't that trenchers too wide? They seem to be 1.7 times more wide than AKA tires, I guess...

tower has a deal on the 3.8 badlands right now.

They are wider but they are usually run on rims that have 1/2" more offset. So if you were worried about them hitting the body or causing steering interference they shouldn't.

Yea I always hear people saying to buy Traxxas for bashing, but racing class cars always are more durable. Traxxas is just an expensive version of walmart RC to me. If you want something that will hold up Teckno is is a fine choice. Kit will cost more but will save you money and ruined outings in the long run. Can still put in cheaper electronics.

I think best bet for bashing is the ET48 especially if you can find one used.

Not to be a jerk, and of course I don't know what your daughter's skill level is so not directly commenting on you, but I would discourage getting kids into racing with any 1/8 scale. 1/10 SCT is perfect for that purpose.

These things can really hurt someone and really even adults shouldn't be racing these things until they have the ability to hold the line and can run at a decent pace.

I've seen too many cars broken hitting someone doing a sudden 90deg turn in the straight, or running up on them and launching off the track (indoors) and someone letting what looked to be a 6 year old run a nitro truggy that was basically just a rolling speedbump and running the marshals ragged dodging it to save their ankles and flipping it over 2-3 times a lap while people racing for position are stuck upside down.

I get that everyone has to start somewhere and we need to encourage new racers, but most tracks are only one lawsuit away from shutting down for good, so have to keep it safe.

I've seen it happen... and the ultimate shame is the insurance company wanted to go after the young man and his parents. Just something to think about ;)

The truth of matter is it on me to set the vehicle up for her to be a speed she can control, which is exactly what was done with her Tekno SCT410 when she had it. You can see videos on it on youtube.

No offense though taken on your comment, I get what you mean.

IMHO, the real problem we see at tracks are vehicles not setup properly for someones skill level to control. Without that being done first, any vehicle can be a danger to anyone on the track.

Take it from someone who took a truggy to the face once and still had all the teeth to talk about it afterwards, luckily :D

Personally I feel that the "mod" default of these classes may need to be examined, slow things down, etc.

Heck, I wouldn't mind the equivalent of a VTA style of motor speed for these vehicles, as they take a beating already at these speeds, and with them being 4wd are easier to control from the get go for someone new. That is why when my daugther tried offroad, I had her go with an SCT410, didn't want to spend her driving time that we don't get much of fighting traction issues with the car.

I know in the long run, better for her, but at the same time, having fun and not fighting handling issues keeps her running, others too.

Sometimes the best enjoyment of RC is just driving the car, not wrenching for some people.

Most younger kids in my area are running 8th scales, de-tuned of course. 2wd anything outdoor is dead, 4wd SC used to be a lot of novice and that is now dead, so they run e buggy or nitro. When set up correctly an 8th scale is no more dangerous than they would be with a SC

TKR6140 Supplemental Instructions:

Hello, we wanted to let our customers know that the newly released spring perches and shock boots require a different procedure when assembling/building them due to the new shock boot design.

For the SCT410, EB48.2, NB48, ET48, NT48:
1. Unthread your current shock rod ends. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft. Remove any o-rings used to limit up travel if any are installed.

2. Install new shock boot onto shaft and secure around shock cartridge cap as shown:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psgokqvloz.jpg
3. Install new rod end as shown in the second image. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psj3o4kmjv.jpg
With the rod end fully tightened down the shock boot should look like this:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psn1atr2zg.jpg
Rebuild the shock like you normally would, just remember that the shock boot will have to be pulled down over the rod end to set rebound and is not able to slide over and off the rod end like the old shock boots.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfnduwwse.jpg
Once you refill with oil and bleed the shock to the desired rebound you can install the shock boot back into the proper position and install the spring, spring perch and use a 1.5mm hex wrench to install the set screw. The set screw is the length of the spring perched and should be flush with the perch when installed as shown
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...pspmvwecve.jpg
That's it, enjoy your new shock boots and spring perches!
-Thomas