1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
08-26-2014, 07:52 PM
#2461
Tech Apprentice
Not trying to start an argument, but I'll have to agree with cement head on this one. I love using double sided tape. Never had an issue ever and if I need to remove it, I just pop it off and get a new piece! I personally don't like drilling into my beautiful chassis either. And, if a screw strips, I'll be cursing more than I would by popping it off with a flat head! Both ideas are great, I just like mine and cement heads better 
08-27-2014, 05:32 AM
#2462
So after making sure my shock ends were screwed all the way in, I noticed the right front a arm falls lower than the left front a arm by about 2mm. I removed the shocks, all of the links and made sure the droop screws were backed all the way off. Still, the right arm falls further than the left. I confirmed the kick up pills were the same on both sides. Any ideas what would cause this?
Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.
08-27-2014, 06:04 AM
#2463
Not trying to start an argument, but I'll have to agree with cement head on this one. I love using double sided tape. Never had an issue ever and if I need to remove it, I just pop it off and get a new piece! I personally don't like drilling into my beautiful chassis either. And, if a screw strips, I'll be cursing more than I would by popping it off with a flat head! Both ideas are great, I just like mine and cement heads better
You really ought to come up with a better argument against mounting with screws: anyone who strips a screw going into 1/8" of plastic isn't competent to drive an RC car.
I can see the argument of not wanting to drill through your chassis - not everyone has the tools to do this without kluging it up.
08-27-2014, 06:55 AM
#2464
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
I stripped everything down to the chassis and found the a arm to be tweaked causing the difference in droop measurements. Replaced the arm and now both measure the same.
Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.
Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.
08-27-2014, 01:20 PM
#2465
I stripped everything down to the chassis and found the a arm to be tweaked causing the difference in droop measurements. Replaced the arm and now both measure the same.
Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.
Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.
08-27-2014, 05:29 PM
#2466
Thank you RandyJones and 071crazy. I suspected the 2.0 might be different but I had not been able to find any information to the contrary. This makes more sense.
08-28-2014, 01:17 PM
#2469
Certainly each to his own. I have always used some kind of flexible mount on my 1/8th ESCs. The "servo" tape I use is the gray 3M stuff and my opinion is that it doesn't provide sufficient shock protection.
You really ought to come up with a better argument against mounting with screws: anyone who strips a screw going into 1/8" of plastic isn't competent to drive an RC car.
I can see the argument of not wanting to drill through your chassis - not everyone has the tools to do this without kluging it up.
You really ought to come up with a better argument against mounting with screws: anyone who strips a screw going into 1/8" of plastic isn't competent to drive an RC car.
I can see the argument of not wanting to drill through your chassis - not everyone has the tools to do this without kluging it up.
But then one day I tried doubling up the grey 3M double sided tape and that was over 2 years ago... and I don't plan on ever going back.
It's simple and I have experienced the same success with doubling up the tape just like when I mounted it securely via the chassis...
Like the old sayings goes 'more than one way...' and 'if it ain't broke'.
As long as your finishing races and your equipment keeps ticking then keep doing whatever works for you, so I agree 'to each his own'.
08-28-2014, 10:49 PM
#2470
What springs are you guys running in the front of your 3.0 E? I bought mine second hand and it has black springs in the front. Even with the collar fully cranked they do not seem stiff enough.
08-29-2014, 08:58 PM
#2473
My front diff is more free than the rear using the same diff fluid, so I figure I didn't fill the front as much. Is it ok to fill them completely? That would make it easier to get them equal.
08-29-2014, 09:05 PM
#2474
Here is a great diff building video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbOfV5J5Z0k
Lube the ring and pinon gear with Casper-RC Extreme grease!