Not trying to start an argument, but I'll have to agree with cement head on this one. I love using double sided tape. Never had an issue ever and if I need to remove it, I just pop it off and get a new piece! I personally don't like drilling into my beautiful chassis either. And, if a screw strips, I'll be cursing more than I would by popping it off with a flat head! Both ideas are great, I just like mine and cement heads better

I stripped everything down to the chassis and found the a arm to be tweaked causing the difference in droop measurements. Replaced the arm and now both measure the same.

Now, setting the front droop to 95mm as measured from top center to bottom center of the shock mount screws has very little droop. The a arms are nearly level when the car is elevated. This looks like less droop than Drakes car in his YouTube suspension video.

Certainly each to his own. I have always used some kind of flexible mount on my 1/8th ESCs. The "servo" tape I use is the gray 3M stuff and my opinion is that it doesn't provide sufficient shock protection.

You really ought to come up with a better argument against mounting with screws: anyone who strips a screw going into 1/8" of plastic isn't competent to drive an RC car.

I can see the argument of not wanting to drill through your chassis - not everyone has the tools to do this without kluging it up.

Not sure where you got 95mm for droop but we run 103.5mm in front and 114.5mm in back. Put your front like ours and you will have the droop

95mm is the droop setting on the 2.0 cars.

Thank you RandyJones and 071crazy. I suspected the 2.0 might be different but I had not been able to find any information to the contrary. This makes more sense.

No prob!! Anytime!!

Anybody running the jconcepts silencer body know whether it allows for more space for the wires and esc? Just a couple of fun days on the stock body and the paint is already rubbed off in some spots.

Felt the same about 3M not having enough shock protection and started the drilling thing too to securely mounting my esc's (via my benchtop mill).
But then one day I tried doubling up the grey 3M double sided tape and that was over 2 years ago... and I don't plan on ever going back.
It's simple and I have experienced the same success with doubling up the tape just like when I mounted it securely via the chassis...
Like the old sayings goes 'more than one way...' and 'if it ain't broke'.
As long as your finishing races and your equipment keeps ticking then keep doing whatever works for you, so I agree 'to each his own'.

What springs are you guys running in the front of your 3.0 E? I bought mine second hand and it has black springs in the front. Even with the collar fully cranked they do not seem stiff enough.

I use silver front and back.
For ESC sticking. I use two pieces of the tape. IT/Low Voltage Contractors have a foam two sided tape that sticks great.

I am wondering the same thing. How roomy are these bodies and how are they holding up?

My front diff is more free than the rear using the same diff fluid, so I figure I didn't fill the front as much. Is it ok to fill them completely? That would make it easier to get them equal.

Yes fill them all the way.
Here is a great diff building video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbOfV5J5Z0k

Lube the ring and pinon gear with Casper-RC Extreme grease!

Nobody answered so I just went down to my lhs and got one. They do indeed provide more space albeit not a lot more. Haven't taken it to the track as I just painted it today but I do like the look.