wittyname

iTrader: (4)

So now that the E buggy has been out for a while , If someone were interested in racing would they be better off converting a Nitro chassis with the conversion kit , or getting the actual E buggy and using it with the battery forward ? Is the chassis width and radio tray better in one or the other ?

The wider nitro chassis seems like it may add a bit of consistency

buster8787

Ok guys, I have the RTR and like the name says, ready to replace. I broke a shock cap first time out and replaced it with the metal ones. The metal ones have a small hole in them. Should these be plugged ? No bladder or screws came with the caps. Don't know what I missed.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Did your plastic caps not have the bladders in them ? I have no personal experience with the losi rtr, but when I have changed caps in the past you re used the seals and bladders.

buster8787

there are screws in the plastic ones that are probably twice as big as the holes in the metal caps. The holes in the metal ones are about the thickness of a pin. And no bladders. Getting ready to put some silicone and plug them.

Not very happy with this buggy. Hope you are listening LOSI. Cheap servo, cheap shock caps are all that I have found that is crap so far and is this is anything what to expect, should be lots more and it has one race on it.

kaktis

Heya,

Yeah, you'll need to buy the bladders separately.. plastic shocks don't have them, neither do the aluminium ones.
No need to plug the hole, that's just to bleed excess oil if I'm not mistaken.

And yes, you'll definitely want to replace the servo... mine lasted a few outings, but was slow and not torquey enough.

Might want to go over it and tighten any screws that need it too... a couple of mine were loose after a couple of runs.
Also followed the advice elsewhere in this thread about squeeszing the ball cups to free them up a bit. Worked a treat.

Trugga

One of the guys at my track got the RTR and is in the process of upgrading all the differing rtr parts to kit parts, only keeping the chassis plate... (rtr is 6061 vs kit is 7075 aluminium...)
I umm'd and agh'd about whether to get the rtr and VERY glad I went with the kit.
I don't think the rtr was ever meant for racing.........

buster8787

Ok, I thought no bladders was strange. Like I said LOSI, gotta start thinking about a TECKNO because of this buggy. Really not happy with this. I would have been very happy to pay an xtra $100 or so for some stuff that is usable. THis is very poor in my opinion and it will have a bearing on my next purchase. Now I have to start looking for the bladders and possibly miss my weekend long race over a 20 cent part. (yes I know how much they cost retail). I ran the rear shocks out of oil because out these little holes and oil is obviously everywhere. I'm going to plug them.

Thanks for the help guys. It's mostly what I suspected but really

stanson

You have an RTR which is different from the kit in many ways. Losi 3.0e KIT has aluminium shock caps with bladders.

dblhelx

iTrader: (2)

Consequences of buying the rtr. The kit version is amazing, very high quality. I never understood why people buy rtr if they have intentions of racing. For me, 80% of the fun is building them.

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

I personally have ran both and I thought the nitro converted was easier to drive, but the E car is in my opinion simply the better & faster car to drive, but with the right setup the are both very good, and the Nitro converted is probably the more consisted car, because everything is more spread out allow more flex (I would think not 100% sure though. Believe it or not the Nitro chassis is not wider that the E chassis its only the side guards that make it wider.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

FYI tekno also have plastic shock caps.

And plugging those holes will do you No good when you do eventually get blatters as running Alum Caps without out blatter's isn't how they were designed to work (as you found out and Wont Work without out blatters)


Your going through all the Normal teething issues with a RTR, Sorry to sound harsh but it Aint losi's fault one bit.


Local racer's WILL HAVE spare blatters on hand, Show up to the track and find a Losi guy, he will help you out.

MasiisaM

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to sound harsh..but it really sounds like you have a lack of experience in this hobby and blaming someone else for your issues.

RTR are turn key products for someone new into this hobby. They will never be up to the same QC as the kits. RTR are designed to get you into the hobby at a less expensive price point, enjoy the car for it's intended purpose, and move onto a Kit.

I can fully understand it's frustrating. We have all been though it. But the solution to grow in experience is not to redirect. You simply lack the basic understanding of how the shock works. Again, that's OK, we have all been there.

That pin hole on the aluminum shock cap is intended to be there. A bladder must be installed for its function to work correctly. The function is to bleed off air and excessive oil when changing/replacing the shock oil.

Take a look at this you tube video for the process on how to fill and bleed a bladder shock.

rosko

Just bought the eight e 3.0 when putting the front end together (kick up inserts) I realized I put them in the low position ff/fb and their is no chart for this setting, so is this completely wrong or is it just like running the 0 inserts but just a lower roll center. Car felt great but will change if it shouldn't be ran like this

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Here is the chart for the inserts.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...tion-Sheet.pdf

Now if you can also adjust roll centers by moving the pivot up and down but that was not the intent of the design. Careful with clearances for the arms to the chassis and such.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I am sorry to hear that you broke a part. If you feel it was bad, you can always contact Horizon customer service and they will send you some.

However, a LOT of people have run those caps including myself and havent broken one. Parts do break though and that is why they are sold separately.

If you are looking to switch to a bladder based shock, you will need the aluminum caps and the bladders.