You can dial drag break into the nitro. Just bump over your throttle sub trim to lean on the brake.

this would give me more rear brake bias though, would it not be better to do that on the front?

i actually never tried that cos all the nitro guys said the drivetrain should spin freely at neutral but i guess it can't hurt to try..thanks!

aaah now thats even easier!
thanks casper

Yeah just be careful on not putting too much on there and due to them being mechanical in nature you may need to adjust them a little from time to time as the brakes wear. I played with Nitro cars for a little while With those you get to play with all your throttle settings more. Electric we tend not to touch them and do everythign with the speedo.

+1 glad i switched from tekno.

Cool, glad to hear your liking yours. It's running good on your track? I have been there before and it was really blown out, not to mention the 40mph wind. Lol. My in laws live in Amarillo, so I go there several times a years....

Hello RCTech comunity,


im drinving the 3.0 E since it came out in Gemany end of September last year. I really like the car. Since i found out how to fix the upper link ends to move freely i like it even more.

Last week the NEO race took place in UK and some pics of this event gave a close look on Mr. Drakes car. This aroused some questions.

Question#1:

TLR brings the 3.0 E with a certain layout, why is the probably most known team driver Drake swithing the ESC with the LiPo position? I know that this is about moving the weight bias more frontwards but i don`t get why TLR left that out of consideration in the first place? Is it just relevant when you racing the more heavier 4S1P Lipo config (as i do ) or is it better in general. I don`t have two scales here so i cant measure the current weight bias.

Question#2:

On the picture i`ve attached you can see golden looking hinge pins he was racing on front and rear lower suspension arms. They seem to be a bit different, if not materialwise at least surface treatment wise. The ones which are included in the kit seem to be TiCn treatet which has a Titaniumish dark brown silver appearance?. The reason im asking is that i had to change those hinge pins quite often, even though i don`t crash often or hard, same with some friends of mine.

Question#3
this might belong to a Tekin T8 thread Sorry

as you can see on the pic he was running a clutch system on his T8. I think he always does that but, i can not imagine the benefit of running a clutch system on an E buggy especially when you have an ESC like the RX8 GEN2 where you can tweak the motor "pressure" by changing the parameter "current limit". This parameter, according to a Tekin official, improves handling by cutting away some exessive power only in lower rev areas and has no influence on top speed.


i hope that some of you can help me out a bit.

Thanks in Advance and greetings from Munich


Regards


Florian

ZeGerman, Great questions and I too am waiting for the experts to answer. The hingepins look normal though

Yes, i really could tell a difference in stability in transfer sections/switchbacks, off camber turns, and whoop sections. My eb48 always felt like it was skating on top of the surface amd not really gripping it. The 3.0 has just as much steering and i feel like it's a lot more predictable. I'm glad i switched because i know the car can only get better.

Btw yes we have wind problem here, hence why i got rid of my sct. Heck, today we have 35+mph winds and 40mph gusts.

Here are the best answers I have.

1. Adam was part of the test team for the 8E 3.0 and everyone agreed with the battery layout that came with the kit at the time. That does not mean as you get more time with a car you may not end up testing other configurations.

2. As far as I am aware the base material is the same for the two hingepins. Adam is always testing stuff so you would have to ask him and see what he says if he has something different on his cars. My personal experience is the TiCn is a much better coating although on hingepins it seems to not matter as much.

3. Adam likes the clutch on more blown out tracks as it acts as a slipper. Not totally for reducing bottom end. It is something he has run for a long time and is comfortable with. Can't say how it works from personal experience as I have never tried it but not sure I would like to maintain a clutch on my electric car but that is just me. He runs it so I am sure it works for him.

Regarding your #2 question, maybe Adam Drake ran the hinge pins from the 2.0, they are "golden" coated.

I have raced the E 3.0 for a while, and have changed the front hinge pins quite often. I admit I'm not a pro driver and crash more often, which is when the hinge pins bent.

I have replaced the hinge pins with the ones from the Mugen MBX7 Eco. The part number is:

Lower Arm Shaft. MBX-7 (E2115)

I have not bent them since I have changed to the Mugens.

You could try them to see if it helps you too.

They are a couple of mm shorter, but that is no problem. They also seems to be smoother than the Losi ones, even if they do not seem to be coated with any thing.

Really been enjoying racing my buggy the last couple of months! I have been using Drake’s standard outdoor setup exactly except for 0’s in front. It’s a small outdoor track. I’m at the point where I need to start making changes to the setup for the track I run on. There are 3 tight 180 turns on the current layout. I tap the brakes, set the buggy up for entry, and then it just pushes off power and won’t rotate through the turn. Forward and lateral traction are decent as well as on power steering. Looking for suggestions on how to get the buggy to rotate freely through the 180’s and carry a lot or corner speed off power. Thanks for the suggestions!

are the hinge pins supposed to bind in the arm and rotate in the plastic insert? or should the pins fit smooth in the arm and bind in the insert.

There is less material thus friction where the hinge pins mount at the inserts rather than the a arms. So yeah, the pivot in the inserts.

I think excessive attention is sometimes being paid to every little detail that is seen on the pros cars, and then it is wondered why it doesn't come exactly that way out of the box. The fact of the matter is, even after the extensive testing and trial and error that is done during the development/pre-market phase; changes will be made and a setup/configuation will be provided that most people will find fairly easy to drive and be somewhat competitive with. There are certainly ways to set the car up that will make it "faster", but for average Joe racer to pick up the controller and run the car that way; they could very well find the car to be a handful to drive. I've been running the 3.0 and it is a great car. Out of the box, I find it to be a very neutral handling car. I would even go so far as to say it even pushes a little too much for my personal preference. Swapping the battery and the speedo would certainly assist in remedying that, but a super edgy car where the tail would sweep out in a blink if you got it wrong is not necessarily what the masses need. What is great about this car is that you can tune that aggressiveness into the chassis if it suits your driving style/ability. Experiment a little bit. Find out what you like. Don't just look to carbon copy the pros car because at the end of the day you and that professional are two different people. Use their setups and configurations to see if you like them. If not, use them as guidelines to be tweaked to something that does fit you. Heed the pros advice and words when they are kind enough to offer it; but don't think you've somehow missed out on something simply because their car looks slightly different than your own. This is getting a bit long winded; but I'll wrap this up with a a story. It involves touring cars, but the message is applicable. A few years back, I was running the Hot Bodies TCX when it hit the market. Hara had just won the IIC 17.5 turn class in Vegas which is run on carpet. I thought hmm, I'm running the same car, the same turn motor, and I'm running on carpet too. I copied his setup to a tee and went and hit the track. By the end of my practice session, I thought, I do not know what kind of wildman, RC maniac can control a car like that, but it sure isn't me. The car could be driven lightning fast, it could stick and move big time. But it needed to be driven near perfect or it would get bent out of shape in no time. Anyway, I hope everyone enjoys the 3.0 as much as I have been. It is a great car.