Like i said in another thread, when a product is good, nobody is online complaining about it, they are out running them and enjoying them!

Not many tips from me, get it, build it and run it!

I would maybe go 37.5 up front with your shocks, other than that, your going to love this buggy..

I'm running 5-7-3 diffs, 32fr 30rr oil. Silver springs. 3 rear toe and 2 squat. 1 up 1 down in the front. Car is pretty dialed. I too have a 2.0 scte and love it a lot. This car is a little different but just as drive able if not more then the truck.

Setup will depend on his track.. But yea, your actually driving the 3.0..

I found, if you go to longer screws through the chasi and thred lock the ones into Alu. it holds well.
Hes right never ever run the small shim brace under the rear of motor. When the chasi flexes it pushes the motor out of alignment like hitting it with a Hammer.
Sucks when things strip out
I used the Drake setup to the tee. Workes great. Good starting point, then tune to your track. I needed more tighter turning. So i moved the rear hub foward. I turn under evryone now and can power out of the turns with no fear. Run it, its a blast to drive fast.

Forgot about adding the part about longer screws, i do that by default but i own many Losi's so i do it without thinking about it lol..

I'll try the longer screws thanks! Club race tonight 9 ebuggies I came in 3rd. No video this time though! 3.0 is ripping it up!

Carbon Fiber Towers..

http://www.xtremercracing.com/Produc...10836&pID=1573

http://www.xtremercracing.com/Produc...10835&pID=1572

Just wondering what are the main differences between the 2.0 and 3.0? They look very similar from the pics I've seen.

3.0 has 16mm shocks with new progressive springs. Driveline is now dogbones. Change to front end geometry. More droop. All in all, makes for a very different driving car than the 2.0.

There are a lot of little differences that really add up.

The front end spindles and carriers got an overhaul giving more steering throw and placing the dogbone in a different spot as well as the steering arm. There are new front arms that allow for this more steering.

The front and rear shock towers are new due to the large and longer bog bore shocks. The shocks got some serious work with all machined parts so they are SUPER smooth now. There are new springs as well that are tapered.

The driveline got dogbones which frees things up an helps with wear as well.

The rear wing got a gurney flap

The chassis has more flex for more overall traction and ease of drive.

You get all the goodies you want to use in the box now.

the ackerman arm has ball bearings now.

Car is dialed!

Dialed!

There is a Rear shock tower Mod, Lowering the Rear Link. I will try and find the Pic of Drakes car with the mod. From what I understand you get a 2.0 rear tower. and using it as a template drill new lower link holes. Below is the link to some pic... find the rear of the car and clic the pic to make bigger. Same Mod on Pheds car..... I'm doing it tonight. I will just measure and drill.Try it out this weekend.

http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/06/19/u...-adam-drake-2/

I decided to change my suspension package are and I got my hand on some of my old O'Donnell springs. Since they taper the same I tried them out and the were WAY better than the TLR ones, so if anyone has them I recommend them.

Car was diled today , tried the rear lowered link Mod was nice. It locked the rear in even more yet let it rotate. Started 3rd in the A but ended up 4th... it was a hack fest. I'll get them next time.