Mach2 just means its still 4-8 machs behind :)

What gearing should I use with a boosted 17.5?
I boosted it with the LRP sxx stock spec V2 not on the motor itself.
3/1/3/2
Running 24/81 in my B4.1 but not sure if it's a good gearing?

Quite impressed with the exotek rear hubs so far. plenty of clearance for the big bores since it moves the link back some. Alot less slop atleast so far, put them on for my main and won by a long shot, couldn't believe how much more predictable my car felt. look for a more in depth write up later on. I will say one thing, no washers necessary to space the shock out from the bottom, there is about 3mm clearance with no spacing even with the slightly larger new JC turnbuckles and a huge gap if you leave any spacing on the bottom of your shock. Thumbs up to that!

Well im running that gearing with my 7.5 right now so im guessing you need to go to a 75 spur and start there and maybe even smaller. i have always used motor temps for fine tuning the pinion selection. Hope that helps some, i have never played with timing much.

That seems a bit low does it feel fast? I just figured out gearing on my B4.2 with Tekin Gen1 17.5. I had to go a lot higher then expected. I run 45 boost on my Tekin RS which is pretty high it goes to 55 Boost Max. With 16degrees endbell timing which is default I am geared 75/32. I tried 73/33 and it was too much. 75/32 feels right on the money.

Each motor is very different with endbell timing and kv so same gear on your motor could be wrong.

What kind of motor do you have? Maybe a higher kv motor like a trinity with a bunch on the endbel 24/81 might be ok.

Boosted 17.5 I would start around 72/30-31. All depends on how much boost your running too. With that gearing I was boosted pretty much all the way with the same speedo

Only down fall is no c mounting position.

Hey guys, I figure all the b4 guys are posting in here now. On the v2 shocks, should I stick to the stock o-rings for rebuilds or is there something from another brand that people prefer? Im not leaking, Im just doing a normal rebuild.

set up
 

i race on very high grip clay(liesure hours) last time out for practice the car seemed like the back of the car was rotating too much or too fast. almost like something broke or the inside wheel was locked. except i cant find anything wrong. any ideas?

Check your rear U brace screws are tight and not missing. I had one strip out and the rear would overtwist and spin out. Just a thought.

I ficked up some CRC spray can white lithium grease today. well I bought it to lube the gears in my servos, but IMO it is too thin. I thought it might be good on the idler and center gear in the diff. anyone tried it?

You have to use the thicker grease and put 4 dabs equal distance around the diff gear.

You "have" to? Like it's law?

So i have been running a 22 for about a year now. Im going to try a B4.2 and decide what car to keep. Long pack better? or Shorty better in most cases? reason i ask, if it's anything like my 22 the long pack and shorty pack setups are quite a bit different.

indoor clay, med traction tracks. Pink beams are the tire of choice if that gives you any idea. i know it's a very broad and difficult question to "internet tune", but i would like to hear from some people who have tried both, and why they prefer one over the other.

thanks.

also, forgot to ask, B4.2 and 22 wheels compatible at all? either front or rear? thanks.