No need for a mid motor here so I am glad I don't have to pay for the extra parts I won't be using anyways.

I used a piece of scrap lexan flashing from a body. It's molded at 90 degrees, taped it to the bottom of the chassis with 3m double sided tape, lip toward the front. Then I mounted my esc on top, then inserted a small foam between the esc and the lip on the lexan. Then a normal foam, with the shorty battery all the way forward. Not the cleanest install, but has worked so far. Cheaper than a shelf too.

If the price is in line, I could see buying both. If they try to price is like a Kyosho, I'll get a b5M and keep the 4.2, just sayin'.

Hey all, I hope everyone had a great holiday! Question... 8mm is not that much, is it really worth getting the +8 chassis? I've been customizing by B4.1 and have an extra chassis that is the FT Carbon, yet I've been thinking about the +8.

8mm is a big difference for me. But I'd wait for the B5 to come out before buying anything.

What is waiting for the B5 matter if he doesn't even plan on buying one?

If you race on a tight track, the +8 is not needed. It will give you more stability on a higher speed open track though. It will also help give more stability if you race on low traction surfaces as well.

How are the Lunsford ballcups? How to they compare to RPM? I have RPM on now but bought a Lunsford turnbuckle kit that came with cups.

from stock 2mm front ballstud washer which way gives more roll 3mm or 1mm? and more roll more steering less roll less steering?

Increasing ballstud height will increase roll in the corner. This can increase or decrease steering based on the rest of your setup.

As long as your front tires aren't rolling over on themselves (combo of soft tires and foams), then you'll likely gain a bit more mid-corner steering.

fronts are ss suburbs and stock 2/3 foam.just need more steering it pushes too much for me. according to the guys i talked to my setup is good, but my driving style wants more steering.

I had the same issue but....

I was running ss ribs. I tried adding weight to the tri in the front, further forward under the shock tower. Then I tried camber from zero to -3. Then moved the ball studs in on the tower and out on the hubs. Finnaly ended up having too much steering when I put on SS Suburbs. Here is what I ended up with.

Inner Ball studs on inner holes 1silver and one blue spacer, outers on the outer hole with 30 degree caster blocks.
-1 degree camber
3 chuncks of lead under the front tower (forward one is trimmed to fit perfectly) but none in the tri's.
M3 Suburbs with 1/2 open cell foams.
bottom of the front arms level with full pack.

I don't run any of the carbon stuff. I tried the molded foams but didn't like the high speed steering they had and never used a shorty pack.

Hope this helps.

Messing with ballstud washer height is something I have not messed with yet.

You should! I didn't think it would make a huge difference either. I was completely wrong. Removing the rear ball stud washers combined with decreasing the shock oil (40>35), made the rear end of the car FAR more predictable. Still a little bouncy on some of the sections coming out of the corners, but the track has been neglected since the last rain (last saturday).

high speed is where i have the biggest push,i will try some of the suggestions, also this is low to medium bite indooor