Sorry if this had been said but whats te verdict. Is it better to mount the esc in the middle or on the side and if in the middle what are the noticeable differences?

[sarcasm]That HUGE Difference is exactly .21063"[/sarcasm]
Sorry, had too lol.

[sarcasm]You know, you're probably right. I've been racing 2 cars myself, and wrenching on my son's also...for over a year now. (all 3 associated off-road cars) 2 races a week and we try to get in a practice day too. During that time, the only time I've seen any sort of wear on the shock bodies was when we were using v2's with standard bore springs. On my sc10 the rear springs were rubbing on the shocks. (coil bind) Other than that, NO wear on my camber links, and for sure my links were not contacting my shock bodies. But if the internet pro's say they are, then they must be. I certainly have not seen any evidence of any sort of contact in any of my rigs. maybe I just don't go big enough lolol. Maybe my son and I are just doing it wrong lolol. [/sarcam]

Anyways, in all seriousness...the pro's run these exact shocks, setup the exact same way, and obviously it works well enough to win championships....so I'm gonna roll with it. :batman:

are the ae 12mm springs shorter than the losi 12mm ?

They are pretty close. I have run both and both "fit" fine.

So again, the stiffness from least to most stiff is b4.1 , b44 and then carbon right?

carbon fiber + battery posts = fire
 

Carbon fiber is just as conductive as metal. Be careful. 25 years as composites expert and have seen it many times. If you must use composite, try G-10. Its the stuff circuit boards are made from. Ive actually seen a cabon fiber waterski used to ground a 200 amp tig welder.

+1 I remember batteries shorting on CF in onroad.

I run these hub and it moves the link from the shock and now I have no issues.
http://www.exotekracing.com/b4-b44-s...-rear-hub-set/

Yeah, I kinda wanna try those. I am just worried about snapping off studs on the hub.

I run long ti studs. I did get short bus one night and snaped one but was able to get it out throw the bottom because of the longer studs.

yeah, I was thinking the same. use Ti studs that are a little longer.

those hubs are "A" height hubs correct?

The only issue with thoes is in order to get the c hub position you will need to mill them down. The ball with no spacers =a holes with thoes.

Shock Fit
 

Just a tip for .2 kits:

Built mine Saturday. Fount the black shock cap to blue ball pivot to be extremely tight.
With the blue pivot on the tower, I broke each one in with simple green and exaggerated movement with the shock lowers swinging freely.

Took about a minute per shock, but it removed enough anodizing to keep the sticking to a minimum.

Wipe excess when done.

Go at the tone.

[QUOTE=turbo2cam;11770476][sarcasm]That HUGE Difference is exactly .21063"[/sarcasm]
Sorry, had too lol.

Ya, .21063 out of .25 is huge in my book.

Sorry, I had to also