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SAGISI 02-21-2013 01:10 PM

I wonder how accurate Maifields setup is. On the setup sheet it says hes running 10 gram in each rear triangle and 20 next to receiver. In pictures on redrc.net it looks like hes running 5 grams in each rear triangle and 10 grams next to receiver.

YankeeFan123 02-21-2013 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by onefast8 (Post 11845143)
I'm running the 1.6 BB pistons and I keep blowing out bottom e-clips in the rear. The clip is breaking. Guy was telling me that this is because the piston has play between the e-clips and it can get "jarred" in the body causing the e-clip to blow out.

Anyone have the new machined pistons? Are they a better fit? I plan on replacing both rear shafts (they look 100% fine) to be safe and not sure what to do for pistons...New 1.6 kit pistons?...shim them maybe? or wait for the new machined ones to hit the shelf?

I had that happen two heats back to back a few weeks ago, all I did was replace the e clips after each time they broke and replaced the pistons after the second time, so I guess that was the ticket as it was the same side that kept breaking

Matt Trimmings 02-21-2013 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by onefast8 (Post 11845143)
I'm running the 1.6 BB pistons and I keep blowing out bottom e-clips in the rear. The clip is breaking. Guy was telling me that this is because the piston has play between the e-clips and it can get "jarred" in the body causing the e-clip to blow out.

Anyone have the new machined pistons? Are they a better fit? I plan on replacing both rear shafts (they look 100% fine) to be safe and not sure what to do for pistons...New 1.6 kit pistons?...shim them maybe? or wait for the new machined ones to hit the shelf?

It sounds like the groove that the eclip goes into to secure the piston is oversized...do the eclips go on fairly easy? I would start by replacing the shock shafts. I have never heard of that issue.

BLKHAWK 02-21-2013 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by turbo2cam (Post 11844954)
Make sure the servo arm/linkage isn't hitting anything also. Have you adjusted the endpoints on the radio at all? (stupid question I know...but gotta ask the obvious lol)


It does it with the servo out of the car. Im open to anything at this point im lost lol

Matt Trimmings 02-21-2013 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by BLKHAWK (Post 11845163)
It does it with the servo out of the car. Im open to anything at this point im lost lol

Put up some pictures...maybe getting some eyes on it will trigger something.

Jmuck69 02-21-2013 01:42 PM


Originally Posted by SAGISI (Post 11845146)
I wonder how accurate Maifields setup is. On the setup sheet it says hes running 10 gram in each rear triangle and 20 next to receiver. In pictures on redrc.net it looks like hes running 5 grams in each rear triangle and 10 grams next to receiver.

The triangles have the JC 5gram weights in each triangle and he is running two 10gram JC weights next to reciever.

turbo2cam 02-21-2013 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by BLKHAWK (Post 11845163)
It does it with the servo out of the car. Im open to anything at this point im lost lol

You know, I did notice on my build that the ackerman arm was "sticking" on something when going in one direction but not the other. upon further inspection, the ackerman arm didnt have enough clearance vs ??? (I can't for the life of me remember what exactly it was catching on) I remember I had to hit the top of the ackerman arm with a file (where the rear ballstud hole is) to get 100% of it's range nice and smooth. maybe you have clearance issues with the rack?

I'll have more of an explanation when I get home and have the darn thing in my hand lol

EDIT:
Actually I think it was hitting the alum part of the steering rack. at full tilt, the opposite side, slides under the alum "arms" of the steering rack (my RC lingo is limited lol) and on one side, it was catching the edge of the alum "arms".

again my memory sucks, so I'll look at my car tonight to be sure.

Beasty Shout 02-21-2013 02:01 PM


Originally Posted by turbo2cam (Post 11845263)
You know, I did notice on my build that the ackerman arm was "sticking" on something when going in one direction but not the other. upon further inspection, the ackerman arm didnt have enough clearance vs ??? (I can't for the life of me remember what exactly it was catching on) I remember I had to hit the top of the ackerman arm with a file (where the rear ballstud hole is) to get 100% of it's range nice and smooth. maybe you have clearance issues with the rack?

I'll have more of an explanation when I get home and have the darn thing in my hand lol

EDIT:
Actually I think it was hitting the alum part of the steering rack. at full tilt, the opposite side, slides under the alum "arms" of the steering rack (my RC lingo is limited lol) and on one side, it was catching the edge of the alum "arms".

again my memory sucks, so I'll look at my car tonight to be sure.

I ran into this problem too. Figured I'll just dial it out with EPA.

Tradin Paint 02-21-2013 02:27 PM


Originally Posted by onefast8 (Post 11845143)
I'm running the 1.6 BB pistons and I keep blowing out bottom e-clips in the rear. The clip is breaking. Guy was telling me that this is because the piston has play between the e-clips and it can get "jarred" in the body causing the e-clip to blow out.

Anyone have the new machined pistons? Are they a better fit? I plan on replacing both rear shafts (they look 100% fine) to be safe and not sure what to do for pistons...New 1.6 kit pistons?...shim them maybe? or wait for the new machined ones to hit the shelf?

The AE pistons are not out yet but the Avid ones are. You could try those.

MX943 02-21-2013 04:16 PM


Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 (Post 11845151)
I had that happen two heats back to back a few weeks ago, all I did was replace the e clips after each time they broke and replaced the pistons after the second time, so I guess that was the ticket as it was the same side that kept breaking


I had the some problem on front and rear,now I just put fresh clips when I change the oil.

trdsupra88 02-21-2013 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by MX943 (Post 11845844)
I had the some problem on front and rear,now I just put fresh clips when I change the oil.

Ive broken one and have seen a few break as well...

Duck Hunter 117 02-21-2013 07:10 PM

I just got back from my first night at the track with my 4.2 and to say I am disappointed is an understatement. First of all, I determined the noise I had was the diff barking even when at full tight. I'll take the blame for maybe having it too loose to begin with and causing the issue. However, at the track I only ran 10 minutes and managed to break 3 ball cups from landing normal sized jumps. The first snapped the ball cup portion off which is consistent to what I am used to seeing. However, the last 2 both split entirely in half from tip to tip. I don't know if I got a bad batch or something but I've got some RPM cups on order and will be replacing all of them before my next trip to the track.

zipperfoot 02-21-2013 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by SAGISI (Post 11845146)
I wonder how accurate Maifields setup is. On the setup sheet it says hes running 10 gram in each rear triangle and 20 next to receiver. In pictures on redrc.net it looks like hes running 5 grams in each rear triangle and 10 grams next to receiver.

Ive often wondered if the pro set up sheets are even close to what they really run. If a pro shared their super dialed, secret set up with everyone, wouldn't they be losing the edge they have over the competition?

Duck Hunter 117 02-21-2013 07:23 PM

Forgot to mention another issue I had was that the buggy was pulling left during moderate to hard acceleration. It even did this going down the backstretch if I floored it. I checked the alignment and it seemed okay. Not sure if this is normal or not? I'm running a Reedy Sonic 7.5t motor if that helps.

mashimarowu 02-21-2013 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Duck Hunter 117 (Post 11846611)
I just got back from my first night at the track with my 4.2 and to say I am disappointed is an understatement. First of all, I determined the noise I had was the diff barking even when at full tight. I'll take the blame for maybe having it too loose to begin with and causing the issue. However, at the track I only ran 10 minutes and managed to break 3 ball cups from landing normal sized jumps. The first snapped the ball cup portion off which is consistent to what I am used to seeing. However, the last 2 both split entirely in half from tip to tip. I don't know if I got a bad batch or something but I've got some RPM cups on order and will be replacing all of them before my next trip to the track.

The ball cups from AE are known to break. You might as well redo all your turnbuckles/ballcups all around.


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