How do I know what side goes where?

maybe you got 2 of the same sides in the package like 2 rights or 2 lefts?

Read the instructions. Its pretty obvious, either you will have a normal amount of steering or nowhere near it.

Fair enough, Ill have a look. thanks for the help

yeah just look at the directions and you'll see the picture of the block. It's clear which way it goes on.

Once you have identified which is which, label them with a paint marker 30L 30R 25L 25R just to save yourself a headache later.

I just normally put 30 or 25 on there but until you are used to knowing the L from R, mark that too.

maifields
 

As far as the setup for maifields listed on rc10.com. i am running as much of it as i can right now, the only thing i havent done is remove my a hub towers and 2mm on inside with unshaved brace and my shock package is the 1.6's with 32/30 with the 1 limiter front and rear, oh ya and i didnt notice he was running one .030" washer on the front tower where i have 2mm, but everything else is to the T other then electronics and gearing. I must say it is pretty good, very locked in in the rear and i believe that is why he raised his spindles because it gave him more steering entering the corner, i did notice a slight push coming out of corners but that could be the A hubs im using. It feels very planted on my medium traction i guess i will call it even though last night it was very dusty degrading traction by a mile.

are you getting a lot of roll with all of that droop? I am sure it landed nice, lol.

You're running the longer camber link in the rear too? That's CRAZY TALK I TELL YA!!!!!!!

initially i was but i was also using my heavier full pack, with the wolf pack it seems perfect. Also by raising the front spindle you are removing down travel so by going to 1 limiter or maybe even 2 limiters you get that back by lowering the arm further. Also my first impression was in some sections of my track it is a turn into a tighter turn and i noticed the extra roll made the car steer a little more, maybe just me and at first i was using the heavier battery. Steering is great even with my gold fronts sauced with green rears sauced. I do have some green fronts on order and i think that will be the ticket. Surprisingly the gold fronts steer pretty good at my track with the green rears but i cant wait to get the green fronts on.

Yes i am :nod: it brings back the good memories of driving my 22 with how stable the rear end is :batman:

interesting. If i get bored I might try that setup, just for giggles. I was already thinking of grind my front spindles so I could raise or lower my front like we used to be able to do with the solid axles.

I would think not having the 3x 1.4 taper pistons would throw the setup off. I would think that would greatly improve low speed dampening.

Make sure the servo arm/linkage isn't hitting anything also. Have you adjusted the endpoints on the radio at all? (stupid question I know...but gotta ask the obvious lol)

You're right. im in the process of getting that done right now.

I'm running the 1.6 BB pistons and I keep blowing out bottom e-clips in the rear. The clip is breaking. Guy was telling me that this is because the piston has play between the e-clips and it can get "jarred" in the body causing the e-clip to blow out.

Anyone have the new machined pistons? Are they a better fit? I plan on replacing both rear shafts (they look 100% fine) to be safe and not sure what to do for pistons...New 1.6 kit pistons?...shim them maybe? or wait for the new machined ones to hit the shelf?