what up guy, im picking mine up tomorrow, this is my first 2wd buggy. i will be running a tekin gen2 redline 10.5 and a rs esc. anyone have any starter setting for that setup? current limit, or gearing? ill be runnig a 110 by 160 size outdoor loose tract.

i run e-buggy, e-truggy and 4wd sc so this is all gonna be new to me.

ESC plate
 

I saw you guys talking about a mounting plate for the speed control. I Just made this out of a top plate for a b44 I had laying around. May be a little thicker but does the job.

Im not trying to kill the thread, im just pointing out that its incredibly hard to read and understand some of the post on the previous pages.

"for buggy right do they make fronts ill i saw was rears lol" seriously, how hard to u have to butcher this comment just to somewhat understand it

I know the feeling, when i came back it would of cost me an arm and a leg to get my FT B4 tuned up and ready to roll again so i just bought a 4.1 and went from there. Im thinking about running the plastic rear hubs, how they working out?

Not sure how you are at setting up 2wd cars but personally i watch Racer53's video on diff and slipper every time i rebuild it just to make sure i get a proper setting and build it properly. Other then that take it slow if this is your 1st 2wd, im normally a 2wd buggy driver and just started 4wd and personally, for me, its a completely different driving style but thats just me. I would also start with a 13.5 or 17.5 with a 75 tooth spur. I currently run a 81/22 gearing with a 10.5 Orion and a SXX v2 ESC with 1/5/2/3 profile setup, gold bar codes in the front with AKA inserts and MC suburbs in the rear with PL inserts. The track i race on is soft clay, bumpy, and around 90x50. Hope this helps you out somewhat.

Sorry . ASC31286

thanks man, i had a 2wd sct for awhile but i know it will handle alot better being shorter. iv already got the motor and esc (10.5) i just have no idea where to start at gearing

Perhaps then we should respond with, sorry, can you rephrase your question as I didn't understand it or just ignore it all together? :confused: Until we can get a sarcasm font we are out of luck. :nod:

I'm not sure what you have going on with your kit, but my b4.2 doesn't have any issues with the camber link hittin the shock body?! Wtf?! I'm running short wheelbase (can't think of how the link could end up any closer to the shock) and there is about 1mm between the link and the spring. The arm would have to flex at least a 1/4" before it would contact the shock body!! You must have a ton of slop or arms made from rubber to flex that much. I can see the link rubbing on the spring after things get a bit sloppy, but nothing a 1-2mm spacer on the bottom wouldn't fix. If the link is hitting the shock body, you have bigger issues IMO.

There is a huge difference between 1/4" and 1mm

We are talking about toy cars. A lot of the people posting here are kids or stoners. Let's give them some slack heh?

My shock caps want fit over the top mounts either. Also had a rear hub that had some bad threads once the screw was 3/4 the way in the A tower. Its like the the caps and the top mount are the same size. The mount needs to be smaller or the cap needs to be bigger. Easy enought to sand the mount down, but why should we have to. Same with the rear shock rub, no mods should be needed. I am a little disappointed with these things in the build.

B4 and B44 arms flex a ton.. your upper link can and will move forward 1/4" during a hard tumble. If you are skeptical, you don't have enough wheel time on your car, lol..

:nod:

Build
 

My shock caps were OK, but 3 of the 4 blue shock mounts were too big, at 4.76mm, compared to the one that fit properly at 4.74mm. Sanded the 3 down and all is good.

I also noticed that the front steering blocks contact the arms at about only 60% throw, while the front is at droop. I'll need to dremel that too.

You should also check for any binding in the front arm movement when attaching the arms to the chassis w/the hinge pins. Mine wound bind up bad at anything below level, and found extra chassis mold flashing needed removed by the where the arms attach to the chassis, and even some material in the arm itself had to be trimmed as well with an exacto..

Matt trimmings tried that on page 1862 of the 4.1 thread, it's almost impossible to comprehend