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Originally Posted by turbo2cam
(Post 11760383)
Why does it seem dumb? I wasn't kidding about my oil pan analogy. Oil pan drain bolts don't use o-rings, and they don't leak. Same with transmission drain plugs. If the oil is thicker than the slop in the threads, the oil won't be able to seep out through the threads. (this is why these drain bolts are UNF threads instead of UNC threads...but those are extreme cases as the hole thats being plugged, is MUCH larger than what we are talking about here.) So if you are leaking, you either running really thin oil, or your threads are fubared...or you are just magic lol :sneaky:
Really depends on the threads and the case. I want nylon screws :) |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11760610)
Think its rather important to make clear no bleed seal = oil leak
Not arguing , debating or even stating a personal preference. Sorry if I stepped on few toes ... Just feel its important to make sure others here realize what happens when you don't use a bleed seal ... Either way, I'm leaving work to go pick up my B4.2 right now, so keep on keepin on rctech lol :batman: |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11760610)
Think its rather important to make clear no bleed seal = oil leak for me
Not arguing , debating or even stating a personal preference. Sorry if I stepped on few toes ... Just feel its important to make sure others here realize what happens when I don't use a bleed seal ... Posting ones personal experience doesn't mean it will be the same for everyone else. |
Originally Posted by Cridd
(Post 11760602)
+1 some people have leaky holes and some don't!!
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Originally Posted by turbo2cam
(Post 11760624)
"Think its rather important to make clear" that this is YOUR opinion...not FACT.
Either way, I'm leaving work to go pick up my B4.2 right now, so keep on keepin on rctech lol :batman: |
Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11760621)
Actually, oil pan drain plugs DO use washers, at least mine, and most I've owned. It uses an M14 aluminum crush washer. Others use things like fiber washers or rubber coated copper washers. I have one that does leak in fact, from the plug threads, slowly. I started using rubber coated washers and using my own "torque spec" because I stripped an aluminum pan out using a torque wrench and new alu crush washer as specified and now I don't trust honda's manuals at all. I had to throw a single oversized plug in there and a nylon washer. It still leaks a few drops a week.
Really depends on the threads and the case. I want nylon screws :) If you stripped it when tq'ing to factory spec....odds are it was fubared before you got to it...yes? The factory sells each and every car this way, and assembles, and maintains them all this way....just sayin' |
Originally Posted by Cridd
(Post 11760632)
Turbo post some pics of the new towers, curious on the finish work.
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Originally Posted by racer1812
(Post 11760629)
some say they leak, some say they don't. Can't prove one or the other wrong over the web.
The oil leaking from the bleed screw is proof ...:nod: Also have two other sets of 12mm shocks with copper seals that have stayed dry & never leak a drop .... I can't do anymore then post pictures of and inform the results ..... Have zero intentions to be here call-n out others about ... |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11760630)
I heard Olestra used to cause that ...
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Ahhh..the wait is over, now the build begins!
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...5483E08963.jpg and the front shock towers.... I just happened to have a NIB b4.1 front shock tower, so I took some crappy cell pictures of the new vs old. New B4.2 on the left, old B4.1 on the right. Only difference I see visually and dimensionally, is the "pad" where the upper shock mount holes are, is thicker on the B4.2. B4.2 = .283" vs B4.1 = .204" So basically B4.2 tower is the same as having a 2mm spacer on a B4.1 tower. Nothing is shaved, or changed for added clearance, the ONLY change I see is the pad being thicker by .079 (2mm) and the pad is thicker on the inside of the tower (shock mount side) Again, B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...5474652F74.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...547CB530FB.jpg |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11760652)
The picture posted shows the leak in question ...
The oil leaking from the bleed screw is proof ...:nod: Also have two other sets of 12mm shocks with copper seals that have stayed dry & never leak a drop .... I can't do anymore then post pictures of and inform the results ..... Have zero intentions to be here call-n out others about ... All four of them are identical..I can post pics of all 4 now that I have the car in front of me. Just because yours failed to seal, doesn't mean that they ALL are that way. Operator error is what I would chaulk this up too...but thats just me. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...557150901E.jpg |
rear tower pics pleasors :)
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Originally Posted by turbo2cam
(Post 11760639)
If you stripped it when tq'ing to factory spec....odds are it was fubared before you got to it...yes?
Nope. I've done nearly every oil change on this car and used a new crush washer and torque wrench. It was good. Just an aluminum pan. Sometimes it happens. Every oil change since 30k. Car's at 111k now--single oversized plug, drip drip :mad: |
I feel dumb. I forgot the c clips in the front axles so how in the world do I disassemble them to put them in? To clarify, the front knuckles have the bearings and axle installed, without the c clips. I can't figure out how to take the axle out without damaging the knuckle!
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1) remove the hex
2) take out the axle pin 3) push the axle out. 4) remove the inside bearing. 5) put the bearing on the axle and push it all the way on 6) install the c clip 7) line up the c clip with the "D" shape inside the hub adn press the axle through 8) insert the axle pin and the hex |
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