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Originally Posted by 2-shot
(Post 12795740)
I'm having an issue with my servo arm. I purchased a Losi 22 aluminum servo arm. I installed the ball stud on the servo arm with the ball pointing towards the rear of the buggy, like the manual shows. I first installed the Losi 22 arm on my servo without the round, blue aluminum servo arm spacer that comes in the kit. I forgot about the spacer until I saw that the ball stud would hit the servo case when trying to turn the steering.
Then I pulled the servo arm off the servo and put the blue aluminum spacer on over the output splines of the servo, then reinstalled the servo arm. When I tighten the screw on the servo arm, the blue aluminum spacer puts pressure on the servo case, not allowing the splined output shaft on the servo to move freely. I was thinking about trying to find a tiny spacer that will fit inside the splined side of the servo arm, so when I tightened the servo arm, the spacer would act as a crush tube and not let the arm tighten against the blue aluminum spacer. The only problem is finding something small enough to fit inside the splined side of the servo arm, the correct length, and it will let the servo arm screw fit through. Anyone else had this issue? Is there an easier fix for this? If I install the ball stud pointing towards the front of the car (opposite from what it shows in the manual), my little steering linkage is not parallel with the servo. Will that cause any issues if the little steering linkage is not parallel with the servo? Thanks in advance for your help. I'm starting to run out of ideas to fix this issue. |
Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12795838)
why not use the plastic arm that comes with the kit? they hold up great
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I finally made the switch to the esc shelf this week and threw on some harder tires.
I was pleasantly surprised at the new found nymbolness of the car. After turning into the pipe a few time in practice..lol, I was able set a new personal best, TQ'd, won the A for the 6th week straight. I won by about 8 seconds over some folks that get there stuff for less than retail, if you know what I mean. As an independent, not much brings more joy. It's amazing how things work out when you do a little research and educate yourself. Now I'm only about 9 months behind the tech game. As a loyal AE guy for 20+ years, bring on the B5, but please don't change to much... I have a feeling the B5 has been under our nose the whole time, just not the production release. |
Quick question, I'm not sure what's up with my buggy. B4.2, tekin ESC, Reedy Sonic Mach 2 geared 33/72. Running a shorty all the way forward and weigh in at 1540 race ready. So know the question, should my car be able to lift the front tires when doing the slipper adjustment test on the pit table? I've had the VTS slipper no luck, switched back to the V2 slipper no luck. The guy behind me said he had to loosen his sons slipper so it wouldn't bring the front end up so high. Not sure on his gearing though. Kind of at a loss or maybe I'm expecting something my car car/ motor can't do?
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Sorry guys, I'm running a 17.5 motor
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Originally Posted by CaseyD
(Post 12796667)
Sorry guys, I'm running a 17.5 motor
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Yea see that's what's confusing me, I probably have 1/4 inch of thread before my slipper but even gets to the spring? If I went by the book and had the. "5mm" my spur and pads would be falling off. My battery is all the way forward. ESC in the battery tray behind. When I do the slipper test my car just makes a nasty loud screeching noise. Tires stay on the table.
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Originally Posted by CaseyD
(Post 12796716)
Yea see that's what's confusing me, I probably have 1/4 inch of thread before my slipper but even gets to the spring? If I went by the book and had the. "5mm" my spur and pads would be falling off. My battery is all the way forward. ESC in the battery tray behind. When I do the slipper test my car just makes a nasty loud screeching noise. Tires stay on the table.
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It could be multiple things:
Slipper assembled wrong, but you tried 2 diff ones. Diff too loose and "barking" Motor weak or sensor board or wire bad, it might be cogging under load Loosen the slipper until it slips noticeably, then tighten in 1/8-1/4 turn increments until it lifts the front wheels 1/2 inch. If it starts making a different noise while you tighten the slipper, then the diff needs to be tightened. Find an experienced friendly racer and ask for help. |
Originally Posted by 2-shot
(Post 12795740)
I'm having an issue with my servo arm. I purchased a Losi 22 aluminum servo arm. I installed the ball stud on the servo arm with the ball pointing towards the rear of the buggy, like the manual shows. I first installed the Losi 22 arm on my servo without the round, blue aluminum servo arm spacer that comes in the kit. I forgot about the spacer until I saw that the ball stud would hit the servo case when trying to turn the steering.
Then I pulled the servo arm off the servo and put the blue aluminum spacer on over the output splines of the servo, then reinstalled the servo arm. When I tighten the screw on the servo arm, the blue aluminum spacer puts pressure on the servo case, not allowing the splined output shaft on the servo to move freely. I was thinking about trying to find a tiny spacer that will fit inside the splined side of the servo arm, so when I tightened the servo arm, the spacer would act as a crush tube and not let the arm tighten against the blue aluminum spacer. The only problem is finding something small enough to fit inside the splined side of the servo arm, the correct length, and it will let the servo arm screw fit through. Anyone else had this issue? Is there an easier fix for this? If I install the ball stud pointing towards the front of the car (opposite from what it shows in the manual), my little steering linkage is not parallel with the servo. Will that cause any issues if the little steering linkage is not parallel with the servo? Thanks in advance for your help. I'm starting to run out of ideas to fix this issue. |
what are some ways to give your car more steering without changing tires? my car is pushing through some corners and I need a little more steering.
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Originally Posted by CaseyD
(Post 12796716)
Yea see that's what's confusing me, I probably have 1/4 inch of thread before my slipper but even gets to the spring? If I went by the book and had the. "5mm" my spur and pads would be falling off. My battery is all the way forward. ESC in the battery tray behind. When I do the slipper test my car just makes a nasty loud screeching noise. Tires stay on the table.
The slipper will not engage and grab the pads if the diff is loose because all the power of the motor is being lost in the diff. I would rebuild the diff just to be sure and tighten to at least what the book says, maybe more. another possibility although unlikely since its a 17.5 is the teeth of your either your diff gear, idler gear, or top shaft gear are worn down and causing them to slip over each other and not fully engage each other properly. pull apart the transmission and carefully check all the teeth and make sure they dont look like "shark fins". If any do, completely replace the part. |
Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12797540)
what are some ways to give your car more steering without changing tires? my car is pushing through some corners and I need a little more steering.
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Originally Posted by CaseyD
(Post 12796716)
Yea see that's what's confusing me, I probably have 1/4 inch of thread before my slipper but even gets to the spring? If I went by the book and had the. "5mm" my spur and pads would be falling off. My battery is all the way forward. ESC in the battery tray behind. When I do the slipper test my car just makes a nasty loud screeching noise. Tires stay on the table.
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Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12797540)
what are some ways to give your car more steering without changing tires? my car is pushing through some corners and I need a little more steering.
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