R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated B4.2 Thread

Make sure your diff is tight enough before you set your slipper. If your buddies b4 is amazing you should be checking his car over to see how its setup compares to yours.

Wildcat1971

10-06-2013 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UrabusDenis (Post 12608728)

Hi guys,

I bought a used B4 Factory kit (old one) for fun on the track (since there is no class) between runs with my 1:8 eBuggy which is my primary car. I can't brake with this car after the long straight without spinning completely every time- the shocks (with proper oil, green/brown springs) and diff were all rebuilt before the run. I then tried the car of my friend, which is a B4.1 and wow his car was amazing- so much fun to drive it made me estatic thinking my car hopefully be like that when its sorted out. Any ideas where the problem could be? I will open the transmission tomorrow, just wanted to check if any 2WD guru can see the solution instantly.

Also, I can't seem to setup the slipper properly- when using the method of holding the wheels and setting up for the front to raise 3 inches, my car doesn't raise at all even when the slipper is almost fully tight. Any ideas here aswell? I'm pretty experienced in 1:8 eBuggy and 1:10 TC but I must admit I am faced with some pretty novice situations and questions with 2WD buggy :)

if your running a 17.5 its harder to raise it 3 inches. I only shoot for 1 inch on my with a triad

silveraider14

10-06-2013 04:43 PM

If you have 100% brakes that could be the problem also. I run maybe 60 but I try not to use them

jswo	10-06-2013 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silveraider14 (Post 12608648)

I shaved the plastic one and have been fine for 3 weeks with plenty of tumbles and getting hit by short course trucks.

I have not needed to use 27.5 weight yet

Im pretty close I think to what I want if I go to 27 in the rear and change from 1.6s to 1.4x3s what changes will it make. Im still learning what the 3 holes are like.

silveraider14

10-06-2013 05:21 PM

You will have more weight transfer to the rear so it will have more rear bite

rc car guy

10-06-2013 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UrabusDenis (Post 12608728)

one turn your steering down if you need more steering change tires till that works, 2 once you get the right amount of steering and still spinning out change rear tires 3 if that doesnt work start turning down your brake to where its controllable slide/turn, this is the basics

jswo	10-06-2013 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silveraider14 (Post 12608889)

You will have more weight transfer to the rear so it will have more rear bite

Sounds good, depending on tires sometimes had to much steering

silveraider14

10-06-2013 05:41 PM

Yeah you gotta have the right tires forsure

jswo	10-06-2013 05:51 PM

Just put in the centering kit and now the right front is 13.5g heavy and the right rear is 4.2 heavy. Before I weighed it I cleaned it real well and checked shock collars with calipers. Any ideas.

DanielC.

10-06-2013 05:57 PM

Not sure if it's been mentioned on here yet, but give the new TLR machined 1.6 pistons a try. Much tighter fit than the AE machined pistons both in the shock body and on the shock shaft. My car jumps like an RB6 with these suckers.

mick33b4

10-06-2013 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RapidRC (Post 12607459)

Next weekend I will be racing on an outdoor track and am hoping to get some set up advice. It is bumpy, big jumps, hard packed, dusty and can be very loose. When I've raced there before rear traction was the issue. I don't have a lot of time to test so suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I run on a track like this. This weekend switched the car around back for indoor clay, so the notable changes are top of mind.

- 3.5 deg rear toe block
- Open pistons with 30 wt.
- Black Front spring, Green Rear spring
- One camber washer front, two rear
- Unshaved rear mount, A hub mount
- Full pack
- Battery FORWARD
- 2 deg camber front/rear

I find outdoors dusty I'm trying to take steering out of the car. The rear end is always unexpectedly coming around. I found rear toe to 3.5 helped stabilize a lot. Black springs and roll axis tipped rearward (compared to the kit setup of 2 washers front and 1 rear) seems to help. Also, battery forward seems to help with the corner exit over-steering.

My tire picks

Front: grooves
Rears:
- For packed with loose dirt: double dees or 3Ds
- For packed with more loose dirt: bow-ties
- For loose: Goosebumps or IFMAR Studs

Double dees are great if they are watering. Bow-ties pretty much work OK for all of the above. They also seem to wear more slowly than double dees.

silveraider14

10-06-2013 08:30 PM

does anybody make hubs that are black or silver?

can I de anodize the exotek hubs?

ToxicBanana

10-06-2013 08:32 PM

When running 17.5T is it still wise to use the rear ballast weight?

silveraider14

10-06-2013 09:36 PM

I have always used it and I run 17.5.

my car weights in at 1554g

Rawwolf

10-06-2013 10:09 PM

ok I am pretty sure I do not have a +8 chassis. The stock b4.1 body part #9792 fits the chassis fine. How is the b4 battery strap too short? It is less than a MM too short. And thank you so much for the info that the +8 chassis is 8mm longer than a stock chassis that helped so much. :rolleyes:

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