its pushing on power. if i coast or brake its fine but at the end of our straight, theres a sweeper and thats where it pushes really bad. the turn in is fine but if i try to power through the sweeper, it pushes a lot and messes up my car in the off camber immediately after the sweeper. and the rear traction is not the issue, i barely have it as it is. my track is not your usual clay track so its a constant battle to find traction and the new layout is the first time ive really had a pushing problem.

my set up is really close to stock. i have 32.5/2x1.6 flat with black up front and 27.5/2x1.6 flat with black in rear. everything else is stock. its pushing on power. and its not that i dont want to change tires, I just want to know ways to tune the car without using tires to do it. and yes, I have tried slowing down but it really kills me to slow down cause i run stock motor. i need the momentum so I need to be able to drive through corners without pushing as bad.

Im thinking about going to 27.5/2x1.6 tapered with orange losi springs up front and 25/2x1.6 tapered with green associated springs in rear. what do you guys think about that? the softer springs and fluid should help give it more overall agility and make it more responsive. plus our track has no heating so its literally like 40 degrees inside which is why im going so low on the fluid.

Softening it up will make it less responsive. But right now, I believe I run in similar cold situation. I think I have 3x1.4 tapered in the front, 30wt, and its dialed. And as much as changing tires hurts the wallet, that might be the thing to do. I personally only have 2 sets. one for clay and one for summer dirt.

I have a ton of tires that are in good condition, I have stock piled them for tuning purpose but I think Im gonna try square fuzzies with rebars up front and I think that may work well. bar tires (rebars, barcodes, suburbs) in the rear arent working like i want them to, the ion type tires (ions, slingshots) are decent but the track is too dusty to run them in my opinion so the only thing left are pin type tires and square fuzzies are the best pin tires out there, again in my opinion.

I know it sounds silly but did you forget the top shaft spacer ( 9602 ) or use a spacer that is a different length?

Just a thought.

I'd try a stiffer rear spring, as you are running the softest rear spring ae makes (stiffer rear = less weight transfer as you come back on power after letting off at the end of the straight). But, I would like to point out that it is usually not advised to tune your car for one part of the track.

its not one part of the track that kicking my ass so it wont hurt to tune the car differently in general. it pushes everywhere on power, its just the worst through the sweeper at the end of the straight. so should I try green or white in your opinion? Im also gonna drop the weight of the shock fluid in the rear a little too since its so cold.

That's up to you. I'd try both springs and just check the clock. I also take it that you are running the factory camber link positions and spacing, correct? After settling on a spring, I'd recommend playing with ballstud washers front and rear (one end of the car at a time). There is a window which we know works on the b4.2, so I'd just play around in that window and see what works for you.

Try both! I like the white rear springs but my GF likes the feeling of greens.

Black-black is rather soft, I tried it once and the car felt awesome through bumpy areas, but really lacked the steering feel I want. I do run the same pistons/shock weights as you but use Green front Grey Rear. Try throwing whites on the rear and start from there. What are you running for ride height?

Thats funny cause I was already gonna do that. I was gonna run no washers on the front shock tower and ground the rear chassis brace flat. Also, I gonna go in to the innermost hole on the rear hub too..

you run 27.5/2x1.6 tapered and 25/2x1.6 tapered? and Im running stock 24mm.

Going in on the rear hub *should* result in the opposite of what you want. 1-a *should* have more side bite and less forward bite that 1-b in the rear. This means the car *should* push even more with 1-a in the rear. Also, just to check, you are running rear hubs in the middle, right? (the further forward the rear hub the less on power steering).

and i know this may sound stupid but what would tightening/loosening the diff do?

oh okay, someone told me the opposite of that at the track. I have mine at stock right now, whatever that is. I believe its the second most innermost hole.

Stock rear link = 1-b. Here is an oldie-but-goodie worth a read (note he wrote this for the b4, but the general suspension rules of thumb still apply): http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...SetupHints.htm