How do u guys feel about running the receiver an ESC in on the chassis using a ESC shelf. Should I stay with it or go back with the receiver and ESC on the sides???

inline
 

Deleted

personally i like the esc shelf it it felt better left to right a slight bit faster on the transition but it was may not be able to tell at all on a outdoor track, but i also run a full size pack with 7g in each corner, just felt good this way, its on a super high bite track, inside i did not like the shorty pack at all, it felt really twitchy and didnt have enough steering, and if it did it was way too much no inbetween

I like the shorties for tight tracks that are more technical, Indoor or outdoor. The current track I run at is High speed with some huge jumps indoor and I like the full pack cause it wont loose its punch and has a lot of side bite just doesnt steer that hot it pushes. the shory pack indoor feels to reactive, im smoother with the full pack. I really like the shorties in outdoor loam.

I run a front green spring, and a rear white. What change can I make so sarfice fwd traction to bring the steering up?

have you tried a harder rear spring? to allow the rear end to rotate more or a different front/rear tire, moving the battery forward a small spacer, a few things to try

Taper Piston performance
 

Tapered pistons let the car return to ride height faster .

This feels like the car is more aggressive , turns are quicker with less delay .

****example:

We had a S course with three small tables spaced inside .

After you landed the down side of the each table you had to make a hard left then on to the next table landing a hard right .

Using flat pistons , on landing the down hill car would feel numb and not want to steer , car felt like it had a push.

Switch to tapered pistons and after the landings the car would easily make the turns ...

All possible because the car returned to ride height quicker which allowed the car to make a turn possible .

With the flat piston had to wait for the car to turn because the suspension was still compressed and way low for a turn to even happen..

This all happens in less then 2/10th of a second , hard to believe or even feel..

I`m trying my best though to inform you & everyone how
the pistons perform .:)


Go look at all the Centro guys rides ...

They are all using flat pistons , all because mid motor handling is already very aggressive and they don't need more .


Rear motor is different , it needs help sometimes with getting rid of a too planted feeling from mass traction .

Taper pistons get rid of that effect pronto ...:tire:

Summery

if you need grip and smooth steering ? Use flat piston

If you need more steering ?
Use the taper piston .

remember...any change u do may seem small..but can change everything...just look at your car..times it by 10 and thats the change you made on a 1:1 scale car lol so little things do make a big difference. like for instance camber linkage. as far as lap time increases. making a change doesnt necessarily mean youll have faster laps. but your car may feel different or react different with the same times. also blow-by is a huge thing with the tapered pistons and can cause less pack in a certian direction (whichever way you flip the piston because its only tapered in one direction) one biggggg way to feel small differences is to race on a very high-bite track. youll be amazed with what little changes do and you do learn alot about the characteristics of your car. my track for instance has so much bite at the moment that if your running your ride height a little too high youll notice it. actually better yet the craziest thing ive noticed is if your wing is simply not cut low enough youll feel it. so just saying everything makes a difference. just my thought on that..

changes dont always make you faster, and thats ok. some make your car more consistent. which makes you faster because your not crashing or having problems on that section as much.
the pistons did help on the table sections george described because i was able to get through safer and easier which is more consistent. in the end this would contribute to more laps

+1

looking for a link posted in this thread..... drilled out diff halves (outdrives). It could have been 300 pages ago.... don't feel like looking through all of this. Can someone point me in the right direction?

nevermind, answered my own question. Get this.... I googled it! anyways here is the link to the site. Has anyone tried these?
http://www.lunarrc.com/parts.htm

I run 17.5 blink with my 4.2, using the VTS system three pads. I was thinking about going to two pads vs three. It seems very inconsistent with three pads almost like it doesn't slip at times and when I loosen test its good but after a run it slips too much. Any one else have suggestions?

I wouldn't bother with the VTS in 17.5. Standard slipper, or Triad.

thanks, that is what I was thinking.