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Hmmm... might have to try out this Avid chassis on the B4.2 kit i've got sitting in a box... although I'd like to stick with mid-motor. It'd be interesting to compare their version to the X6-sqrd.
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Wilson
The change in roll from the shelf is very small and hardly noticeable. Your set up looks ok, suggest reducing the ballast by the receiver to just 10 grams. Add camber to front tires (1 degree) Nice to see a post on topic finally.:nod::cool: |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12499305)
Wilson
The change in roll from the shelf is very small and hardly noticeable. Your set up looks ok, suggest reducing the ballast by the receiver to just 10 grams. Add camber to front tires (1 degree) Nice to see a list on topic finally.:nod::cool: |
Have you tried Green springs F/R? Try removing the weight under the servo too.
Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy
(Post 12498577)
Hello guys,
Is using ESC shelf will help on low traction track as it give more roll? And some suggestion for setup will be great. The car was great but i need a bit more rear traction on throttle. The track is dry, has low traction with very thick dust (rooster tail on throttle :nod:) and hard packed dusty on some areas, also bumpy. This is my setup changes from box setup: Rear: AE Black Spring 30 wt with 1.7mm piston -1 deg. of camber 2mm washer in inner camber link (unshaved brace) 3.5 deg of inboard toe (haven't got the 0.5 deg hub) short wheel base 5g of weight each on rear pod 20g of weight on receiver side 24/81 gearing (running a 8.5t) battery all the way back (full size pack) Sweep square armor tires Front: 0 deg of camber 1mm washer in inner camber link 20g of weight under servo (I'm using short servo) VP pro square ribs tires with closed cell inserts Thanks :) |
Originally Posted by JBrad
(Post 12498331)
Redlands raceway
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Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy
(Post 12498577)
Hello guys,
Is using ESC shelf will help on low traction track as it give more roll? And some suggestion for setup will be great. The car was great but i need a bit more rear traction on throttle. The track is dry, has low traction with very thick dust (rooster tail on throttle :nod:) and hard packed dusty on some areas, also bumpy. This is my setup changes from box setup: Rear: AE Black Spring 30 wt with 1.7mm piston -1 deg. of camber 2mm washer in inner camber link (unshaved brace) 3.5 deg of inboard toe (haven't got the 0.5 deg hub) short wheel base 5g of weight each on rear pod 20g of weight on receiver side 24/81 gearing (running a 8.5t) battery all the way back (full size pack) Sweep square armor tires Front: 0 deg of camber 1mm washer in inner camber link 20g of weight under servo (I'm using short servo) VP pro square ribs tires with closed cell inserts Thanks :) I would remove all the weights except for the one that came with the factory kit. Then throw green springs on in the front and back. Make sure your ride height is at 23 1/2. Also for your pinion I would go with a 23t. Also get a shorty pack and tuck all your excess electronics (capacitor and receiver) under your ESC shelf and you should be good to go. My first couple of days with this set up I got a bunch of rolls but you will learn to control the car with ease and it also whips really easy. One of my friends that is sponsored really likes my setup but he cant run it since he is sponsored by another RC company, he actually helped me dial in the car. Good luck. :tire: |
Hey guys,
Ever since I rebuilt my B4 with a new chassis I havent had any stick on weights. So right now I am just running the ballast weight with green/green springs and green (supersoft) barcodes front and rear. Where should I put the weights I got? I am running mod with a wolfpack. Whats the affect of adding 5 grams to each rear triangle? And should I add 10 grams next to the receiver? I run on a smaller indoor track with sharp corners. Thank you! -Venom |
Anyone have a suggestion for a better nut than the stock shock mount nut? I hate them!
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Originally Posted by ntJeff
(Post 12501116)
Anyone have a suggestion for a better nut than the stock shock mount nut? I hate them!
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funny, do a search for the blue ones on amain and the picture comes up 3 dollars and amain sells for 5.49, lol. outdated picture you think?
I runb the stock ones and just found a good socket drive that fits them while on the car and have no problems. when I used a little wrench i hated them. |
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Originally Posted by Venom1836
(Post 12499719)
Hey guys,
Ever since I rebuilt my B4 with a new chassis I havent had any stick on weights. So right now I am just running the ballast weight with green/green springs and green (supersoft) barcodes front and rear. Where should I put the weights I got? I am running mod with a wolfpack. Whats the affect of adding 5 grams to each rear triangle? And should I add 10 grams next to the receiver? I run on a smaller indoor track with sharp corners. Thank you! -Venom Standard ballast is to use 1/4 oz in rear corners of chassis & Team ballast weight next to transmission. Some use 1/4 oz next to receiver to help off set the weight of the ESC mounted on other side of battery more weight in the rear of chassis add's stability & traction. More weight next to transmission increases rotation on sharp corners. |
Originally Posted by rcman182006
(Post 12501127)
most get either the orange (ASC4449) or blue (ASC6937) aluminum 4-40 nuts for the uppers if thats the nut your referring to
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 12501389)
Seeing the price difference between AE & Losi got me looking at other nut & I found these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eel-Locknut-20 They're steel, but crap they're cheap. |
Or you can just hit your local Ace Hardware, they will have them very cheap also
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
(Post 12501603)
Or you can just hit your local Ace Hardware, they will have them very cheap also
... :lol: |
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