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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Grasschopper 07-30-2013 05:23 AM


Originally Posted by Skillz_B (Post 12396504)
Are the MIP C-CVD'S worth the money, and do the platic retainers stay on or should they be glued?


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 12396522)
Yes,Yes,No glue needed.

Why do you feel that they are better? Why do they change which part has the cup?

Wildcat1971 07-30-2013 05:46 AM


Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 12396230)
Also Amain, Tony Screw kit or Rcscrewz?

tony's and stay away from the stainless crap. just get the black set

Cridd 07-30-2013 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12396894)
tony's and stay away from the stainless crap. just get the black set

Ok, thanks.

Cridd 07-30-2013 07:41 AM

This looks way cool.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/sanwa/...egler/details/

Why is LRP advertising a Sanwa speed control, do they own Sanwa?

MiCk B 07-30-2013 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 12397185)
This looks way cool.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/sanwa/...egler/details/

Why is LRP advertising a Sanwa speed control, do they own Sanwa?

LRP in Germany distribute Sanwa.

MiCk B. :-)

elex300 07-30-2013 08:20 AM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12396847)
Why do you feel that they are better? Why do they change which part has the cup?

They last longer for one. Plus the design is better imo. With stock AE cvd the ball joint is on the cvd dog bone side so it is exposed alot more allowing dirt to get in which causes wear. Look at the MIP design where the ball joint is on the axle side which helps keep the dirt out. Plus the holding ring design is much better then the snap ring.

Wildcat1971 07-30-2013 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 12397185)
This looks way cool.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/sanwa/...egler/details/

Why is LRP advertising a Sanwa speed control, do they own Sanwa?

adjusting the esc from the transmitter. If that included boost changes, then this will be a huge problem. You goto tech, its blinky, you put it on the track and change to boosted, then after the race change it back to blinky before you even leave the track. When, SP came out with the bluetooth programming, this was a concern for many. In stock obviously, not mod.

Wildcat1971 07-30-2013 08:32 AM

Also, the esc kinda looks liek it has some of the HW/orion tech, but updated of course. The spec and the switch are very orion/hw 1s in looks. kinda reminds me of the 120amp 1s in its specs.

Grasschopper 07-30-2013 08:38 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12397343)
Also, the esc kinda looks liek it has some of the HW/orion tech, but updated of course. The spec and the switch are very orion/hw 1s in looks. kinda reminds me of the 120amp 1s in its specs.

LOL I saw that switch and started having BH flashbacks. :eek: :lol:

BIGSKI15 07-30-2013 10:14 AM

Servo question...

i've built 4 associated cars since last august. What is the proper way to set the servo arm? THe manuals say to offset the servo arm 5-10, approximately 1 spline over and there should be a 2mm gap between the ball cups. Once you've done the servo link and offset the arm, the steering rack usually isn't perfectly straight, so do you use the sub trim to align the steering rack while the link is hooked up or take off the horn, adjust the sub trip, then replace the horn?

I've been setting mine with the servo arm straight up and adjusting the servo link to fit since this usually works so that i don't have to use any sub trim to align the rack. I think i could be losing steering radius by doing it this way.

Wildcat1971 07-30-2013 10:17 AM

you 4pks-r shoiuld have sub trims. i do like the manual and use sub trims to make it straight. I never use normal trims, only sub trims. reg trims will mess with your epa.

Wild Cherry 07-30-2013 10:20 AM


Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 (Post 12397622)
Servo question...

i've built 4 associated cars since last august. What is the proper way to set the servo arm? THe manuals say to offset the servo arm 5-10, approximately 1 spline over and there should be a 2mm gap between the ball cups. Once you've done the servo link and offset the arm, the steering rack usually isn't perfectly straight, so do you use the sub trim to align the steering rack while the link is hooked up or take off the horn, adjust the sub trip, then replace the horn?

I've been setting mine with the servo arm straight up and adjusting the servo link to fit since this usually works so that i don't have to use any sub trim to align the rack. I think i could be losing steering radius by doing it this way.


off set the servo horn , makes for equal Max steering Left & Right...

BIGSKI15 07-30-2013 10:20 AM

thanks,

I will do it this way...

I have used the sub trims before but it seem like i have to use a lot to get it where it should be which led me to believe it was wrong.

BIGSKI15 07-30-2013 10:21 AM

That's exactly what i was thinking and have been wanting to adjust them so that it was correct.

thanks


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12397641)
off set the servo horn , makes for equal Max steering Left & Right...


Wildcat1971 07-30-2013 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 (Post 12397644)
thanks,

I will do it this way...

I have used the sub trims before but it seem like i have to use a lot to get it where it should be which led me to believe it was wrong.

yeah, some radios have more subtrim movement than others. My airtronics takes like left 60 to get it right. It only goes to 100, so if I and off too much with the install of the rack, then I cant get it to center. But if that is the case, my install was probably wrong anyway. The way I understand it is. Sub trims adjust your epa to match the subtrim changes, but the trim shifts left and right, but does not touch the epa, thus messing it up. I have adjusted sub trims and noticed that my epa seems to stay correct, so i never use trims.


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