Finished painting it up today. Ive been out of the hobby for year and a half and look forward to getting back to the track.

My apologies if this has been brought up before.

I just rebuilt my shocks for the first time since the original build. If built per the manual, I get "negative rebound", for lack of a better term.. In otherwords, at full extension, the shocks want to compress on their own. I corrected the problem by staring over but, this time, not compressing the shock all the way before screwing in the bleeder screw.

Did AE intend for the shocks to do this on their own?

This is a good thing. Rebound is when the shocks are fully compressed and the piston wants to move down. I always run my shocks with zero rebound.

I had the sae thing, if you work the piston back and forth they will equalize, you want zero rebound.

Hideeho
Also, after doing this, re-bleed the shocks. You may have to bleed them a third time. If you take your time & do it right, 2 bleeds almost always does the trick. Don't forget to check them at the track as the day warms up & possibly bleed them after a few runs.

They were even smoother after bleeding them a second time, I have noticed a little oil around the spring cup, and on the rod end on hot days, anyone else have that happen?. I used shock pliers when I built the shocks and was really careful, I figured the shock oil is thinning due to high temps. I have read the Aka front wheels dont work with the Jconcepts axles, if thats true are there any that work better?

When you bleed the shock by pushing the piston to the top the shaft and piston take the space of the oil you bleed out. When you fully extend the shock shaft you create a vacumm effect so it draws the shaft back in. Its totally normal. Just build with 0 rebound and you are good.

so when there is "negative" rebound its called 0 rebound?

when i flip my car over (and the shock oil is going down) i can feel that there is air in the shock. like a little gap where theres no oil.
is that normal?
cos the shocks dont have a gasket under the shock cap. (cos of the bleed screw i guess)

the gasket's job is to compress when the shaft is compressed to handle the volume of the shaft, and if there is no gasket there is nothing to absorb the volume of the shaft.

U can try running bladders in your shocks, they tend to seal better from air

you mean bleed cups?
can you give me a link to the product your talking about?

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...0001-12mm.html

Or look under Losi SCTE shock bladders, they "should" fit too

thanks man!
i happen to have a losi then t which have the same shocks and i tried putting the gasket in the ae shock and it works very well! i can adjust the rebound by opening the bleeder screw, compress or not compress the shaft and then close the bleeder screw.

If there is air in your shocks you need to rebleed them, a little rebound on freshly build shocks is normal, they will equalize.

rebleeding isnt gona do anything.
the problem is that bleeding and fully compress the shock causes a vacuum action when the shaft "expends" so air is going in from the bottom cap.
if there was a gasket then it would absorb the volume of the shaft going in and out.

When you push the shaft all the way up and it does'nt come back out you have 0 rebound. These are emulsion shocks so a little bit of air is needed for them to perform properly. Watch the video on emulsion shocks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg