Hideeho
The 2nd (or 3rd) time you bleed, you are bleeding excess oil not air. AE shocks for the b4 series are emulsion shocks & WILL have air in them. Through repeated bleeding & pumping you will eventualy get your shocks to completely neutral rebound, no positive rebound (compress the shock & it is pushed back out) or negative rebound (expand the shock completely & the shaft gets pulled back in).

I won a 17.5 motor/esc Trakpower combo at a recent race I attended. I haven't used the setup much, but from playing with it one practice day.. ESC seems pretty smooth (probably couldn't even tell the difference between it and my Orion R10 pro). Don't like the fact that you cannot use a proigramming box or link to change settings- It all must be done via the esc.

The 17.5 motor wasn't blazing fast, but it got the job done.

Actually for really dead / no rebound you can leave the bleeder screw in the cap out. The hole will not leak oil. We do that in TC all the time

Touring cars only dampen a very small amount which is why it is ok for that application but off-raod buggies are vastly different and the shocks travel their full lengths repeatedly in remarkably quick fashion, thus shooting out some fluid should you leave the bleeder screws out. As well, the severe bottoming out would be a painful experience to endure.

This is with an uncut bladder, it will create a air tight seal around the shock cap when seated properly

OK that's different. LOL

does anyone know, how much kv the thunderpower z3r 7.5t has?

Is the 12mm big bore spring sets the same for both buggy and Short Course Trucks?

i don't think so, SC shocks are usually longer

they are the same for buggy,stadium, 4wd, and sct. the lower spring retainer on your shock is longer on the truck, and shorter on the buggy, for the differance you need.

thanks, is it worth buying all of the shocks, like the medium, hard, and soft sets. or are there ones that you dont need?

Depends on track conditions. Do you travel to other tracks where the surface is different? Usually the soft and mediums are nice to have.

Normally i dont. My main track is a medium to high traction surface with some triples. i have been getting higher competitivly and have been traveling more. what kind of conditions are the hard springs good for?

ya, i have just bought the soft front and rears and the medium hard and rear. I havent found a need yet for the hard frt and rear.

Springs most likely used/needed:

Front:
Brown
Black
Green
White... *If you run on very high grip

Rear:
Green
White
Gray