Nice signature BTW.

I have 2 B4's (one is pretty much retired) and a T4 as well as my RB6. We usually race the B4 in 17.5, the T4 in mod ST, and the RB6 in Mod buggy. I think the street price is roughly $175 different and I think it's worth it. I wouldn't say it's overwhelmingly worth it, but I think both of them are equal value for the money.

It's like comparing a Ford Expedition to an Infiniti QX56. Both can carry the same amount of people, and do about the same things but one is 50% more expensive. To some they'll point out the Expedition is a better value because not only is it cheaper, but it performs many things better, such as it has more room, can tow a slightly heavier trailer, etc. Other's will point out the Infiniti makes up for this with super comfy seats, modern engineering, much better fit and finish, and a smoother drivetrain. To each his own.

For me the RB6 has better shocks, much better fit and finish, and a smoother drivetrain. Things just stay tight and require little mainteance. With the Associated, there's always something that's getting sloppy or some screw is backing out of the crappy plastics, etc. Is this worth the extra money? To some it is, to others it definitely is not. Personally, I love both and since I'm not sponsored I'll bring both to the track and enjoy them equally and try to stay out of the brand wars... with an exception of a bit of ball busting (ie trolling) from time to time.

On edit: The weekend before last my son and I were competing in the JConcepts Dirt Invert and Ryan Maifield and I were waiting to drive next to each other on the driver's stand. Since I'm not brand loyal, I'm running a Flow and a Sonic Mach 2 8.5 in My Kyosho, which is what he runs. I wanted to talk to him about some of his settings in his Flow but felt ashamed to bring it up since I'm running "Associated" gear in my Kyosho. Almost sacrilege. LOL

MIke

The b4.2 does not jump as well but it has wayy more forward bite than the rb6, has a large tuning window, and is much more forgiving to drive. With the rb6 you need to be good at setup and very smooth to go fast.

That might be the case for different tracks and driving styles. For me the rb6 was way smoother and required no tuning at all. Just toss on the USA setup and go. Forward, side and every other kind of bite was the same or higher than the b4. The most noticable difference was the smoothness over bumpy parts of the track. Like I said, for most people it a will be a cost and parts support issue.

Still working on my shock package am I correct to assume that running lighter oil in the rear will make the buggy more responsive? And lighter oil in the front will make it less responsive?

Lighter oil = the shock shaft can move up and down quicker, which means it is good for bumpy tracks where you need the shock to move quicker to support the movement.

I tried some 3hole 1.4 tapered ae pistons and my car just wanted to dump over and over rotate in the corners. I had the taper side down with 32.5 frnt green spring and rear 30 rear white spring, so i went back to the stock pistons and it felt great. Is there something im missing to get the tapered pistons to wrk

lighter oil in the rear allows the back of the car to roll more and faster.

good for tight corners and lower traction

heavier oil will roll less , good for higher grip surfaces ....


rosko

try 35W for front

responsive.... kinda. Sure the shock will go up and down faster. Depending on the pistons even 2.5 weight change can have big changes. For giggles I tried to lighten my spring rates to brown front and black rear because some local fast guys did that. And the buggy was undrivable for me. It pitched all over the place like a SC truck and minor corrections would spin me out. The was not "reponsive" it was twichy as all get out. I find I like the buggy with a little more dampening. And that going up to white rear springs really seems to make it turn in more, but can make it tail happy on lower bite tracks.

I think peope are going heavier with the 1.4's 35/32.5. I have been running 32.5/30 with the same springs, but I run on a low or low/med bite tracks. For higher bite you might need higher oils. The 1.4's feel liek they are in btween the 1.6 and 1.7's in dampening. The new hot ticket seems to be 1.6's in the rear and 1.4s in the front. This give the rear more pack and less dumping, but gives the front end a better feel.

Hey guys,

So I've been working on my esc shelf and battery strap.
This is how it's going to look like.


To make sure it will fit, I'm going to make a 3D print of them, should get the 3D printed parts Wednesday.
and then I have to look where and how I'm going to make several of them.
If you would like a battery strap and shelf, send me a PM

so, I tried the esc on the shelf the last couple weeks. I did not trying it on a super high bite track. I really thought it would be more dramatic on outdoor low bite. Well, I am not sure i noticed anything thing at all. It might be a layout thing too. I dont have a lot of quick transition turns because it is a large 8th scale track. My esc did get hotter though because the body was right on top of it. Yeah, I could vent it, but didnt want to for a test. In short, I prefer the standard config. The downside it, i think I lost my battery strap.......So yeah.... I am sure I put it somewhere "safe"...safe from me.

Shelf looks way to long , looks like you will never get the battery in .

Build a shelf first and see how they work ...

Shelf is 40mm long, I looked at some other shelfs and I'm not much off I think.

An esc is already 30 x 30 and the lrp flow is almost 35 x 35.. + the motor wires.

Martin
try installing the battery first and make sure it will fit under the shelf as you slide the pack in .