No PM's from me, I just cleaned the thread up............ SO NO MORE ABOUT GRAMMAR, OR ILLEGAL IMMIGRANTS, CITIZENSHIP, BLAH BLAH BLAH.......


THANKS

I have been running the B4 since last summer, and following this thread and the B4.1 thread the whole time.

The thing is, I have had more free time lately and have been doing more fine tuning and practicing lately.

On Associated's page it shows the big bores are "updated". Anyone know what was updated?

I think they added the review and the additional part numbers for the machined pistons.

Sounds good


Do the same (practice)most of the time.

Trying out a teamates setup tonight.

Anyone have issues with their 4.2 Slipper coming loose while running?

Mine was set perfectly on Saturday practice in preparation for the race Sunday but after 4 laps in the first qualifier it worked its way loose. I figured the Nylon was too well worn so I swapped it out with the front wheel nuts from my T4.1 (they are new) and it held better but still came a tad loose during the main. I can see the Nylon portion of the nut is about flush with the end of the shaft so my thinking is that I should order the low profile variety so the Nylon sits further into the threads.

These specifically: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=mndt0g



Thoughts?

put the nut on nylon side first to see if it fixes. maybe try a little thread lock also.

I would try taking the spring off and compress it with pliers a couple times.

Get the proper nut. Replace often. I throw a new one on every time I rebuild the diff.

Thanks guys,

Thought about both of those BUT, when it comes to springs you need to be careful because pliers compress them unevenly. The proper way to do it is using a nut and bolt with washers on either end and turn them tight to compress. This way it never compromises the alignment of the spring.

I am going to place some 545 on the threads of the shaft (sparingly) so the entire nut has some sort of pressure throughout to ensure it doesn't back out again

You're thinking too much. Just put the proper nut on and be done with it. Lol.

I did have the proper nut on there and it still turned out on me. The low profile nut will place the Nylon portion of the nut deeper into the threads, thus allowing it to hold more firmly. The addition of Loctite is a bit of added insurance.

No threads at all showing on the end of the shaft? If the nylock portion of the nut is at the end of the shaft...I/one would think that the slipper is not tight enough right from the get go, no? When the instructions tell you that you must compress the spring before using it, there is a reason for that man. Don't worry about what the pliers are going to do (in your mind) to the spring...it has been this way with slipper and diff springs for decades bro. That's what you are supposed to do.

Heed the advice from an expert on nuts!


SHOTS FIRED!

Initially, against my better judgement I went with the 22 and then ended up not feelin' it so I traded it for the 4.2 to get back to what I know and love and the car was NOT as described. So much for rock solid feedback.

Anyhow I assumed he built it correctly but as time has passed I'm realizing he was clueless. From preferring the gear diff over the ball diff, ganked up shock bodies on a car just 2 months old, etc.. Going to do a complete tear down and rebuild it the way an RC10 is supposed to be built and be done with all the little surprises. My T4.1 runs and runs and runs with no issues so I know I can reassemble the buggy to be the same.